Using Kilz

[Ron Rutter]

Has anyone ever used Kilz to coat blanks? It is an oil based primer, sealer, stain blocker that is also used to paint over mould & supposedly restricts mould growth. Ron.

 

[MichaelMouse]

Oil and water. Probably wouldn't stick worth a tinker's.

Check your water-based acrylic primers for mildewcides. Surely there must be some. They'd stick better.

 

[Richard Coers]

Kilz built there product line on shellac, but they have many new products now. They also have a pretty extesive water based product line as well. I am really sold on the bathroom white. We used to have a mildew problem in the one bathroom, but no more. I imagine it is more expensive than green wood sealer, but would be worth the investigation.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Has anyone ever used Kilz to coat blanks? It is an oil based primer, sealer, stain blocker that is also used to paint over mould & supposedly restricts mould growth. Ron.

I believe that the Kilz primer that you are referring to is shellac with some white pigment rather than an oil based primer since shellac is able to do a better job in its intended purpose of stopping bleed through from resins and water soluble stains than oil based primers.

I prefer to use Anchorseal on end grain for air drying turning wood since I can get it for $9 per gallon and its purpose is to slow down moisture loss through end grain when air drying wood.

I would be concerned that a "moisture sealing" primer would excessively retard moisture loss.

 

[Ron Rutter]

Bill. Kilz is oil based. They also have a water based that provides a mildew resistant finish. Anchorseal not available here. It is interesting that Anchorseal is a 45- 50% petroleum wax water based emulsion! They even have a winterized version with 5% Propylene Glycol.
My problem is a pile of west coast maple in chunks averaging a cubic foot. It is showing cracks, & when 2 pieces are together white mold is forming-quickly! A friend told me today that setting it out in the sun for a while will solve the problem. It is the high sugar content in maple that is a good part of the problem & setting it out allows the surface to dry & form a skin.
Am I correct to assume that any paint could be used to seal the ends of a log (or chunk)?

Thanks guys. Ron.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Bill. Kilz is oil based. They also have a water based that provides a mildew resistant finish. Anchorseal not available here. It is interesting that Anchorseal is a 45- 50% petroleum wax water based emulsion! They even have a winterized version with 5% Propylene Glycol.
My problem is a pile of west coast maple in chunks averaging a cubic foot. It is showing cracks, & when 2 pieces are together white mold is forming-quickly! A friend told me today that setting it out in the sun for a while will solve the problem. It is the high sugar content in maple that is a good part of the problem & setting it out allows the surface to dry & form a skin.
Am I correct to assume that any paint could be used to seal the ends of a log (or chunk)?

Thanks guys. Ron.

Anchorseal is basically an emulsion of paraffin and water. Our woodturning club buys it in 55-gallon drums which costs about $500 including freight. Club members then pay for the amount that they want which works out to about $9 per gallon.

The basic idea of sealing the end grain is not to stop moisture loss but to slow it in order to minimize splitting and other drying problems. I doubt that "any old paint" would be satisfactory, but water based latex paint should work better than most other types of paint. My guess is than any oil based paint is not going to adhere to wet green wood for very long. Setting wood out in full sun is not the best thing to do (at least it is not here in Texas) because it would lead to rather severe splitting. Mildew on the outside surface of local types of wood is not a problem so I do not get concerned about it.

 

[MichaelMouse]

I believe that the Kilz primer that you are referring to is shellac with some white pigment rather than an oil based primer since shellac is able to do a better job in its intended purpose of stopping bleed through from resins and water soluble stains than oil based primers.

Helps to red the original request where oil-based Kilz was specified.

I think you might be thinking of the Zinsser product, which includes a shellac-based primer for interior woodwork. http://www.drillspot.com/products/6...ased_shellac_resin_primer_sealer_stain_killer An excellent product under either oil or water based paint, providing a seal and a bit of pigment to hid the grain.

http://www.masterchem.com/masterchem/v/index.jsp?vgnextoid=c05f90033f9ff110VgnVCM1000008a05d103RCRD Shows that a couple of water-based options are available in the Kilz line, so using them against mildew - the white is generally very shallow - and tacking cardboard over the end of the pieces to slow moisture loss is a great stopgap.

OR - get a bigass blender, some non-sudsing surfactant and some paraffin and have at it. 😀

Truth be told, painting with a PEG solution would keep the endgrain expanded and pretty free from checks, too. Think that's now more expensive than the Anchorseal types.

 

[john lucas]

I have had my best luck saving blanks that size by using canning wax. It probably doesn't let the end grain "breath" like end grain sealer but it works for me. I simply melt it in a used electric skillet and then dip the ends in the wax. I've never compared cost. I buy 3 or 4 bars when I need more and melt them. Probably at a cost per gallon it's more expensive. I have both. I coat large logs with endgrain sealer. The smaller ones with wax. The wax logs don't check for months. The endgrain sealed logs start to check after just 2 or 3. The smaller blocks that I cut up into bowl blanks and seal all the surfaces with wax will last for a year or more.

 

[George Clark]

Anchorseal not available here.
Ron.

I'm not sure where "here" is, but I order Anchorseal from Packard Woodworks.

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Mer...de=packard&Product_Code=157201&Category_Code=

George

 

[waltben]

Don't know about using it for blanks, but I use the oil based version (there are three different kinds - latex, oil and shellac) as a sanding sealer/filler for wood that's going to be painted. It's a lot less expensive and works really well.

I use the end grain sealer that I pick up at symposiums on sale for blanks. Last time I got some it was $7 a gallon (tax but no shipping) and I've still two left. Next time I've a wet blank I'll try some Kilz and see how it works.

 

[Ron Rutter]

George. The here is in Port Alberni on Vancouver Island.
Interesting in that I coated a blank with Kilz ( have 1/2 gal) & placed a smaller blank on it. In one day there was mould on the treated one!
Fairly humid here for most of the year!!
This maple was over 4' in diameter & had been topped at one time so the main trunk was only 14-16' high, then smaller stuff like the hair on a dogs back. It was cut off in sections 12- 15" high so lots of exposed end grain! In any case I have lots so will try various suggestions & hope for the best.

Thanks everyone. Ron.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Helps to red the original request where oil-based Kilz was specified.

I think you might be thinking of the Zinsser product, which includes a shellac-based primer for interior woodwork. http://www.drillspot.com/products/6...ased_shellac_resin_primer_sealer_stain_killer An excellent product under either oil or water based paint, providing a seal and a bit of pigment to hid the grain.

http://www.masterchem.com/masterchem/v/index.jsp?vgnextoid=c05f90033f9ff110VgnVCM1000008a05d103RCRD Shows that a couple of water-based options are available in the Kilz line, so using them against mildew - the white is generally very shallow - and tacking cardboard over the end of the pieces to slow moisture loss is a great stopgap.

OR - get a bigass blender, some non-sudsing surfactant and some paraffin and have at it. 😀

Truth be told, painting with a PEG solution would keep the endgrain expanded and pretty free from checks, too. Think that's now more expensive than the Anchorseal types.

I guess that I deserved the dig, but yes I did read the original post and, yes, a few hours after posting the message, I was getting some lacquer from the cabinet where I keep my paint, varnishes, and thinners stored and saw that it was indeed Zinsser Bullseye that I was thinking about. I did have a can of Kilz Upshot also, but never used it when I discovered that it was not the product that I intended to use on a remodeling job. I am sure that the Kilz is good, but I like to stay with the products that I like (unless I stop liking them).

Maybe that is a way to get rid of the two "wheels" of PEG that has been sitting around for several years. I have no intention of using them on a turning and have not even been able to give the stuff away to any of the other club members. Maybe I could pass it off as an end grain sealer for freshly cut green wood (PEG is worse than useless on wood that has already partially dried. At least that would be a semi-legitimate use for the stuff.

 

[MichaelMouse]

Yeah Bill, it's that old business they teach us in class. Pay attention, and acknowledge the chief complaint. Doesn't mean you should remove the pressure from the gushing femoral artery while you listen and agree that their wrist may be broken. They have questions, you answer.

Then tell them that you would like to take care of that leg before you splint the wrist.