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I bought some bowl blanks from Rockler today and am wondering do you remove the wax before you turn it? If yes what is the best way to remove it?
Dave
Dave
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Waxed Bowl Blank ? newbie
- Thread starter DavePowers
- Start date
bowls
If the blanks are waxed, it is a good bet they are wet. Best thing I have done, is bandsaw off the waxed parts, then either finish turn and accept the results (warps, cracks), or rough turn, and follow rules for drying green wood. If all else fails, send the offending stuff to me (prepaid) and I will deal with it!!!
If the blanks are waxed, it is a good bet they are wet. Best thing I have done, is bandsaw off the waxed parts, then either finish turn and accept the results (warps, cracks), or rough turn, and follow rules for drying green wood. If all else fails, send the offending stuff to me (prepaid) and I will deal with it!!!
I don't know how Rockler processes their waxed bowl blanks, but blanks treated with green wood sealer (a mixture of wax and oil) are not uncommon. Rockler handles that sealing product so it would not be unreasonable to suspect they use it as a sealer for blanks they sell.
Wait until you receive the blanks you've ordered before you decide how to handle them. You may find that you can turn them as delivered, after they're properly stabilized. If you decide you want to just get ride of them, disregard the earlier offer. I'll happily take them off your hands and pay the shipping.
Wait until you receive the blanks you've ordered before you decide how to handle them. You may find that you can turn them as delivered, after they're properly stabilized. If you decide you want to just get ride of them, disregard the earlier offer. I'll happily take them off your hands and pay the shipping.
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DavePowers said:
I've always turned away the way when roughing the wood. I do remove stickes as they seem to ocassionally leave a gummy reside on my tools.
Cheers,
Kurt
You can just turn it right off. No harm, no foul. It even lubricates the tool and gives you a nice clean cut.
Unfortunately, what folks say about the wood likely being still wet applies strongly to rockler blanks. If you finish turn the piece, expect lots of movement. If it is a burl blank, you can turn it quite thin and let it move all over the place for a really cool effect. Just leave enough on the bottom to true it later on so that it will sit (or plan to carve off the extra leaving 3 legs, or don't leave a base at all. Be imaginative).
If you're not going to finish turn it, either sit the blank aside for a few years to finish drying or rough turn it then bag it in a paper bag packed in dry shavings to slow down the drying process and prevent checks (wet shavings will mold, as will a plastic bag, and I'm assuming you don't have sealing wax available). Check it every few months for checks and seal them with CA if needed before then get out of hand. Figure 3 months in a bag for each 1/4" of thickness (give or take).
Have fun,
Dietrich
Unfortunately, what folks say about the wood likely being still wet applies strongly to rockler blanks. If you finish turn the piece, expect lots of movement. If it is a burl blank, you can turn it quite thin and let it move all over the place for a really cool effect. Just leave enough on the bottom to true it later on so that it will sit (or plan to carve off the extra leaving 3 legs, or don't leave a base at all. Be imaginative).
If you're not going to finish turn it, either sit the blank aside for a few years to finish drying or rough turn it then bag it in a paper bag packed in dry shavings to slow down the drying process and prevent checks (wet shavings will mold, as will a plastic bag, and I'm assuming you don't have sealing wax available). Check it every few months for checks and seal them with CA if needed before then get out of hand. Figure 3 months in a bag for each 1/4" of thickness (give or take).
Have fun,
Dietrich
Any exotic wood,and even some domestics, purchased from Rockler that are sealed in wax are green, and must be treated as such. Don't keep them too long untouched, especially the exotics, many will crack just sitting on your shelf even with all the thick wax(damhikt). If you get a blank home and see any degrade in the wax covering at all, rough turn it as quickly as possible or turn it to finish.
Turn them with the wax on as Dietrich suggests and bag them or turn to finish. Getting wax from burl caps can be frustrating especially if you want a natural edge or surface. Very hot water and a bristle brush being careful not to brush to aggressively has worked for me. But I have not tried that many.
Turn them with the wax on as Dietrich suggests and bag them or turn to finish. Getting wax from burl caps can be frustrating especially if you want a natural edge or surface. Very hot water and a bristle brush being careful not to brush to aggressively has worked for me. But I have not tried that many.
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Naptha and mineral spirits work but that's a pretty drastic route. I never clean off wax unless I'm going to keep that surface and it will be exposed.
Dietrich
Dietrich
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
I have to say I am in the habit of collecting exotics and other nice blanks, as you kind of have to get them when available. If I am going to use them NOW, I scrape the wax off the point of contact (for a glue block for instance) with a cabinet scraper. Get down to where you see no more wax and you can test by putting a little water on the area. If it beads up, you have more wax (or an oily wood).
No reason why you can't leave the wax on there (indefinately) until you use the wood.
No reason why you can't leave the wax on there (indefinately) until you use the wood.
Steve Worcester said:
I have a walnut bowl that musta been in wax for 10 years before I did something with it.... Don't ask why I bought a bowl blank ten years before the lathe though