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Vacuum Chucking

Joined
Dec 3, 2006
Messages
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Location
Kansas
I have the opportunity to buy a vacuum chucking setup at a reasonable price. I have no experience at all with using this type of chucking method and was wondering if anyone out there can give me recommendations and let me know whether this type of chucking is good, hard to use, not worth it or any other information that might be useful to me to help with the decision to buy or not to buy the vacuum system. It is a Gast vacuum and One Way Drum Chucks. Ruth
 
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I dont know about that set up iuse a vacume cleaner ,I find useing the vac chucking for finishing the bottom of bowls is very good I have also got a no2 taper adaption ofr the tailstock so i can take the bowl complete with chuck of the headstock and put it on the tailstock to centre it onto the vacuum faceplate set the vac going the release the chuck ,remove the chuck then bring the tailstock up to suport the work.
 
If it is a good price, I would go for it. Vacuum chucking is popular because it is easy and convenient to use. Vacuum chucking is primarily for reverse chucking bowls and platters in order to finish the bottom exterior and foot. It can also be used to mount a bowl after the tenon or recess has been turned away for some final touch-up turning and sanding.

If the system that you are buying doesn't already have an in-line filter, needle valve (for bleed air), small bleed air filter, vacuum gauge, and two ball valves (one for blocking the flow to the pump and the other for opening the system to atmospheric pressure) then those are things that you need to make the best use of the vacuum system.
 
Love my vacuum chuck. It just makes it so easy to reverse turn bowls and platters. I also use it to re-turn the tenon on twice turned bowls because I can easily adjust the center if the rim moves too much. It's also very handy if a customer brings a bowl back for refinishing or to repair some damage. Often the mounting traces are gone from these bowls but it just takes a little wiggling to get it centered on the vacuum chuck and then I can hold it for either hand sanding or power sanding.
 
The vacuum chuck is not just for reverse turning bowls! I use mine for boxes, bottles, vases and much more. It also very convenient for holding objects for finishing with fast-drying spray lacquer; just put a plastic bag over the chuck to protect it and punch a hole in the bag to let air through. To get the most benefit from the vacuum chuck system, you need to install it in such a way that you can have it running in less than a minute. If you have to drag equipment out of a closet, run hoses and make electrical connections every time you use it, you will use it rarely. My system is plumbed with copper tubing from the pump in a separate room to the gauge and valve cluster just above the headstock of the lathe. The pump is controlled by a wireless remote switch at the lathe.

Dennis
 
I love mine! I bought an expensive pump that can run all day, and made up the money by making up my own vacuum chucks using boxwood, MDF and resin to seal it all up. The first three chucks paid for the entire system, and I have made many more job-specific chucks since then. I use them for all sorts of things, not just bottoming off bowls.

I use a tap that suits my spindle thread to make the screw-on part and o-rings and camping mattress foam as my soft sealant material. Each chuck takes about an hour to make, plus a bit of thought at the front end, plus a 24 hour curing time for the resin, and then you are in business.

An easy set-up helps a lot, mine is a push-pull pipe fitting system with an outboard screw on adaptor (replaces the lathe handle) so it takes about 20 seconds to change from standard chucking to vac chucking.

Wonderful thing to have!
 
I bought a nice 10 CFM pump off of eBay for about $150 , not that you have to go that hog-wild. But a good pump and well home made chucks
http://turningwood.com/mdfchucks.htm
will do what you need.
 
"Going VAC....." - some specific hints and recommendations

Ruth:

I always recommend vacuum chucking as a very convenient and efficient method of work holding that minimizes potential secondary damage to variously sized and shaped turned pieces.

I usually begin my talk on vacuum chucking with the statement, "Once you go VAC, you'll never go back!" I rarely do jam-chucking any more, or use my "Cole" or "Jumbo" jaws on my scroll chucks for "rim-grabbing" when reverse chucking bowls to turn-off the tenon and finish the foot; and as others have already said, a vacuum system can be used for a wide range of other work holding possibilities.

A bit about the system itself: The Gast vacuum pumps that are rotary vane pumps are the type you should be checking for - stay away from membrane pumps, piston pumps, or oil-lubricated pumps if possible. The "23" series pumps are the ones that are used most often - the Model 0523, having an airflow rating of about 5 cubic feet per minute, would be a desirable flow rating and the 0523 is the pump most often sold by vendors like Craft Supplies and Packard that goes along with vacuum chucking systems they sell as a "package". Although some turners have successfully used pumps with lower air flow ratings, 5 cfm should work well for all but the most demanding applications. (e.g. Gast Models 0823 and 1023 have higher flow rates of 8 and 10 cfm, respectively). You may want to check that the pump with the system you are considering buying is in the '23' series, and is not a '22' series pump which has a MUCH lower flow rate. Depending on elevation, all of these pumps can generate vacuum in the range of 20 to 26 inches of mercury (in. Hg), but the flow rating gives an idea of the "strength" of the vacuum being pulled and more importantly, the vacuum being maintained in use. The manifold, vacuum gauge, and air leak valve in it allow you to adjust the level of vacuum your system develops. I usually have mine set at about 20 in. Hg when at stable vacuum in a closed system, which works well for all three sizes of chucks I have. There will inevitably be some leakage of air into the system between fittings and through the wood itself (see below), so don't expect a perfectly leak free system; it is not needed with a pump of adequate air flow rating.

I have used three Oneway vacuum chucks (3.5", 5.5" [most often], and 8") for several (many?) years, and they are quality items. Just be sure you have the appropriately-sized spindle adapters for your lathe. Making home-made vacuum chucks is also quite easy, and there are a number of sites on the Internet that show how to do this. I found that a small amount of silicone caulking around the adapters reduces air leakage (and more importantly dust contamination) into the system by creating "mini gaskets' where needed. Quite a simple solution if you do have leaks around the drums or with the spindle adapters.

You should use heavy walled rubber or other plastic tubing to connect the pump to the manifold and air leak (vacuum adjustment) valve, as well as between the manifold and the rotary vacuum adapter on your lathe. Using tubing with walls that are too thin can result in tube collapse and loss of vacuum holding. Similar to the recommendation by Bill, in my system I included an in-line particle filter between the lathe and the manifold to protect the manifold and (more importantly) the vacuum pump from wood dust and other particles that will infiltrate through your system if given the chance by being sucked into the system, or even through more porous woods. You want to minimize contamination getting into the pump which can shorten vane life.

One final recommendation I have that you should really heed is that you never want to apply liquid finishes to turned wooden pieces while it is being held in a vacuum chuck! The vacuum will literally pull the finish thorough the wood, creating a real mess inside the vacuum chuck, and potentially into the lathe spindle bore, etc. as well. Novice vacuum-chuckers do this only once, which is a real lesson in understanding the porosity of wood being held by a vacuum! Shellac, oil, lacquer, poly - it doesn't matter. Liquids WILL pass through wood being held under vacuum! Please learn from my experience, and don't even try this!

I hope these comments have helped you a bit to get a better feel for what you should be looking for in a vacuum chucking system. If you have additional specific questions about set-up or use, let us know!

Rob Wallace
 
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When I started setting up my first vacuum system, I found that there was a lot of good, misleading and sometimes incorrect informtion out there on the internet. My engineering background led me to publish two articles in the AW, 'Understanding-and improving- Vacuum Chucking Systems" vol 26 no.1, April 2011 and "Compliant Vacuum Chucking System" Vol 27, No 3, June 2012. I have learned quite a few things about these systems in the process of developing these articles with more to come.
There are three types of vacuum pumps commonly used with vacuum chucking; diaphram, piston and rotary vane. I have used all three with good results. My diaphram pump (~3.5 CFM) is currently my main pump being used for over three years with no problems. I would recommend against a rotary vane pump using oil, they can get quite messy from the oil out of the exhaust.
The capacity of your vacuum system is controlled more by the plumbing than the flow rate of the pump itself. The size of the tubing, fittings, lengths, bore size of the vacuum adapter, etc. have more impact than the pump's capacity.
With the typical systems I have seen, a pump size over 3.5 to 4 CFM is wasted money. The plumbing restrictions prevent the usage of anything larger. Granted, really big tubing, fittings, etc. would improve the performance but it is not justified. I am working on another article that explains these intractions so that you can design your system intelligenty not just guessing. I will also show you how to measure the system performance, both vacuum levels and flow rates using commonly available cheap materials. This will allow you to measure performance before and after modifications to quantify any improvements. Yes, I know that a lot of people want to just build it and use it. Yet some of us like to know what is really going on.
Vacuum systems can do much much more than just turning off the bottom of a turning. Look at my article in the June 2012 AW to see how to mount just about anything. I show you how to remove the barriers of voids, rough surfaces, damage due to mounting, etc.
My vacuum system is one of the best woodturning investments I have made. It is much more versitle than most people think.

John Giem
 
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I look forward to your next article

John,

I've enjoyed and learned a lot from each of your articles. I look forward to the next one. I'm one of those who wants to understand why something works almost as much as I want to know what works. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the rest of us.
 
John,

I've enjoyed and learned a lot from each of your articles. I look forward to the next one. I'm one of those who wants to understand why something works almost as much as I want to know what works. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the rest of us.

By knowing why something works or why you do it, then you may also know how to apply that skill in differing situations. For me, it is frustrating to see someone with a new task and not be able to recognize that this problem is the same as the last one as seen from a different view. By knowing the 'whys' the it is easier to recognize the problem when presented differently. When ever I see a new technique or tool, I also ask myself why is it that way? If I cannot answer the why, then I go find out. Then, I can use the new technique or tool in a lot of other configurations or situations, sometimes in ways it has never been done before.

John
 
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