what do you folks use to mark on a natural log surface

[Don C Davis]

I have finally gotten to rounding some logs into blanks for my lathe. I have templates I place on the logs so I cam determine the proper size for a blank, but I don't know what kind of marker will mark and outline on the log surface. I can tell it definitely isn't a pencil--I've use a 'regular' sharpie and that does OK but doesn't make good mark, that is easily visible when sawing up the blanks.

Appreciate any input/feeedback

 

[Paul M. Kaplowitz]

I use thick chalk I bought at Wal-Mart. I think it is the same big square chalk kids use to draw on side walks

 

[Dan Stromberg]

I've had decent luck with regular crayons. I suspect a grease pencil would work similarly.

 

[Don C Davis]

Good ideas guys--thank you!

 

[hockenbery]

I use wood crayons yellow or orange from the farm supply store.
Leave a couple in the chainsaw case.
They are tougher than the kids crayons which should work

Mostly I trim an end off the log and put it on top of the log and use the diameter as guide for cutting.

 

[Richard Coers]

Chainsaw does a nice job of marking. Use a 16d nail to hold the template, then knock off the corners of the log with a chainsaw. Plenty accurate for me, even if I bump the template with the saw.

 

[john lucas]

I'm with Al. I use a yellow wood crayon. Have no idea where I got it but it's great.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

When cutting a log up for bowl turning blocks I measure the diameter then add a couple inches and lay a small stick to mark the cut and proceed to cut it off then if it will fit on end on the band saw I cut through the pith. The next step is to put the cut face down and pick out the right diameter plywood disk from my stash and position it and hold in p[lace with a nail then cut the corners off on the band saw.

 

[Lamar Wright]

I use a red grease pencil, works very good on logs.

 

[Don C Davis]

Thanks folks, if I wasn't clear I'm marking precut logs for rounding into blanks on the bandsaw! I think I will get some chalk and a couple grease pencils....

 

[hockenbery]

For rounding in the bandsaw I use discs of hardboard.
I pick the center of the bowl - usually on a line above the pith.
If it will be a naturaledge bowl or natural,edge HF I drill a 1.25” hole with a Forster bit for the spur drive.
I anchor the disc to the center point with an awl.

This is a NEbowl,from a crotch

 

[Don C Davis]

that's probably worth a try Hockenberry, I've been leaning to a marker cause I figured I'd cut the template--DOH!

 

[hockenbery]

that's probably worth a try Hockenberry, I've been leaning to a marker cause I figured I'd cut the template--DOH!

The templates are hardboard. I have them in 1” intervals to 10” then 2” intervals to 16”
I try to cut about a 1/4” outside the disc.

They do get trimmed a bit here and there. The still stay close to round.
The 10” disc can always become the new 9” disc.
But they last many years.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

For rounding in the bandsaw I use discs of hardboard.
I pick the center of the bowl - usually on a line above the pith.
If it will be a naturaledge bowl or natural,edge HF I drill a 1.25” hole with a Forster bit for the spur drive.
I anchor the disc to the center point with an awl.

This is a NEbowl,from a crotch

View attachment 27293

Hello Al. I couldn't help noticing your blade. Much thinner than what I have been using. What size are you using, and how many teeth? Thanks in advance for your reply. Aloha

 

[hockenbery]

My favorite blade is a 3/8” 4 tpi skip tooth thickness .025”
The place I deal with gets the Morse blades

That one may be a 1/2 4 TPI which I also use
Our club does a bulk buy and they,all have to be the same blade stock but any length.
They get the 1/2” so I usually get a few blade from their order.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I guess that I've been doing it wrong because I use a Sharpie or a pencil. Then I use a use a chainsaw to get a rough octagon shape. Then I put it on the lathe.