What am I doing wrong

[HarleySteve]

I started with a 8X8x4 block of Cocobolo, after I got the block round using my chuck and the screw, the wood stopped moving, I looked and the screw was just spinning and had ripped a hole in the wood, I then put the wood on a 4 in face plate with 1" screws and it came off the screws. What am I doing wrong?

 

[C Edward Moore]

Use sheet metal screws, #12 or #14, if you can find them. Wood screws don't have an aggressive enough thread to hold the wood.

And maybe, just maybe, you are making cuts that are too aggressive.

Make sure that you are using dust protection - cocobolo will "getcha"!

 

[john lucas]

You probably drilled the hole too large for the worm screw and then your faceplate screws were either too short or too small or both.

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

How many screws were you using with your faceplate? I always drill extra holes in my faceplates so that I have 8 - 12 screws in the wood. I also make sure I have at least 1 inch of screw into the wood. So this means 1.25" - 1.50" screws for me.

When you were using the chuck, did you screw the wood on until it was snug up against the chuck jaws all the way around?

Ed

 

[HarleySteve]

More Info

I am using 1" sheet metal screws, I will go get some longer ones, My faceplate only has 4 holes in it. Should I try to find another with more holes.

 

[Max Taylor]

what am I doing wrong?

undefinedWhy not drill the extra screws yourself? Do you have a drill press?

 

[MichaelMouse]

Going to jump in assuming (yeah,yeah) that you're trying to cut cross-grain and not long grain. Betting you weren't using your tailstock for support and had some bodacious catches? Only thing I know that will cause what you mention when cutting across the grain. Avoid the catches by swinging the gouge in and through in steps, keeping center gouge above centerline for outside work. You can see the principles here, after the initial center flattening. Yes, I know it's the dreaded roughing gouge, but when it comes to an edge, a gouge is a gouge. http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n28/MichaelMouse/?action=view&current=PicturesfromGregs022.flv Watch the swing out, back up, swing out sequence that keeps you from catching under an edge.


You can also pull the gouge, only with a non-bandsawn block, you'll want to start outside and work back in. http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n28/MichaelMouse/?action=view&current=HollowOne001.flv I'm below centerline here, because I'm about to hollow. At or above with the center of the gouge is safer.


Do you have a chuck? If so, get out your holesaws and set up for a hold right away. Watch the depth of the center drill. You can holesaw and waste away the inside with overlapping Forstner stop bores and grab from inside, or you can use the same with that center bit barely stabilizing and waste away for shoulders for an outside grip.

Glad to have a pin chuck here, though pin jaws would certainly handle what you've got there.

If you're long grain, you'll want to do the same, swing the end, back up. Swing the end, back up. Don't be like this dummy who's using an underhand grip for the sake of photography, and it'll be a lot smoother. http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n28/MichaelMouse/?action=view&current=PeelandPare.flv

 

[HarleySteve]

More Info

Why not drill the extra screws yourself? Do you have a drill press?
Nope, doing it with a hand drill and a T square


I did have the tail stock up but, unlike the video's I am attacking from the side of the lathe like you were turning spindles, The video's showed the person starting on the end of the piece and working towards the head stock, would this make a difference?

 

[tdemasi]

#12 OR #14 sheet metal screws will be the ticket for you. And if you are going to drill more holes into your faceplate consider countersinking them on both sides as this will give the fibers that will be forced to the top of the screw somewhere to go and still give you that flat surface against the faceplate.

Tony

 

[MichaelMouse]

I did have the tail stock up but, unlike the video's I am attacking from the side of the lathe like you were turning spindles, The video's showed the person starting on the end of the piece and working towards the head stock, would this make a difference?

Certainly a benefit in safety, since the shavings and any loose bark or such will be ejected in the direction you aren't. But the real important thing is to try and enter the cut at right angles to the direction of the grain, poke in, and stroke and peel down. That way you don't get the edge underneath the wood all at once and put a lot of strain on yourself, the tool, and the wood. Look at how you whittle with a knife and try to do that with the gouge. Leading edge begins the shaving, and then the curved shape of the gouge continues the cut at the same depth until the shaving is parted at as close to 90/90 to the grain as possible. Until you're round, you can only rely on the rest, so an arced stroke is the one that keeps you best in control. The only thing moving is your good hand at the end of the handle. Since you have such a huge mechanical advantage with 1/2 inch of overhang back through 14 of handle, you can make very small corrections to the cutting end with larger, better controlled movements farther out. Once you get a surface close to round, you can then poke in, begin your sweep, and lay the bevel where you've just cut, pushing foreward with the bevel referenced on the surface to govern your depth of cut. I poke in by shifting my body weight, arms locked, because that's when the wood has its best chance to surprise me, but then I transfer control to the arms. I don't even try to use the fingers to control the direction, especially the ones on the covering hand, where I have the least advantage.

Wish the wife were home, I'd have her video some demonstrations for you. Right now I want to get the outside of this piece roughed before I have to start dinner. If I can talk her into it, I'll chuck up a square piece and have her shoot for angles. What gouge are you using, so I can show similar?

Tea break over. I'll check here after dinner if you want a shot or two.

EDIT: Obviously the gage of the screws you use will depend on the size of the holes in your faceplate. The coarser pitch and lack of smooth shank available on metal screws will give you the best bite.

 

[seafoam]

I wonder just how suitable cocobolo is for holding a screw? I've certainly never tried it, but I can imagine that even with the right pilot hole it will be difficult to get a screw into it.

This reference however suggests that it has satisfactory screwing properties.

Never the less, you might like to assess this for yourself. It might be a good idea to put a screw into the wood, then remove it and inspect the inside of the hole to see if it has left a good thread, or has it created a lot of dust.

FWIW my faceplate only has four holes and for most jobs that is perfectly satisfactory. However, given the problems you are having, do be careful and wear a faceshield.

 

[Joe Greiner]

First, as said, sheet metal screws provide better bite.

Second, make sure the pilot hole is no larger than the shank of the screw. Hold the drill bit in front of the screw, and ensure you can see some of the shank beyond.

Third, in end grain especially, don't over-tighten the screws. In end grain, a screw behaves more like a drill than a fastener. It gives me the willies whenever I see one of the TV carpenter gurus make a "connection" into end grain.

Joe