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Two in a row... YAHOOO

Joined
May 9, 2004
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Here is the little cherry bowl I was working on... 7x2.75"... this is only the second bowl I have turned that stayed together...
The rim treatment is crushed malachite stone... a lot harder to work than the crushed coral was... it actually grooved the shaper I was using... tough stuff.. instead of being recessed into the rim it is slightly raised... actually looks pretty good....
The stone in the body is there to fix a really bad pitch pocket that I ended up removing with my Dremel tool....
The finish is not as good as I wanted, but the shape is nice and I am satisfied with my second bowl... Some good wax and a buffing should take care of the outside.... for some reason it came out duller than I thought it was on the lathe...
2004123019954_CherryMalachite.jpg
 
good start

Like the green accent. Epoxy mixed with the crushed stuff?

My one comment on the outside profile - i've been told that the curve should be continuous - i see 2 - there is a break about 1" from the bottom - it changes direction - thats my problem too and still working on it and the other i've been trying to maintain is an even wall thickness. Bowls look so easy but there is an art to it.

Happy turns.
 
I just played with some tourqoise on a couple of platters that I made. Al Stirt, who is an amazing turner, got me to think about using carving, paint, gesso, and stone on such platters. It really opened up a new way of thinking for me. The cool part is to be understated. I have been surprised at how many people really like the stone inlay. I have also used abalone. I am a big fan of "natural" but in the right vessel, this makes good sense. Good for you for giving it a go!
David Galloway
 
Thanks for the source for crushed stone.
Help me with your sequence. Do you sand the vessel, cut the groove, inlay the stone, sand again and finish....or what? On my recent bowls I did the above and it seemed to work okay. I'm just wondering what most folks do. I saw Dan Duden do a demo that seemed a bit more involved. Just wondering the best, most efficient way.
Thanks,
David
 
At the point where I decide whether the bowl is getting stoned or not it is completely finished and sanded as smooth as I can get it...
Bill Bombeck recommends that you put some finish on the area the the stone is going to be so that the CA does not discolor the wood... I then cut a groove with a parting tool making sure that the sides are tapered (/_\), I then fill the groove so that the stone is slightly overflowing and tap the bowl a little to settle the loose stone and fill in areas that might need it.
Dribble some thin CA onto the stone until it starts to come over the top of the stone... be careful it is real easy to use too much.. let it set for about 10 minutes and give a light spray with some mild accellerator.. DO NOT wait until the next day to cut the stone down.. it will be like concrete... and if you have one, use a carbide cutter.. I actually flattened the end of a round nose HS steel scraper on the malachite, which is very hard stone... and I was cutting it about 20 minutes after putting it in place...
This stuff can be tricky, but it can also make an average bowl a real show stopper... I have also used it on some pens that had voids in the blanks... the pink coral and turquoise really made those pens something else...
 
Papadoc - Just a quick note about abalone shell. If you use abalone shell and creat dust in any manner shape or form - be careful of the dust. Do anything you can to not inhale it. A bunch of years ago they used abalone shells for making buttons. A very large percentage of the people who made the buttons got lung cancer - early on in life. I know you only use a little bit of abalone shell - but just try to not inhale the dust. We want you to grow to a ripe old age - healthy!
Hugh
 
I use crushed turquoise in some of my work. Sells well here in Arizona where some of the turquoise comes from. I sometimes apply it in grooves I've cut in the piece, and sometimes I use it when turning burls, by removing bark from inclusions. I mix the turquoise with epoxy, which won't stain the wood, and apply it with an artist spatula and used dental tools which you can get from your dentist. Using my Makita right-angle drill and 80 grit paper, I grind it down almost to the wood. I then finish up by using finer grit paper. Turquoise is stone, so lathe tools won't work. Try adding a little glitter which you can get from a craft store. Brightens it up a little.
 
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