Tried And True Finish on a Bowl Question

[Jim Bennett]

Just finished turning a segmented bowl. Walnut base, five rings of maple/Paduak segments, and a top ring of walnut. Top ring has an OD of about 11 inches. Came out pretty well, considering my newbieness. Am planning on using Tried and True Original Wood Finish on it. Watched a couple of videos on it’s application, but none were done with a turned item - all simple boards.

Anyone used this stuff on a turned bowl, and if so, did you apply it with the bowl mounted and turning at a very slow (100 rpm) speed?

Jim

 

[Zach LaPerriere]

I used the Tried and True Original and also the Danish Oil on a good number of bowls, maybe 50 apiece. Heat is good for the Original, and applying it with enough speed (more than 100 rpms) to create some heat seemed to help get the oil in the wood.

In the end, I opted to not apply with the lathe on, simply because I would then need to let the finish dry for several days before turning the bottom of the bowl. Some people like sanding dust in their finish, but not me.

They're both great finishes, but for me the low temperatures here in my shop and the longer dry times made me happier with a tung & citrus oil mix. I also think the tung & citrus is a little more of a hearty finish, but the Danish Oil is a close second, with the Original being a close third.

 

[Odie]

In the end, I opted to not apply with the lathe on, simply because I would then need to let the finish dry for several days before turning the bottom of the bowl. Some people like sanding dust in their finish, but not me.

Howdy Zach......how has it been going? Getting ready for your 1-day heat spell in the summer?

The reason I'm posting, is when I read your message, I was asking myself why you don't use an "assembly line" approach, so that time doesn't factor in as much.....? This is what I do, and it might work for you, too. Once a bowl is started on the finish cuts, it enters into a group of 8 bowls that are in the process of completing. There are four steps to completing a bowl, and each step has 2 bowls in that step. There is plenty of time for Danish Oil to dry and cure with this method. Well, anyway.....just a thought for you to chew on.....

Knowing that you have a "open" wall shop, you might even want to take your bowls inside the home, and only take them out to the shop to do the next step.

Take care.....

-----odie-----

 

[Zach LaPerriere]

Howdy Zach......how has it been going? Getting ready for your 1-day heat spell in the summer?

The reason I'm posting, is when I read your message, I was asking myself why you don't use an "assembly line" approach, so that time doesn't factor in as much.....? This is what I do, and it might work for you, too. Once a bowl is started on the finish cuts, it enters into a group of 8 bowls that are in the process of completing. There are four steps to completing a bowl, and each step has 2 bowls in that step. There is plenty of time for Danish Oil to dry and cure with this method. Well, anyway.....just a thought for you to chew on.....

Knowing that you have a "open" wall shop, you might even want to take your bowls inside the home, and only take them out to the shop to do the next step.

Take care.....

-----odie-----

Thanks for the thoughtful post Odie. You are quite right. For most people that would work great.

The first reason I don't take that approach is instant gratification! It just plain comforts me to finish a single bowl. Call it aesthetics, or even BS, but I just feel like there's a cohesiveness to starting in and finishing. I don't even like to leave it overnight, once I've begun the finish stage.

What you outline would indeed be more efficient.

And yes: my bowl drying & finishing shack is 50 yards away, so that also influences things. We live in the forest, and this is temperate rainforest. Yesterday I had to lower my curtain looking out because it was blowing so hard the rain was coming in and sprinkling my finish cuts. Not a good way to raise the grain...

Maybe someday when I have a dry shop...and more patience.

P.S. I looking forward to that one day this summer when it hits 70. We got a sneak peak in March when it 62-65 for three days straight! Fresh snow on the mountains this morning.

 

[Michael Nathal]

Zach how long does the tung oil/citrus blend take to cure?

 

[Russell Nugent]

I don't know for him but I just did some bowls first coat with just 50/50 tung oil and mineral spirits, it's taken two weeks for the oil not to seep or with my fingerprints. I used the lee valley stuff.

 

[Tim Connell]

If you like the look/function of tung oil but the dry time is too long, try some of the polymerized tung oil. It will dry overnight. I typically use between 2-4 coats. I've been buying mine from Lee Valley.

 

[Russell Nugent]

I plan to but can't justify not using this stuff up for the price.

 

[Doug Freeman]

You can add japan drier to the tung oil to speed the dry time

 

[Zach LaPerriere]

Zach how long does the tung oil/citrus blend take to cure?

Good question! Dry is a relative term. If wiped properly after waiting 15 minutes to an hour, it's usually dry to the touch within 12 hours. I give it at least a few days between coats, a week seems better—but it depends on my timeline and wood also wood species.

@Russell Nugent If you are using polymerized tung, then I'm wondering if you need to be more thorough with wiping down the tung oil blend. If you leave too much on it'll cure into a rough surface over weeks. I've done it, and it's hard to recover from. It's critical to wipe down with a completely dry rag until it's almost dry to the touch.

I'd recommend wiping down that bowl with mineral spirits and few times to remove.

 

[Russell Nugent]

It's not the polymerized tung oil. I've got just the natural stuff from lee valley. My next can will be the polymerized stuff. I'm pretty sure that'll be food safe when cured.
I'm going to take the suggestion earlier and pick up some Japan drier.