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Trying My Hand at Chasing Threads

Bill Boehme

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I bought a set of thread chasing tools nearly two years ago and finally decided to see I could actually use them. My trial piece of wood was from a small Mexican Plum tree that had sprouted from the stump of a tree that we had removed several years ago. The wood is very tight grained with no visible pores. It was also sopping wet, The sapling was only about 1½" in diameter so it wasn't really large enough to make anything, but it seemed suitable for practice.

My first couple attempts didn't work very well, but I started to get the right rhythm on the third try. I don't know if it is easier to thread wet green wood, but I was definitely surprised by the results. Now, I just need to find a larger Mexican Plum tree.

image.jpeg
 
I bought a set of thread chasing tools nearly two years ago and finally decided to see I could actually use them. My trial piece of wood was from a small Mexican Plum tree that had sprouted from the stump of a tree that we had removed several years ago. The wood is very tight grained with no visible pores. It was also sopping wet, The sapling was only about 1½" in diameter so it wasn't really large enough to make anything, but it seemed suitable for practice.

My first couple attempts didn't work very well, but I started to get the right rhythm on the third try. I don't know if it is easier to thread wet green wood, but I was definitely surprised by the results. Now, I just need to find a larger Mexican Plum tree.

View attachment 25110
Bill I think you might be just in time, step away from those tools immediately! They are highly addictive. Put them in the mail and I will dispose of them for you. You will have the urge to chase threads on all types of wood... Had I known this, I have some Lychee and Kiawe, they are sort of decent for threads...
 
I've never had success chasing threads in green wood but haven't tried more than one or two times and probably didn't have suitable species. Those threads look pretty good. Here's a question for you thread chasers. there obviously seems to be a rhythm that works but my question is. Should you push the tool, or have the wood push the tool. there is a subtle difference. the reason I'm asking is if you push the tool it seems like you might be cutting on front side of the thread. If you let the wood push the tool it seems like you would be cutting on the backside. Maybe I'm over thinking this but it seems like one or the other would cut a better thread based on grain direction. maybe, maybe not. I tried playing with that the other day on some softer maple and got bad threads no matter what. On good threading wood I can't really tell the difference.
 
Looks like you are off to a good start, Bill. I am with John. Never had much luck with green wood. Threads generally don't cut well and you have the problem of wood movement when they do. Never threaded plum, but have had pretty good luck with Bradford Pear which is common around where I live.
 
So much of woodturning is a Goldilocks and the three bears thing.... Not too hard, not too soft, but just right. I probably should try to do this again some time. Tried it once with Allen Batty mentoring me, and that made it easy.....

robo hippy
 
My first couple attempts didn't work very well, but I started to get the right rhythm on the third try. I don't know if it is easier to thread wet green wood, but I was definitely surprised by the results. Now, I just need to find a larger Mexican Plum tree.

Looking 1/2 good :)

:)Being the clever fellow that you are you know you have to size and cut the matching threads on the inside. :)

Good cover using green wood as it doesn’t really matter if the inside threads fit since they won’t work when the wood goes oval.

Have fun!
 
I've never had success chasing threads in green wood but haven't tried more than one or two times and probably didn't have suitable species. Those threads look pretty good. Here's a question for you thread chasers. there obviously seems to be a rhythm that works but my question is. Should you push the tool, or have the wood push the tool. there is a subtle difference. the reason I'm asking is if you push the tool it seems like you might be cutting on front side of the thread. If you let the wood push the tool it seems like you would be cutting on the backside. Maybe I'm over thinking this but it seems like one or the other would cut a better thread based on grain direction. maybe, maybe not. I tried playing with that the other day on some softer maple and got bad threads no matter what. On good threading wood I can't really tell the difference.

Sort of in between you pushing and the wood pulling based on this one experience. A light touch and then getting your flow in sync with rhe threads. As you know if you try to force it along or expect the wood to pull you along the result will be stripped threads.

I think that I know where there is s large Mexican plum tree in the park next to me. I need to wait for the next moonless night. :D
 
Sort of in between you pushing and the wood pulling based on this one experience. A light touch and then getting your flow in sync with rhe threads. As you know if you try to force it along or expect the wood to pull you along the result will be stripped threads

That is about it.

Making a champher on the leading edge makes it easier to strike the first thread.
Then it is just a matter letting the first thread feed the tool while your adjust the angle slightly to cut the next thread.
When you cut parallel you should have your threads.
 
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I've never had success chasing threads in green wood but haven't tried more than one or two times and probably didn't have suitable species. Those threads look pretty good. Here's a question for you thread chasers. there obviously seems to be a rhythm that works but my question is. Should you push the tool, or have the wood push the tool. there is a subtle difference. the reason I'm asking is if you push the tool it seems like you might be cutting on front side of the thread. If you let the wood push the tool it seems like you would be cutting on the backside. Maybe I'm over thinking this but it seems like one or the other would cut a better thread based on grain direction. maybe, maybe not. I tried playing with that the other day on some softer maple and got bad threads no matter what. On good threading wood I can't really tell the difference.
With the right timber it doesn't matter if it's green or dry, as long as is just for practice. I got green Suriname Cherry, green logs, I was using them for practice, perfect threads. Also we got unlimited white algarrobo, decent threads on that, I tried it the same day that I cut it. Just can't make a box with green wood...
 
I've never had success chasing threads in green wood but haven't tried more than one or two times and probably didn't have suitable species. Those threads look pretty good. Here's a question for you thread chasers. there obviously seems to be a rhythm that works but my question is. Should you push the tool, or have the wood push the tool. there is a subtle difference. the reason I'm asking is if you push the tool it seems like you might be cutting on front side of the thread. If you let the wood push the tool it seems like you would be cutting on the backside. Maybe I'm over thinking this but it seems like one or the other would cut a better thread based on grain direction. maybe, maybe not. I tried playing with that the other day on some softer maple and got bad threads no matter what. On good threading wood I can't really tell the difference.
I do push the tool John, not much, maybe a little more than the pressure you use for a final push cut with a gouge. On the female thread I use the armrest, so I bring the tool to me. Huw Crompton sent me by accident 2 green Boxwood logs. I made a box with one piece. AFter 4 months still fine. Not sure how green it is, but the point is, with the righ timber, green or dry, you can chase threads...
 
Sort of in between you pushing and the wood pulling based on this one experience. A light touch and then getting your flow in sync with rhe threads. As you know if you try to force it along or expect the wood to pull you along the result will be stripped threads.

I think that I know where there is s large Mexican plum tree in the park next to me. I need to wait for the next moonless night. :D
I have a night vision scope on one of my rifles, I can ride shotgun for you, be on the lookout. I'll only take a flat rate box of Mexican Plum...
 
Thanks for all the comments everybody . Unfortunately my Mexican plum wasn't large enough to do inside threads so I wasn't able to try matching threads. Did anybody notice that these were NPT (National Pipe Thread)? Probably not much call for wooden NPT threads. :D

I have lots of cocobolo including one really big block that I've had for many years. Now I know what I can do with it although I would rather practice on something less exotic. Maybe that old hickory log that's about ten years old and hard as a rock. Also some live oak that is also rock hard.
 
I have a night vision scope on one of my rifles, I can ride shotgun for you, be on the lookout. I'll only take a flat rate box of Mexican Plum...

I probably ought to mention that while I live on one side of the park, DPS is on the other side and tree of interest is in the middle. :D
 
Thanks for all the comments everybody . Unfortunately my Mexican plum wasn't large enough to do inside threads so I wasn't able to try matching threads. Did anybody notice that these were NPT (National Pipe Thread)? Probably not much call for wooden NPT threads. :D

I have lots of cocobolo including one really big block that I've had for many years. Now I know what I can do with it although I would rather practice on something less exotic. Maybe that old hickory log that's about ten years old and hard as a rock. Also some live oak that is also rock hard.
As good as Cocobolo is, it's not my favorite... Once you try Boxwood and Lignum you judge everything by that... Of the woods here, Surinam Cherry so far it's my favorite. I got a few pieces when I went to Honolulu. My home made Kiln is working like a champ, in 3 weeks I can dry a box blank...
 
From various comments that I have read, getting suitable boxwood is a real challenge. I suppose that you are talking about Argentinan lignum vitae which basically has replaced the original LV. I have a real LV mallet that I got about 35 years ago. The color of real LV rangers from yellow to chocolate brown on my mallet and I understand that it can also be a greenish brown. It's now on the CITES list of wood that can't be traded across borders. I have a few pieces of Argentinan lignum vitae which are very green in color and has a pungent smell. While it is heavy, it doesn't have the oily feel of the wood from Haiti. They say that it also may soon be on the CITES list.
 
From various comments that I have read, getting suitable boxwood is a real challenge. I suppose that you are talking about Argentinan lignum vitae which basically has replaced the original LV. I have a real LV mallet that I got about 35 years ago. The color of real LV rangers from yellow to chocolate brown on my mallet and I understand that it can also be a greenish brown. It's now on the CITES list of wood that can't be traded across borders. I have a few pieces of Argentinan lignum vitae which are very green in color and has a pungent smell. While it is heavy, it doesn't have the oily feel of the wood from Haiti. They say that it also may soon be on the CITES list.
I got my Boxwood from 2 guys in England. They are both on Facebook. Huw Crompton is involved in Boxwood reforestation projects and has access to a lot of good Boxwood. Prices are very reasonable, ships thru UPS... Jon Dempsey bought tons, actually like 4 tons of it. I traded Koa for Boxwood with him... I have about 5 large flat rate boxes full of Boxwood... When I went to Arrowmnont, there was a Carpenter from Florida taking woodturning. He donated to Arrowmont a truck load of true lignum. I sent home several boxes and a suitcase with almost 40 pounds of it... The Argentina Lignum it's good, but not as oily as the true lignum, you are right, I have some too... I just traded a plank of True Kamani for a log of very old log of a very rare native Hawaiian wood. Was used to make weapons in ancient times, it's so dense that doesn't float, sinks in the ocean. I made a cylinder today, I will use part of the weathered outside , I think it will look nice to show the age... Name of the wood is Kauila... It has potential of been the best wood that I have so far found here. I also got a piece of Lama wood, or Hawaiian Ebony... I also think it's going to work... Like I said, thread chasing it's an addiction!! Aloha
 

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There is absolutely nothing easier than Boxwood for chasing threads. When I got my first piece I was still struggling with chasing. I was doing OK but it was always a challenge. That stuff made me look like a pro. It just cuts so well. I could not find a source around here anywhere.
 
Any suggestions on drying and curing boxwood? I had to take down a couple of them on my property, big one is about 4 inch diameter. Best to rough turn box blanks and put on a shelf???

robo hippy
 

Any suggestions on drying and curing boxwood? I had to take down a couple of them on my property, big one is about 4 inch diameter. Best to rough turn box blanks and put on a shelf???

robo hippy
That's a big root......the way they air dried wood at furniture factories before they went overseas was to stack the planks that had 1 inch square separators between them...a root probably could just criss cross the roots themselves to air dry.......personally I would try turning the boxwood green......I've only had 1 piece warp...
 
Any suggestions on drying and curing boxwood? I had to take down a couple of them on my property, big one is about 4 inch diameter. Best to rough turn box blanks and put on a shelf???

robo hippy
I put one small piece in my kiln and it cracked ... Huw Crompton told me his Boxwood is air dry, about 20 years lol. I would like to hear other ideas too...
 
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