Using stopper mandrel in a chuck?

[Jamie Straw]

Ruth Niles has her stopper mandrels on sale right now, so I'm going to get a second one. She has one that is thicker between the taper and the tap so that it can be used in a chuck. Seems handy, but I'm wondering if there are any hidden problems with chucking up a piece of steel. Here's the catalog picture:

 

[AlanZ]

I much prefer using a drawbar to secure mandrels.
For those unfamiliar with drawbars, take a look at this video.

I hope this helps.

View: https://youtu.be/Sqg6CIrWk2k

 

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Jamie you do need the right jaws for it, not all jaws will be able to hold it securely, like the # 2 jaws would not be able to hold it securely, but the step jaws could hold it well.

Other than that, I find it strains the wood chuck to hold smooth round metal pieces so it does not slip, but yes you can hold it, I’d rather use the MT.

 

[Jamie Straw]

Hmmm, tried to upload another picture, did not work. Here it is mounted in a chuck:

I much prefer using a drawbar to secure mandrels.
For those unfamiliar with drawbars, take a look at this video.

I hope this helps.

View: https://youtu.be/Sqg6CIrWk2k

Yes, that's what I've always done, just wondering about the chuck idea. Thanks.

 

[Jamie Straw]

Jamie you do need the right jaws for it, not all jaws will be able to hold it securely, like the # 2 jaws would not be able to hold it securely, but the step jaws could hold it well.

Other than that, I find it strains the wood chuck to hold smooth round metal pieces so it does not slip, but yes you can hold it, I’d rather use the MT.

Don't have step jaws (yet). From Ruth's picture it looks like the base jaws hold it (aren't those#2 jaws, but they aren't contacting the mandrel)? I wouldn't want to do anything that would wear on my chuck.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Use the Morse taper socket ... with a drawbar as Alan Zenreich says. You will get high precision repeatable alignment. When using a chuck, you have the accumulation of several error sources (threads, scroll gear, and jaws. While the errors are usually small, repeatability isn't good if you take the stopper mandrel out of the chuck or if you remove and reinstall the chuck on the lathe.

 

[hockenbery]

Another vote for Morse taper ( with draw bar if you need it)
I much prefer using Morse taper mounts.
I have several chucks I can grip with Chuck jaws and use them if the chuck is on the lathe and I'm in a hurry. But usually I store the chuck off the lathe when not in use so popping a Morse taper in and out is quicker than mounting the chuck and gripping the mandrel.

 

[AlanZ]

The chuck approach is great for those that cannot use a drawbar, for example, lathes with a solid spindle.

 

[Fred Belknap]

Jamie it might not work on all chucks and jaws. I think the #2 jaws on my talon will on go down to around 1 5/8". I have pen jaws that might hold but I agree that M2 taper would be better.

 

[John King]

Jamie - Use the Morse taper with draw bar. You can easily make a draw bar with some all thread rod of appropriate length and threads, wing nut and washer. Cheap and materials readily available at big box stores (Home Depot, Lowe's and similar).

I would never attempt to hold a cylindrical metal mandrel in four jaw scroll chuck. Metal on metal not a good idea. - John

PS - Just watched video posted by AlanZ. Wing nut can be used instead of wooden handle. Screw draw bar into mandrel. Tighten wing nut to put pressure on mandrel. - J

 

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Don't have step jaws (yet). From Ruth's picture it looks like the base jaws hold it (aren't those#2 jaws, but they aren't contacting the mandrel)? I wouldn't want to do anything that would wear on my chuck.

If it was a metal lathe chuck you could hold that very well, as it is made to hold metal pieces, not so good with a wood chuck.

But as I said in my earlier post, I would use the MT rather than the chuck to hold it, but yes you can hold it with your chuck if you have the right jaws.

I should have added the jaws pictures, as it will show why the # 2 or # 3, and also # 4, 5, or 6 jaws are not holding with the jaws themselves, but rather close with the narrow base against the mandrel, and so it is not a good and solid hold.



The step jaws do not have that inner part of the jaws sticking out and so the jaws themselves will hold the mandrel.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Jamie it might not work on all chucks and jaws. I think the #2 jaws on my talon will on go down to around 1 5/8". I have pen jaws that might hold but I agree that M2 taper would be better.

If you must use a chuck then grip the mandrel the same way that you would grip a woodworm screw.

 

[Jamie Straw]

OK, I'll stick with my use of mandrel with draw bar (Have been using this technique for a long time, no need to further educate me about draw bars.😀)

 

[Pete Blair]

Jamie, I note that Ruth does sell a mandrel meant to be held in a chuck #2SS-155. Personally I would only hold it a chuck if the jaws are smooth, just because steel on steel might eventually flatten the ribs of other types.