VB36 - Any First Hand Knowledge?

[S. Clark]

I'm interested in the purchase of a VB36 and was wondering if anyone out there has hands on knowledge about it. Stuart Batty told me he loves his and uses it for most all of his turning but I haven't found anyone else who has used one.

What I'm almost sold on getting is the VB with the short bed tail. I'm primarily interested in making bowls and other such vessels of diameters up to 20"-24". What I find attractive with the VB is its' small foot print. My shop space is small and I can't fit long bed machines like a Oneway in.

 

[mkart]

What about a Stubby

Have you looked at the Stubby line. I know several turners who own Stubby lathes and can't say enough good things about them. They fit in a small footprint expand when you need them and incorporate small details other lathes seem to lack. They are also about the same price if looking at the large S1000, 40" swing and you can still use a tailstock! For the record I do not own one. I am however hopeful of some day purchasing the S1000, saving my pennies as we speak.
mkart

 

[Bill Grumbine]

I don't own a VB-36, but I got to turn on one last week for the first time. It is a very nice machine, as one would expect for something in this price range. I roughed out a fairly large piece of walnut on it, approximately 19" in diameter. It handled the wood with ease. I was able to slow it down, although I confess to taking a very heavy cut just to see if I could.

If you are interested primarily in bowls and short spindles, and are looking for a lathe with a small footprint, you might want to consider the Vega 2600 bowl lathe. It weighs 550 lbs, has a 2 HP 3 phase variable speed motor (requires 220v single phase power), a 26" swing, and will do 17" between centers. I have one in my shop and it is a very nice machine. It will also cost you about 1/3 to 1/2 the price of a VB. If you are interested in more info on it, I posted a couple of times back in July and August here on this forum during the buying process. There are pictures and impressions from turning on one owned by a friend of mine, as well as my first bowl on my own.

Bill

 

[S. Clark]

I visited another turner’s studio on Saturday and he has a Stubby. He is quite happy with it and I was impressed too. The only reason that the VB is more attractive to me is that it gets rid of the bed-ways altogether. You see, I’m left handed and consequently I’ve learned the habit of standing directly behind the tail of the bed on the little Delta Midi I now use. This way my left hand can manipulate the long tools when hollowing without having to cross clear across my body. Outboard turning solves this problem but then there is no tail for the initial mounting and roughing procedures. And when turning outboard, why have bed-ways at all? It seems to me that VB found an answer.

I also looked at a turner’s custom lathe on Sunday. He designed and built it himself (with a little help from a machine shop). He was willing to give me the plans at no cost. Basically, what he made was a low tech VB. While I have the skills to make this machine myself, I’m really not interested in spending my time that way. I’d rather be turning wood.

The other alternative I’ve considered is using a more traditional style machine (I like the Oneway) and doing my entire turning process in reverse. In other words, head stock on my right. But this brings me back to the small footprint issue. I don’t know; I’m going round and around on this (pardon the pun).

Obviously, you can see from my considerations that money isn’t the factor. I’ve got about $10k I can spend and it looks like that’ll get me about anything I want once I decide.

I'll check out bill's posts on the Vega. This is a machine I had no knowledge about. Maybe I can get even more confused by throwing another brand into this decision. 😱

 

[john lucas]

S Clark go to www.woodcentral.com and look under the turning forum. Ask for Terry Daniels. He uses one and has sold quit a few. It is strictly a bowl lathe and even though you can get a tailstock as an accesory it not that easy to use. I like the Stubby myself but then I haven't actually owned either. I have the Powermatic 3520 and love it. You can move the headstock down to the end of the bed and use it like a bowl lathe or I can turn spindles on it. It's also easy to mount a bowl between centers for initial shaping and the put the bowl in the chuck, move the headstock and do your final shaping off the end.

 

[Dave Beringer]

Vb36

I would suggest you contact Greg Jensen VB North America Rep. His information is below.

Greg is a great guy. He has done demos for our club and I am sure will provide you with any necessary infomation.

Greg Jensen,
Oaksville Woodworks,
7521 Green Valley Drive
Parma.
OH 44134
gnjensen@cox.net
Phone: 440 570-7596

Good Luck

 

[S. Clark]

I've already received the information pack including a video tape from Greg Jensen. It's a well done, comprehensive pile of information.

Based on what I've read above I just researched Vega on their web site and called them. They're sending me their information on the 2600. This looks like an interesting machine that may fit into this horse race. I'm a little concerend though on the comments that the tail center only comes to within 2" of the drive side. I do want to turn some larger platters.

 

[Andy Hoyt]

We all have our favorites. Mine is Oneway.

While I'm not left handed, I too like to stand at the tailstock end and face the headstock when I'm doing certain things. For me, the answer was Oneway's 1640 with the outboard extension. This gives me more than enough room for a table leg spindle on the main bed. And with the extension I can do a 24" bowl and stare right straight at it.

With space at a premium in your shop you might want to consider Oneways 2016 or 2416 lathes. With such a short bed, you could rough with the tailstock in place, and then completely remove it for the finishing tasks.

They've also got (I think) two different outboard extension options for these two units. 20" OB for the 2016 and 24" OB for the 2416, or a monster 44" for either. It'll cost some hefty coin for all this, but just like when you buy at the other end of the spectrum, you do get what you pay for.

I'm very happy with my arrangement.

Andy Hoyt

 

[Gynia]

The VB is a terrific lathe that is perfect for the task of turning bowls. The only issue about the VB that might give me pause is fact that it's an old lathe which hasn't changed in a loong time.

For a small footprint there is the Oneway 2416. That is a short bed lathe with loads of swing, great power from a company that has been making improvments to the lathes they make all the time.

If you decide you want a bit of bed length you can bolt on a 20" bed extention.

If you decide you want more swing you can add the large outboard extention for turnings that are 36" over the banjo and 48" of swing over the bed.

There are many many Oneway attachments you can get for the Oneway and even more third party attachments you can get.

Good luck with your quest.

Richard

 

[John Trant]

Spindles touch if centers installed

The Vega 2600 tailstock, with no centers attached, comes within about two inches of the headstock spindle. However, I prefer to turn with both a drive center (or chuck) and a live center installed 🙄 (said with a snide grin). In this case, the points of my centers meet, even on my older Vega 2400 which has a greater gap than the 2600. I use the 3-bearing Oneway live center (which is a bit long) and a regular spur center.

Bottom line: this is not a concern.

John

 

[Mark Mandell]

I would strongly suggest that you take an actual test drive on each of the lathes you're considering. I know the VB headstock has a small footprint, but once you add the tailstock you've got a real space issue on your hands. Yes, I know about the small-version tailstock, but if you're looking for significant added stability, I rather doubt its ability to substitute for the full size tailstock when cutting larger sized piece of wood. You'll also have to figure out where and how to store all that iron (Tailstock, beam, and structure) when you're not using it. The VB is a fine machine, but I passed it by because I simply did not have the space in my basement shop, and the add-on tailstocks quickly took the price over $8,000 plus freight.

I turn on a "short-bed" Stubby 1000. I don't know which Stubby you saw, but I can tell you that I am continually working on a piece from the full 180* from the left side clear around to the right. All hollowing is done straight in from the end of my lathe. Functional bowl clearance is 40" in diameter by about 10" deep when using a chuck; an inch or two more depth can be had using a faceplate mount. The articulating beds allow solid access to the workpiece even out at the 40+" diameter point, yet I can still turn a 36" long by 19 1/2" diameter spindle-oriented piece with the basic configuration. My lathe uses a 3 hp TEFC ac motor and Eurotherm drive which provides excellant torque on the low end of the VS range. A good motor, but not one designed for lots of slow speed (less than 100 rpm) work so it will tend to get warm because the cooling fan is also running that slow. I therefore use a small muffin fan on the wall to keep the motor cool when I use the lathe at very slow rpm for sanding and finish application. I was able to stall the spindle while turning a 28" bowl using a Glaser 3/4" gouge, but then I had the tension on the poly-v drive belt a bit loose for safety.

Since the 1000s are basically now made to order, and you're left-handed, you can inquire about having Omega cut the spindle threads for the left so you can run the lathe clockwise without unscrewing your chucks. You will, however, have to get adapters and faceplates cut with lefthand threads.

Mark Mandell

 

[Bill Grumbine]

I've already received the information pack including a video tape from Greg Jensen. It's a well done, comprehensive pile of information.

Based on what I've read above I just researched Vega on their web site and called them. They're sending me their information on the 2600. This looks like an interesting machine that may fit into this horse race. I'm a little concerend though on the comments that the tail center only comes to within 2" of the drive side. I do want to turn some larger platters.

This is actually an error on my part since I did not get a part. 😉 Vega supplies a live center extender, so if I need it (and I already have it) I can stick it on and the centers meet.

Bill

 

[S. Clark]

Thanks for clarifying this point John. I'm looking forward to receiving the information package from Vega.

 

[Dave Beringer]

Lathes

Yes we all have our favorites. Mine is Oneway I own a 2436 and have nothing but great things to say about it and Oneway. If I were on a more of a fixed budget I guess I would certainly include in the search the Powermatic 3520a or b. One big thing I would be conscious of is the installed based for a manufacture in the states. Getting help and support can be issues for foreign products. Some of the smaller vendors seem to pull out of Us markets from time to time and I question where that leaves their installed base.

 

[hockenbery]

Consider the Oneway 2416. I have the 2436 with the outboard and love it.
You could add the extension to the bed for longer pieces. or the outboard bed.

Also this is an easy lathe to turn on back side, using it as a lefthanded long bed lathe. I used to stand over there to turn beads on bowls when I could only turn them that way. The contols can be mounted either side. The only awkward thing I can think of would be that the spindle lock would be on the other side of the headstock and you would have top reach over.

I have turned once on a VB36 and it seems like a fine machine. You can get a bed and tailstock.

If I remember correctly, the vb36 lacks the through hole on the headstock and does not take the morse taper drive centers or the common vaccumm fittings.
I start most pieces between centers and use a vacuum chuck for some work. The VB36 is capable of this work with more expensive options.

One thing to note is that most turners eventually become ambidextrous.

happy Turning,
Al

 

[Bob Hadley]

This sure is a juicy thread.

It is sort of like ease-dropping on millionaires discussing what super-models they are dating.

"Let’s see, Heidi Klum or Carmen Electra?"

I can’t speak for others, but it’s interesting to glimpse the life beyond my lowly 1642.

Please, keep it up.

BH

 

[S. Clark]

Determining Space...

I finished construction of my new, smaller, workbench and I spent Sunday rearranging my shop space to make room for the new machine. I tried about three different configurations. If I could only toss out the kid’s bicycles (well, mine too) I’d have it made. Anyhow, using chalk I marked the floor to see where/how I can make this work. I tried marking out the footprints for:

1) VB36
2) OneWay 2416
3) Stubby 1000

And I’m waiting for the sales propaganda from Vega before I see how that one would fit. All these machines have their advantages and disadvantages. Mmmm…??? 😕

 

[Jim Bremer]

You will love it.

I have owned a VB36 for over four years and it performs beautifully for bowl turning. I use the face plate only, no tail-stock. I turn up to 24 inch pieces (see my thread on the tips and techniques section "turning a thin platter and you can see an example. You can turn in both directions comfortably and I think it's more comfortable than leaning over a beam. I stand on a four inch platform and recommend that you consider this as this is a one size fits all machine. I'm 5'9" and the machine is too high for me, I got tendonidous when I first used it, but the height adjustment fixed that. My VB sits on a raised platform and has two six by six micro-lam beams running under the plywood floor. The machine is bolted to the beams through the floor. No vibration here. I'd be glad to answer any questions. See the picture attached of my set-up.

 

[S. Clark]

Thanks for the info Jim. Tell me though, what’s with the curtains?

I’m 6’1†and my current lathe has been raised to 43†which works well for me. The VB is available at 43†or 45†so I’d get the shorter. I’m interested in a tailstock for two reasons. 1st, I favor working with irregular chunks of wood and I want to do this on a little larger scale. I pin them between centers until I find an orientation I like then rough the outside and a mount spigot for chucking. 2nd is the safety factor for such oddly balance blanks. I frequently keep the tailstock on after reversing until I refine the shape and have better balance. I figure it is good to have for boring processes too. I have a particular series of natural exterior pieces that require the tailstock in the turning process. And again I desire to do these pieces on a scale beyond the 10†swing of my current little machine.

I like your idea of bolting it to the beams under your raised floor. In my case I’ll probably bolt it to the concrete once I’m satisfied with the layout in my workspace. I rearranged a little again last night and found a more comfortable alignment with my benches. Consequently I discovered another alternative to positioning the new machine.

I received the brochures from Vega yesterday but was disappointed. It didn’t include one of the most basic pieces of information; the footprint dimensions! 🙁 It’s an interesting design. Rather minimalist, which actually fits my caricature believe it or not. I’m wondering about the convenience of the controls? The picture shows a crank on a long rode protruding from under the bed. Is this part of the tool rest lockdown? 😕 It doesn’t look to have a spindle lock or indexing either. I guess I’ll call them and inquire farther.

 

[Jeff Jilg]

About curtains - if you don't put plastic or curtains around your turning area you'll spend an inordinate amount of time cleaning up shavings. The curtains keep the flying shavings from flying too far, and from landing on shelves and equipment.

 

[Mark Mandell]

Before you bolt any lathe to the floor, I strongly suggest that you contact the manufacturer for an "ok". While I've seen it debated, there remains an issue with bolt-downs as damaging the bearings in wood lathes (as opposed to other machinery which is routinely fixed to floors). I have a single bolt in one corner of my Stubby to prevent it from dancing with a seriously unbalanced workpiece, but the nut is not run down tight. Again, get a definitive answer from the people who make (rather than just sell) the lathe you buy.

Mark

 

[underdog]

Why would bolting a machine to the floor damage the bearings? 😕

As long as you;

1) make sure it's level

2) make sure you don't warp it when you bolt it down,

I don't see why it would damage bearings.

 

[Bill Grumbine]

Why would bolting a machine to the floor damage the bearings? 😕

Every chain has to have a weak link. In the case of the lathe, the weakest link is its attachment to the earth. If you are running it too fast with too large a piece of wood on it, the lathe is going to tell you so by starting to move around - vibrate, walk, hop, etc. Once it is bolted to the floor, you have changed the weak link to something else, and that something else will probably manifest itself in a catastrophic way. The worst part of it is, you are never really sure what that weak link is, and when it is going to fail. It could be something as benign as the bearings failing prematurely as Mark describes, or it could be more along the lines of sudden failure when you discover that you really shouldn't have put that 100 lb piece on the lathe at 700 rpm. Of course, if that is the case, it probably won't hurt for long.

This is a free country and we can do what we want in a lot of ways, but I am a very strong advocate from a safety point of view of giving the lathe room to move and not bolting it down. There are those who will disagree, and with my luck, one of the most vocal ones will probably show up to do so in a most disagreeable way.

Bill

 

[S. Clark]

I saw a setup where the feet of a Stuby were confind with blocks cut to surround them. These blocks were bolted to the floor but the machine's feet were not actualy attached to the floor. This prevented the machine from walking away and yet, I guess, avoided what is described above.

I like the curtain idea. My current setup has most of the shavings cascading down the wall behind me. But this new mchine will be in an entirely different orientation. I do spend more time sweeping and vacuuming than I'd like.

 

[Mark Mandell]

Jim,

I'm told it has to do with vibration which, no matter how smooth-running the lathe, is always present during cutting and will transmit into the bearings causing excessive wear. The exact "why" (and implied "how") of your question would have to be asnwered by an ME which I ain't. Last person to "confirm" this was Ellsworth when one of the students in a class I took asked about bolting down his Poolewoods. Interesting though that lathes like Ray Key's bowl lathe MUST be bolted to the floor.

Mark

 

[Jim Bremer]

Belt drive and controls

S.,
The little crank tightens the belt. (see photo)
The control box has a magnetic backing so you can attach it anywhere on the machine. (see photo)
See my thread on the main forum called "Tired of fling wood chips". This explains the curtains.

Also, I'd suggest getting a curved tool rest. A straight one comes with the machine.

Good Luck,
Jim

 

[Jim Bremer]

Two more things

This is a heavy machine. 600 lb. if I recall. You might want to think about how you are going to get it from point A to point B. This might be harder than anything you do on the lathe. No amount of guys will be able to pick this thing up and put it in place. You will need some equipment.

Regarding the discussion about mounting to the floor, use common sense. Don't bolt a tree trunk to the face plate on your first project. Start small and get a sense of the speeds and settings. Always start slow if you are turning a burl or irregular shaped object.

If you lack patience and common sense I wouldn't buy this machine, but then again I wouldn't recommend turning either.

 

[S. Clark]

Jim, I have so much common sense that at times it becomes a liability. Thanks for the tips and the pictures. I have access to a lot of moving equipment. I’ve experience moving everything from furniture to small buildings onto new foundations so I expect to be able to handle this. The thing is, I’m trying to plan ahead so I don’t have to move it more than once. But over planning can become a liability too.

 

[gnjensen]

Vb 36

I was just made awhare of the thread about the VB. I would like to clear up some issues that were discussed.

The VB does have a hollow spindle and can use a vacuum chuck. The spindle is bored to accept a #3mt drive spur. When using a thread adaptor on the mandrel for a chuck the adaptor is bored for a #2MT. The tails stock is #3MT.

It is recomended to bolt the VB lathe to the floor. The plain bearings are designed to take very large loads. I can not comment about other machines and the disireability to bolt them to the floor.

Greg Jensen
North American Rep for VB Manufacturing

 

[S. Clark]

Thanks for the Advise

I just wanted to thank everyone who offered advise. I've reviewed all this information and have learned quite a bit. I've looked over some good products adn in the end I placed an order for the VB. This is the machine I was interested in at the start and, while many of the other products mentioned are quite nice, the VB is still the one I want.

It will be at least a couple weeks, if not longer, but once I have the new unit set up I'll give a firsthand report.

Thanks to all - Scott