Do any of you use the Vicmarc 3-step dovetail jaws, and if so, what are the pros and cons compared to the standard dovetail jaws that come with the vm100 chuck? Thanks for your input and suggestions.
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Vicmarc 3-step jaws
- Thread starter Ted Evans
- Start date
Ted
I don't use Vicmarc, so I can't exactly answer your question.
But I did buy the similar Nova Jaws, the only set of jaws I would never buy again.
TTFN
Ralph
I don't use Vicmarc, so I can't exactly answer your question.
But I did buy the similar Nova Jaws, the only set of jaws I would never buy again.
TTFN
Ralph
Ted,
I use them on the VM120 chuck and like them a lot. Here are the pros and cons.
For clamping on a bowl tenon:
For clamping into a recess:
Let me know if I've explained this well enough. If not, I'll try to get a picture. But that may take a while.
If you were thinking of buying the body only chuck and the step jaws, don't. Considering the price of these chucks, the extra cost of buying the chuck with the number two jaws is short money. This is especiall true if down the road you decide you need the #2 jaws for the reasons stated above.
When I wanted the step jaws, I went through this exact thought process. Although I had a Stronghold with #2 jaws, I deciced to buy the VM with the #2 jaw and the step jaws. The VM #2 jaws are still in the step jaw box and step jaws are on the chuck. But I have them if I need them.
Good luck,
Frank
I use them on the VM120 chuck and like them a lot. Here are the pros and cons.
For clamping on a bowl tenon:
Pros: Can be used on multiple tenon sizes without changing jaws.
Cons: This isn't really a con, but somthing to keep in mind. When using the smaller diamters of the jaws, make sure the work's profile or curve near the tenon rises sharply enough to clear the jaws. If the curve is too broad (gentle, flat), the work will hit the outer diameters and you won't be able to clamp on the tenon.
Cons: This isn't really a con, but somthing to keep in mind. When using the smaller diamters of the jaws, make sure the work's profile or curve near the tenon rises sharply enough to clear the jaws. If the curve is too broad (gentle, flat), the work will hit the outer diameters and you won't be able to clamp on the tenon.
For clamping into a recess:
Pros: They're good if the recess is matches the external range of the jaws.
Cons: You only have one option to clamp into a recess. If the recess is too small for the external range of the jaws, you may be looking for the number 2's.
Cons: You only have one option to clamp into a recess. If the recess is too small for the external range of the jaws, you may be looking for the number 2's.
Let me know if I've explained this well enough. If not, I'll try to get a picture. But that may take a while.
If you were thinking of buying the body only chuck and the step jaws, don't. Considering the price of these chucks, the extra cost of buying the chuck with the number two jaws is short money. This is especiall true if down the road you decide you need the #2 jaws for the reasons stated above.
When I wanted the step jaws, I went through this exact thought process. Although I had a Stronghold with #2 jaws, I deciced to buy the VM with the #2 jaw and the step jaws. The VM #2 jaws are still in the step jaw box and step jaws are on the chuck. But I have them if I need them.
Good luck,
Frank
Last edited:
Thanks for the info Ralph and Frank. I have decided the standard jaw set will probably work better for my projects.
Ted
Ted
I have the teknatool equivalent and use them for smaller stuff where the foot is small, such as tooth pick holders etc. They are not used a lot but they are a use full extra in the chuck collection