• Congratulations to Alex Bradley winner of the December 2024 Turning Challenge (click here for details)
  • Conversations are now Direct Messages (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Gabriel Hoff for "Spalted Beech Round Bottom Box" being selected as Turning of the Week for January 6, 2024 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Turning tools

Joined
Aug 25, 2005
Messages
3
Likes
0
Location
Albany, OR
Good morning all, I am fairly new to wood turning and to this forum. I just have a quick opinion question. After getting setup with a lathe, some different chucks, and buying a reading some different books, I am having a hard time spending three to five hundred dollars for a decent set of HSS tools. Right now I have a cheapo carbon steel set that is getting me by, but sure would like to get a good set started. Does anyone have any suggestions for a good inexpensive (not cheap) brand? Or should I just start buying good tools one at a time? What tool would you start with? I was thinking either a roughing gouge or a hollowing tool. Thanks in advance, Shane
 
Shane
You didn't tell us what kind of turning you plan to do. That will help with our suggestions. I think you did good getting the cheapo set because it gives you some turning practice and sharpening pracatice and you have some basis for which tools you like and don't like. I would suggest replacing or adding too your current tools one or two at a time instead of buying a set. Without knowing what you turn I would probably suggest starting with a HSS 3/8" bowl gouge. This is probably the most used tool by most turners.
 
Shane,

I am also new to turning but not to woodworking. One thing I have learned over the years is to buy the best tools I can afford. That does not mean the most expensive. Many manufacturers make great tools. Check the catalogues and ask the experts for specific recommendations as you decide. My tool choice is the Crown PM tool line. They are expensive, but hold an edge longer... good for us lazy folks!
 
You might want to check out my store if CROWN tools are of any interest Wood Chips , Sorby are also good tools. What kind of work you want to do on the lathe pretty much dictates what kind of tools you'll want to get started with. If you want to do bowls, then you can use just a bowl gouge for everything you want to do.
 
better tools

Shane,
I found myself in a similar situation a few years ago. I started with the 3/8" bowl gouge mentioned by John and continued one at a time as I could afford it. I now mostly own Sorby tools but that first 3/8" gouge was the Woodcraft brand for $40. I still use it today with a modified grind. Recently I purchased a glaser 1/2" bowl gouge and a Oneway double ended 3/8" bowl gouge. While these tools are superior to the older HSS gouge they are not neccessary. I avoided a kit because I was still trying to determine what I liked to turn and wanted my current needs to dictate where I spent my money. I am sure I spent an extra $50 since I now own all the tools in the kit your speaking of. As far as hollowing tools go I am still using a set I made for $8 that are similar to the Ellsworth ones you see in the catalogs. They will work until I learn more about tool control inside a hollow form. Then maybe I will buy a set that might reduce time, provide a better finished surface or maybe just have more mass to abrorb the vibration. The greatest advantage, in my mind, in moving up to better tool steels is less sharpening not a better finished result.
mkart
 
tools

mkart said:
. The greatest advantage, in my mind, in moving up to better tool steels is less sharpening not a better finished result.
mkart
I think that mkart is right on the steel. Carbon tools cut fine as long as you don't overheat them. They used them for hundreds of years before the high-speed tools came out. I am also a fan of the Crown P.M. tools. Check out the P&N tools that are available from a number of suppliers. I think that they are a good value. If you buy unhandled tools and make your own handles you can save a few bucks and have handles the size and shape you like.
Tom
 
Shane said:
Good morning all, I am fairly new to wood turning and to this forum. I just have a quick opinion question. After getting setup with a lathe, some different chucks, and buying a reading some different books, I am having a hard time spending three to five hundred dollars for a decent set of HSS tools. Right now I have a cheapo carbon steel set that is getting me by, but sure would like to get a good set started. Does anyone have any suggestions for a good inexpensive (not cheap) brand? Or should I just start buying good tools one at a time? What tool would you start with? I was thinking either a roughing gouge or a hollowing tool. Thanks in advance, Shane

Shane welcome to the forum and to woodturning
What is the basic set? I have prepared a document (though in Italian but with pictures therefore you will not have problem understanding the document) in which I have put a red * in front of those I feel necessary for a start.
Don't go for the most expensive brands, but buy good HSS tools. Sometimes the difference in price is due to the length of the blade. The shortest the cheapest.
Good turning

(ooops! The file is too large and I cannot upload it. If you want send me an e-amil and I will answer and send you the list of tools)
 
Shane,

If you have a bowl gouge, parting tool, spindle gouge, round nose scraper, and perhaps (a square scraper and a skew) then you have thte tools to turn almost anything you can imagine except for a small opening hollow form.

My philosophy on tools is to first learn to use the ones I have. Then as I begin to turn a lot of one particular item, I invest in better tools for that task. This may be an improved version of something I already own or a specialized tool.

I generally stick with M2 steel except for the glazer tools that I have.


Happy Turning,

al
 
Not that far past the newbe stage

My suggestion is that you think in terms of what projects you want to tackle and in what order. In other words, are you going to turn pens before you tackle tops, bottle stoppers, baseball bats and bowls. First set your list of projects that you will tackle. From this flows the priorities of which tools to purchase first, second, and third. You don't need to be buying bowl gouges to turn pens, etc.

Many items are common to all projects - dust control, lightening, measurements, sharpening etc. Set those as an early priority because they are common to all projects and areas of turning.

Past that I am in favor of starting with the best only because I remember too well the frustrations and ruined projects that resulted from grabbing a poor/cheap tool just to finish one little thing.

Finally, be careful, this hobby is addictive! Enjoy
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Shane said:
I am having a hard time spending three to five hundred dollars for a decent set of HSS tools. Right now I have a cheapo carbon steel set that is getting me by, but sure would like to get a good set started.

It's not hard to spend 500 on tools at all. First, there will always be a new or improved or fashionable tool you don't own. Fact of life. So don't think getting an early start in purchasing will get you any closer to your goal of the best.

I still have my cheapo carbon steel set. Still use those parts of it which are long enough to reach over the rest to do certain jobs. As two other folks have mentioned, as long as you don't overheat them, they're great. The edge does the cutting, not the label.

If you're still into general-purpose turning, get a good roughing gouge next. I'd say a 1 1/4" is best, because you can use the upright ears to plane. If you're hot to try bowls, get a 3/8" flute dimension bowl gouge. You'll want a smaller eventually if you are on a mini, but most folks grow their lathes, so you're buying the one in the middle. I'm not certain the powdered metal types justify their price over M2. Seems the main reason I have to sharpen is because I'm cutting sand with bark, and I always want to sharpen before the final passes, so I end up treating them the same.
 
Crown Tools

Hey Everybody, I have had 3 NEW sets of Crown Tools for sale on the want Ads for a couple of weeks at a very big discount -still trying to pay the last few bills from the factory. Everyone mentions where to buy these sets at expensive stores and the last American, production woodturner, gets completely ignored!!!! Honestly, just where can a Woodturner Turn? 🙁
 
spindle gouge, scraper

I don't think I noticed any mention of getting a good spindle gouge. My go-to tools are often 3/8" spindle gouges that do not have a real long bevel on them. One is a Sorby and the other is a Hamlet 2060. Both have served me well. I make ornaments and boxes, but when cleaning up the bottom of a bowl when it is reversed, I find a spindle gouge is best for the detail work around the foot.

And there are places where the optimal tool is a scraper. Shear scraping can clean up a bowl very nicely.

I find that sets of tools usually have two or three tools that I don't really want, so I have avoided them. The savings that one seems to accrue when buying a set is quickly lost when you realize that only two-thirds of the set is useful to you.
 
Thanks everyone

I really appreciate everyones input. I didnt think about mentioning what I was going to turn, because I didnt really think about turning just one type of thing. I want the ability to turn different types of things. With that said I have mainly been practicing doing bowls and that has gone pretty well and getting better all the time. My main problems have been trying to turn end grain (tried doing a goblet), and trying to use the fingernail gouge. I am almost scared to use this gouge anymore. It seems no matter how I sharpen it or hold it I get very scary catches. So any advice there would be appreciated. I did decide to order a 3/8 crown pm bowl gouge and I guess I will start my collection from there. Just a little background, I am a pretty experienced wood worker with all the other basic tools like a bandsaw, table saw, jointer, and planer. So this seemed like natural progretion (spelling?) trying to expand my abilitys by doing some lathe work and so far really enjoying it. I have definetely noticed that I now look at peoples firewood piles in a whole new way. Thanks again everone, Shane
P.S. Elizabeth I sent you an email
 
Shane said:
I want the ability to turn different types of things. With that said I have mainly been practicing doing bowls and that has gone pretty well and getting better all the time. My main problems have been trying to turn end grain (tried doing a goblet), and trying to use the fingernail gouge. I am almost scared to use this gouge anymore. It seems no matter how I sharpen it or hold it I get very scary catches. So any advice there would be appreciated.

My personal favorite for end grain hollowing is the pointed gouge. It's pretty much the same as an Oland tool in its use, plunging on the point and peeling on the sides.

I used a steady when hogging inside this, but it's really not necessary. You give a bit of down tilt to the handle to keep the shavings flowing, and it takes a controllable cut. This started as a "detail" gouge, but any shallow flute cylindrical can be ground pointy. I have a 1/4" ground for hollowing ornaments until the bent neck tool is necessary. Good to have plenty of shaving room.
 

Attachments

  • 11-2-Pointy.jpg
    11-2-Pointy.jpg
    33.7 KB · Views: 172
  • Peelings.jpg
    Peelings.jpg
    58.8 KB · Views: 156
Last edited:
Tangboy5000 said:
Just make sure you have a handled tool first in order to be able to turn handles for your unhandled tools. It sounds funny, but this does happen quite a bit. 😀


Not necessarily, I rehandled a friends tool in an "emergency" situation with a dowel rod from Lowes down the road. Ugly band-saw hogged ends and all. It doesn't even have a ferrule, just a straight 18" stick with a big ol roughing gouge in it.
 
HI Shane,
I can only tell you what I did when I got started 4 years ago. I bought 3/8 bowl and spindle gouge, 1/8 parting pool, round nose scraper, and a skew. All Sorby tools. Today, I own a Crown 5/8 gouge cost 89.00 rather then 120.00 for the Sorby 5/8 gouge. Today I would recommend looking at Oneway's Hamshire tools. HSS, good quality and reasonably priced. Example 26.00 for a 3/8 gouge Sorby wants 36.00-38.00. I believe that HSS M2 European steel, the quality is pretty much all the same. I would stay away from the Chinese steel. This is just my opinion and I will be interested to hear what you decide. VWNW
 
Back
Top