I'm a complete newbie to turning wood (just got my first lathe a week ago) and I have an old kiln that was used to fire clay pots. Can this be used to cure blanks?
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Using a kiln to dry wood
- Thread starter Dennis Derringer
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- kiln; curing blanks
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Sure, as long as you don't power it up. 😉
Seriously, forcing drying can be done in any container, but it must be done with minimum heat to allow time for the vapor you're creating to work its way out slowly. If you're going to push for minimum time, you'll need to monitor too. All takes time and effort that could be spent turning. Whether or not it's worth it, you must be the judge. Most of us have found that when wood is available green it's normally in quantities that eat up a whole weekend. More if you're lucky in plunder, or unlucky because the spouse has a long list that weekend. Putting the fresh turns on a shelf and neglecting them for a couple-three months will normally have them ready for final turning. Takes more care and time to final turn than rough, so the supply builds nicely.
Seriously, forcing drying can be done in any container, but it must be done with minimum heat to allow time for the vapor you're creating to work its way out slowly. If you're going to push for minimum time, you'll need to monitor too. All takes time and effort that could be spent turning. Whether or not it's worth it, you must be the judge. Most of us have found that when wood is available green it's normally in quantities that eat up a whole weekend. More if you're lucky in plunder, or unlucky because the spouse has a long list that weekend. Putting the fresh turns on a shelf and neglecting them for a couple-three months will normally have them ready for final turning. Takes more care and time to final turn than rough, so the supply builds nicely.
Thanks for the pointer!
Thanks Michael, just had the kiln sitting around doing nothing; looks like it will be a garage sale item! Any suggestions on the type of fresh wood that is good to learn on? I live in South Carolina and have a few friends with land that may have timber they'll be cutting soon.
Thanks Michael, just had the kiln sitting around doing nothing; looks like it will be a garage sale item! Any suggestions on the type of fresh wood that is good to learn on? I live in South Carolina and have a few friends with land that may have timber they'll be cutting soon.
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Dennis
It all depends😀
Really, what are you planning to do with the wood? Sometimes it's best to turn the wood while still green, sometimes not.
Ralph
It all depends😀
Really, what are you planning to do with the wood? Sometimes it's best to turn the wood while still green, sometimes not.
Ralph
- Joined
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I'm a lazy guy. I have a basement, so leaving the fresh ones on the floor for a week is a good way to get rid of free moisture. After that, any place with quiet air and RH above 50 seems to do just fine. I do not normally make shapes with high risk for cracking, but when I do I will keep them on the floor for a month or more if I get busy somewhere else. In my circumstance, sealing ends or bagging only lead to mildew. Exception when I bag or box with DRY shavings as a buffer.
If they're harvesting on your neighbors' land, you're interested in the firewood or hardwood pulp grade logs. One of the neat things about turners is that we can use the knobby twisted uglies no self-respecting mill will take. Veneer or even common sawlogs can be pretty dull. Only firm recommendation I can make is to turn things like cherry or walnut green if you want to preserve the sapwood contrast. Leaving others in the log until you can get to them is OK. So do your bark-up stuff early before the bacteria can loosen the bark, and before the sapwood darkens.
If they're harvesting on your neighbors' land, you're interested in the firewood or hardwood pulp grade logs. One of the neat things about turners is that we can use the knobby twisted uglies no self-respecting mill will take. Veneer or even common sawlogs can be pretty dull. Only firm recommendation I can make is to turn things like cherry or walnut green if you want to preserve the sapwood contrast. Leaving others in the log until you can get to them is OK. So do your bark-up stuff early before the bacteria can loosen the bark, and before the sapwood darkens.
Ralph & Martin,
Ralph, I'm not sure at this point what I'm going to do with the wood; all I know is that I've been wanting to learn how to turn wood for quite a while. I'm in no big hurry and find that I learn better from mistakes (hopefully not with injury) but also enjoy learning from the those who've been through the pitfalls already.
Martin, it sounds like I need to get something to monitor the RH in my shop and maybe compare that to our garage when it comes to storing fresh cut timber and fresh turned items. What is a good source for getting the wax for sealing the ends?
Thank you both for your comments.
Dennis
Ralph, I'm not sure at this point what I'm going to do with the wood; all I know is that I've been wanting to learn how to turn wood for quite a while. I'm in no big hurry and find that I learn better from mistakes (hopefully not with injury) but also enjoy learning from the those who've been through the pitfalls already.
Martin, it sounds like I need to get something to monitor the RH in my shop and maybe compare that to our garage when it comes to storing fresh cut timber and fresh turned items. What is a good source for getting the wax for sealing the ends?
Thank you both for your comments.
Dennis
Dennis
I have both a pot of wax, made from old candles and such. But I also have a jog of "Sealer" (Anchorseal, etc). Which is a liquid wax that dries. That being said, a good thick latex paint works well too.
Most people only treat the end-grain.
Like George (MM) is pointing out, you want the wood to dry slowly
You also want to cut the pith (core) away also, much of the splitting that happens starts there
Someplaces to read more
Steve Russell has lots of bowl prep
Darrell also has a lot
Russ has a great deal of good info (boy I hope someone has captured his info, I hate to see if vanish)
I have both a pot of wax, made from old candles and such. But I also have a jog of "Sealer" (Anchorseal, etc). Which is a liquid wax that dries. That being said, a good thick latex paint works well too.
Most people only treat the end-grain.
Like George (MM) is pointing out, you want the wood to dry slowly
You also want to cut the pith (core) away also, much of the splitting that happens starts there
Someplaces to read more
Steve Russell has lots of bowl prep
Darrell also has a lot
Russ has a great deal of good info (boy I hope someone has captured his info, I hate to see if vanish)
Dennis-
I used parafin wax from the supermarket or WalMart in a melting pot for a long time, brushing it on the end grain. It worked, but it makes a HUGE mess on any piece that you can't just dip in the melting pot.
I strongly recommend AnchorSeal over a wax melting pot, if you're going to be storing/drying large blanks - it's more expensive but much easier to work with and no where near the mess.
--
I am a beginner, too, so welcome to the club!
In my limited experience, the best kind of wood to learn with is FREE wood.
Buy yourself a good chain saw, if you don't already have one, and learn how to use it safely. Ask your friends to let you know if they see trees being downed or freshly cut on the side of the road. Also look for lots that are being cleared for construction. Ask the owners or the construction guys if you can look through the wood pile and take a few pieces -most people are happy to see the wood go to an artist instead of the dump.
Stay away from wood you don't know is freshly cut - you could be bringing in woodborers that can attack your wood pile, and then your shop/home. (If you find questionable wood that you really want and isn't rotten, submerge the log(s) or blank(s) in water completely for 24-48 hrs before bringing it inside. This should kill any bugs in the wood by way of suffocation - be sure the wood is COMPLETELY submerged, though.)
Learn to identify the local woods you DON'T want to turn (like scrub Oak and Pine, for me), and grab some of anything else you find, even if you don't know what it is. If you like how it turns/comes out, try to identify it. If not, pitch the rest of what you picked up and add it to the list of woods you don't want to get more of.
You can also watch Craigs list in your area - sometimes people post hardwoods they'll give you if you'll come get it. I got a huge load of some gorgeous hickory that way.
Turning Green Wood by Michael O'Donnell has some good information about harvesting your own wood.
One tip I learned the hard way - if you're cutting rough blanks to be turned in the vague future, make SURE you cut the pith out. I had several nice, LARGE blocks ruined because I hadn't known I needed to remove the pith.
MZR
I used parafin wax from the supermarket or WalMart in a melting pot for a long time, brushing it on the end grain. It worked, but it makes a HUGE mess on any piece that you can't just dip in the melting pot.
I strongly recommend AnchorSeal over a wax melting pot, if you're going to be storing/drying large blanks - it's more expensive but much easier to work with and no where near the mess.
--
I am a beginner, too, so welcome to the club!
In my limited experience, the best kind of wood to learn with is FREE wood.
Buy yourself a good chain saw, if you don't already have one, and learn how to use it safely. Ask your friends to let you know if they see trees being downed or freshly cut on the side of the road. Also look for lots that are being cleared for construction. Ask the owners or the construction guys if you can look through the wood pile and take a few pieces -most people are happy to see the wood go to an artist instead of the dump.
Stay away from wood you don't know is freshly cut - you could be bringing in woodborers that can attack your wood pile, and then your shop/home. (If you find questionable wood that you really want and isn't rotten, submerge the log(s) or blank(s) in water completely for 24-48 hrs before bringing it inside. This should kill any bugs in the wood by way of suffocation - be sure the wood is COMPLETELY submerged, though.)
Learn to identify the local woods you DON'T want to turn (like scrub Oak and Pine, for me), and grab some of anything else you find, even if you don't know what it is. If you like how it turns/comes out, try to identify it. If not, pitch the rest of what you picked up and add it to the list of woods you don't want to get more of.
You can also watch Craigs list in your area - sometimes people post hardwoods they'll give you if you'll come get it. I got a huge load of some gorgeous hickory that way.
Turning Green Wood by Michael O'Donnell has some good information about harvesting your own wood.
One tip I learned the hard way - if you're cutting rough blanks to be turned in the vague future, make SURE you cut the pith out. I had several nice, LARGE blocks ruined because I hadn't known I needed to remove the pith.
MZR
Mike,
Excellent tips! Yes, I own a chainsaw and have about ten acres of woods that my wife has threatened me if I start cutting down trees! I'll definitely check out the book you recommended as well.
My only problem now is trying to find a decent 8" variable speed grinder. Got a Porter-Cable from Lowes and took it back the next day (variable speed was more like random speed), received a Delta from Amazon yesterday and UPS will be picking it back up today (couldn't get the wheels to turn true)!
I'm totally frustrated now because my chisels are dull and I've turned two (sort of) bowls.
Dennis
Excellent tips! Yes, I own a chainsaw and have about ten acres of woods that my wife has threatened me if I start cutting down trees! I'll definitely check out the book you recommended as well.
My only problem now is trying to find a decent 8" variable speed grinder. Got a Porter-Cable from Lowes and took it back the next day (variable speed was more like random speed), received a Delta from Amazon yesterday and UPS will be picking it back up today (couldn't get the wheels to turn true)!
I'm totally frustrated now because my chisels are dull and I've turned two (sort of) bowls.
Dennis
Dennis, sometimes it's the wheel. I have one that will not (an expensive Norton), while the others are just fine (I also have a cheap Grizzly that I use for just buffing and wire-wheel work as it has wobble in it)
Ralph, picked up an 8" grinder from Sears; oddly enough, it looked just like the Delta I sent back! It did have a different interface (sorry, I'm an IT guy....) for attaching the wheel, but most everything else looked the same. Finally got my chisels sharpened and proceeded to practice making wood shavings 🙂
I've got a long way to go, but definitely looking forward to the journey!
Dennis
I've got a long way to go, but definitely looking forward to the journey!
Dennis