UHMW for Live Center Tips

[bowlman]

Somewher I read an article about using UMHW and threading it to match the 3/4 inch threads on a Oneway live center. I used to have this article stored on my computer, but, thanks to a hard drive failure, this article and many others have now disappeared into the digital netherworld.

Any one able to steer me in the right direction? I need it for our local chapter meeting ...

All help appreciated.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Would it be something that you tap and then screw onto the Oneway live center? If so, I suppose that you could turn it to whatever shape you want to fit your needs. One bad thing about turning UHMW plastic is that it develops a static charge on the shavings and causes them to stick to everything close to the lathe. The more you try to brush them off, the more static charge gets built up and makes it tougher to remove.

 

[Frank Townend]

Dick, this article (Custom Centering Cones) may be of value to you.

 

[Richard Baker]

Have made a couple similar pieces from mesquite. A flat-nose type is very handy for applying pressure without damaging the surface of the work.

 

[rjones]

If you need the thread size it is 3/4"x10 threads per inch

 

[bowlman]

UHMW Cum Cones Article

Thanks everyone. The article from AAW 2007 was exactly what I needed. I remembered the author used a cut off bolt in a 4 jaw chuck to shape the end after threading. I accomplish the same thing simply by mounting the UHMW blank in a 4 jaw chuck, turn a spigot, face off the end, drill and tap, the reverse in the chuck using the chuck (grabbing the spigot) and then shape as needed. No need for a bolt and other hardware. This allows me to make really useful, non-marring widgets for the tailcenter .... I also use the UHMW to make non-marring "drivers" or "bungs" to mount directly to the lathe spindle so I can remount already finished work for correction, adjustment and/or to take advantage of those numerous "design opportunities"!

Again, many thanks!

 

[Bob Edwards]

I'm not sure why you need to be so precise to need threads, I drill out a golf ball, works great. I've also used a rubber foot from some discarted appliance.
I have also had occasion to remove the center pin and use the inside concave cup to repeatedly find the center of a small piece. A small 3/8 tenon with a 45 deg. bevel edge fits nicely in the cup.

 

[john lucas]

I'm with Dick on this. I intended to make some special adaptors when the article came out but made the mistake of putting the magazine on the shelf. This time I'm going to order the stuff. I may have found a local source from a friend who owns a company that makes space shuttle and satelite parts.
I needed more accurate and longer wearing pieces for my tailstock. I have 2 live centers. A nova live center that is really great. It comes with multiple points and I use them all. The best thing about this live center is the points are short #2 morse tapers so it's very easy to make adaptors to fit into the live center and on occasion I have used these in the headstock as drive centers. Even though they don't have any teeth they have helped me turn a few jobs.
The other center I have is the powermatic which is just like the Oneway and has 3/4x10 threads on the front. I have been making spheres lately and the piece I use in the tailstock that I made out of wood doesn't work as well as I would like. I want to make one more accurate that will last a long time so I don't have to build it again. I also thought I would make a much larger reverse cone and also a much larger and flatter large point.

 

[MichaelMouse]

Those who have the Nova live center will be able to make all the shapes and size devices they care to with hanger bolts, of course. I have a few on the shelf, but use mostly ad hoc types. Turns out the premades are about like those pieces of wood you put up on the shorts rack - nice, but never suited to the task at hand when you start searching.

Why the slippery plastic when the center revolves? Basswood is my favorite, because it doesn't dent anything.