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What do you think about a custom tailstock?

Don C Davis

Don C Davis

Joined
Feb 15, 2018
Messages
256
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Location
Canton, GA
Well I have been continuing to work with my Vicmarc 240 ASM I purchased recently, and one issues that I am extremely disappointed in is the shortness of the tailstock quill. For anything past the most short holes I personally drill on the lathe, the 3 +/- inch quill requires me to retract the quill, loosen the tailstock and slide it forward to get the depth I need when boring. I really would like a 6" quill travel--even my Nova has over 4" of travel--this is just something I didn't check out when buying this lathe, and is now on my list of things to look at.

Thus my question, I was wondering what you folks think about having a custom tailstock built by a local machine shop--how doable it is, how practical, and any alternatives you might think of. The 240 has 490 mm of swing over the bed just FYI...
 
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Don, something close to what you're looking for is fairly common on metal spinning lathes, and sometimes an available accessory on conventional metal lathes. Google on "lever action lathe tailstock".

The lever tailstock usually has two modes of operation, normal screw operation and lever action (some only have lever action). The lever provides quicker deep drilling and drill retraction, the screw does the usual slower drilling in harder materials.

By studying the Google images you'll see how your existing tailstock could be modified with a lever and screw assembly. If you only want longer screw travel that should be easy by having a shop make a longer quill and longer screw.
 
Doug, I appreciate the feedback, Vicmarc offers a 'deep drilling tailstock option' but you cannot use the entire range of the quill (7.8" or so) with the standard crank mechanism--which is what I am seeking--thanks for the tip though!
 
Not sure what you want to drill. If accuracy is not critical there are other options.

I have a couple of aircraft drill bits with added handles that will drill 1/2” diameter 14” deep hand held.
I use this for pilot holes in hollow forms where accuracy is not an issue
I have to pull the bit about every inch to clear the chips.

You can get gun drills when connected to an air pressure hose blow the chips out. These clear the chips nicely. Trent Bosch uses these adds a handle and an air connection port.

I also drill a lot of pilot hoes with a 1 1/16 diameter bit 8” long on a x3 taper
This exceed the travel of my tailstock so I just move the tailstock forward and advance the handwheel
Then pull the tailstock back to clear the chips and push in again. I sometime drill just pushing on the tailstock. May not work as well with a #2 taper as the taper may pull out.
 
Don C Davis said:
Doug, I appreciate the feedback, Vicmarc offers a 'deep drilling tailstock option' but you cannot use the entire range of the quill (7.8" or so) with the standard crank mechanism--which is what I am seeking--thanks for the tip though!
Click to expand...


If I'm understanding correctly .... can't you have a shop make a longer screw mechanism? Or, is there some reason why it's not that simple?

OOPS, I didn't see Bill's reply about too short a bearing surface in the tail stock to support a longer quill.

In this case you could have a shop make a quill support mounted on the bed on the front end of the existing tail stock, combine that with a longer quill and screw so your quill travel will be virtually unlimited. Years ago in my shop we built a deal sort of like what I'm suggesting to support gun drills to drill wooden flute blanks.
 
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Don C Davis said:
Well I have been continuing to work with my Vicmarc 240 ASM is purchased recently, and one issues that I am extremely disappointed in is the shortness of the tailstock quill. For anything past the most short holes I personally drill on the lathe, the +/- inch quill requires me to retract the quill, loosen the tailstock and slide it forward to get the depth I need when boring. I really would like a 6" quill travel--even my Nova has over 4" of travel--this is just something I didn't check out when buying this lathe, and is now on my list of things to look at.

Thus my question, I was wondering what you folks think about having a custom tailstock built by a local machine shop--how doable it is, how practical, and any alternatives you might think of. The 240 has 490 mm of swing over the bed just FYI...
Click to expand...
How expensive would be my first question. Probably can't get many shops that are working under $150/hr. The quill won't be easy, but easier for most shops than the body of the tailstock. Welded assembles need to be stress relieved and then precision machined. I bet it will cost way more than your lathe.
 
Don't know if a Powermatic 2442 tailstock will work for you and don't know how long the quill extends but it has an ACME thread instead of regular threads so it feeds faster and won't wear out. Probably won't be hard to find the specs. It's on the new 2442 not the older ones.
 
Thanks for the input folks, I think I am going to pursue a 3520 tailstock, it will fit the bed gap pretty closely and it is just a little taller - swing is 9.64 vs 10 on the 3520, so I think it will be fairly reasonable to mill it down to the 9.64".

It just shouldn't be that expensive to build a tailstock actually--it's pretty straightforward in reality--it'll be interesting to see what a machine shop will quote to build one....
 
You can buy #2 Morse taper.blanks that your machinist can weld.an extension on if needed. That would.reduce the cost.
 
I happened to be drilling with my Oneway 2436 today so checked the amount of travel. 4" and this is one of the huskiest tailstocks in the industry with #3 Morse Taper. I guess I have a lot of other priorities to worry about before spending the amount of money needed to gain 2". Has never been an issue backing out, which you have to do anyway to clear shavings and pushing tailstock forward. Mind you, the Oneway has one of the most secure locking systems on the tailstock available and that makes the job no pain.
 
Mike Brazeau said:
I happened to be drilling with my Oneway 2436 today so checked the amount of travel. 4" and this is one of the huskiest tailstocks in the industry with #3 Morse Taper. I guess I have a lot of other priorities to worry about before spending the amount of money needed to gain 2". Has never been an issue backing out, which you have to do anyway to clear shavings and pushing tailstock forward. Mind you, the Oneway has one of the most secure locking systems on the tailstock available and that makes the job no pain.
Click to expand...

I have to agree with Mike. My Robust tailstock quill has about 4⅝" travel which seems to be more than enough.
 
Don C Davis said:
Thanks for the input folks, I think I am going to pursue a 3520 tailstock, it will fit the bed gap pretty closely and it is just a little taller - swing is 9.64 vs 10 on the 3520, so I think it will be fairly reasonable to mill it down to the 9.64".

It just shouldn't be that expensive to build a tailstock actually--it's pretty straightforward in reality--it'll be interesting to see what a machine shop will quote to build one....
Click to expand...
Do you have a lot of experience precision machining steel Don? Maybe it's that we have differing expectations of what expensive is. I'm starting to wonder if all are talking about the same thing. Are you talking about just the quill, or the entire tailstock from the lathe bed up?
 
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Hey guys, if my Vicmarc had a quill and travel-of 41/2" that would satisfy me--it only has 3" and that is to little IMO..
Richard either way it shouldn't be that crazy--I'm thinking that means under $450 I know I could build one if I had the basic tools in a machine shop--we shall see!
 
The distance from the bed to center of spindle on the PM3520 is 10.250 in. Assuming the 9.64" is an actual measurement, that would require milling .61" off the tailstock. You would be getting dangerously close to the cam lock, if not actually hitting it.
You would be better off to have a longer quill with lever action made that would fit your Vicmarc tailstock.

https://www.woodworkersemporium.com/vicmarc-deep-hole-drilling-tailstock/
 
Not sure what you are drilling that needs th long travel.

If your thinking of a customized tailstock consider a lamp auger.

A lamp auger is used to drill wooden lamp columns trough the tailstock so that the lamp rod can be inserted.
Requires a tailstock with a through hole like the woodfast and a special tail center.
This one is 24”
http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Mer...n=CTGY&Category_Code=lathes-acc-lnghlbrng-hss
 
Thanks hockenbery, I am not really wanting to drill that crazy deep---but I want a quill that has more than 3 inches of travel---we shall see--that lamp auger is interesting....
 
Don,
I use Milwaukee Tools 2 9/16" forstner style. With a 6", 12" and 18" extension, no problem. Not sure what the quill travel is on my Oneway but, to my thinking, a 3" travel is not that big a deal - may add a few minutes. I average about 5 to 6 cranks before I have to pull it out and clear the shavings.
Be sure to grind the threads off the center screw - self feeding is not a good thing.
If the bit wanders off center it's not a big deal - just true up with your hollowing tool.
And never never ever stop the lathe before clearing the tool - it can bind.
 
Thanks John, I typically use Roman Carbide or Colt Maxi Cut forstner bits--I hadn't ever thought about grinding off the threads on the center screw--I'll try it on a few bits--I may check into Milwaukee extensions for the Roman Carbide bits I have, I've been using rogue forstner bit extensions-of not very good quality....
 
Richard, thanks for checking up, I haven't yet, I am going to take the tailstock from the Vicmarc and a powermatic 3520 B I purchased to the machine shop in the next week or two and see if they could modify either to work and suit my goals of a 4 1/2" plus tailstock quill-and travel! I'll post up when I make some progress.
 
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