Tools

[sundance]

Since we were talking about tool handle sleeves, can someone give me a quick tutorial on tool making? metal tube handles. i like them but have not given much thought to how to make them.

any help would be appreaciated.

Don.

 

[Burt Alcantara]

Start here and here. This is the basics of an Oland tool. It is very simple and all the parts can usually be purchased locally.

I used my lathe to bore the hole as I couldn't get a good read on my drill press. I have a 3520 so it easily fit 1/2" drill rod. I had a machinist do my 20mm rod. You use standard twist drill bits to bore the steel. Not a big deal.

You will need to buy a tap for the size of your set screws. Most of my metal handles from Kelton and Bosch use 8mm set screws so I opted for that size on my handles. Any hardware store will have them in various sizes.

I use HSS 5% cobalt cutters because that's what I can get locally. I may try a higher cobalt percentage with the hope that it will hold an edge longer.

My 3/8 cutter tool is now my number one go to tool for turning. I can roughout big clunky logs and get them down to a 180 grit smoothness. Once I get the sharpening profile I'll probably be able to get a non sanding finish (yeah, I wish).

Google Oland. You'll get a lot of hits.

 

[laymarcrafts]

Don I have made various Stell Handles for all forms of Tool some that have fixed Tools and others that take Inserts you can find details on my site.

http://www.laymar-crafts.co.uk/tip31.htm

Richard

 

[Tony K. in NC]

Tool handle

I use 1" 6061/T6 aluminum round bar, bore it on the lathe and put a couple set screws in it. get some braided vinyl hose from lowes, clear with white braid inside. use the hairspray trick i explained in the tool handle thread.

 

[Burt Alcantara]

Tony,
How are you holding the aluminum rod? I can't get my chucks to give me a grip that would keep the rod centered. If I can get the rod through the spindle then I have no problem but I know I can't get 1" into the spindle. Are you using a 3 jaw eng chuck?

 

[john lucas]

Burt I use a center punch to mark the center. I put one end in the chuck and bring the tailstock up to center the other end. I should say that I put the 3 wheel steady rest on first. Lock the wheels down on the bar. Then remove the tailstock put your drill chuck in and drill the hole. It doesn't really matter if the hole is exactly centered. that's more of an aesthetic thing.

 

[Burt Alcantara]

I think the key word here is 3 wheel steady.

 

[Tony K. in NC]

Try this

I just mount the aluminum in my chuck after center punching the end, you can have the drill chuck with bit ready to go kinda settled into the center punch dimple, then SLOWLY turn your speed control up on lathe to start it while letting the aluminum kinda rest on crooked fingers. then advance the bit. Just remember to keep it cool, either by stopping once in a while, or what i do is once i get the bit started in i use the blow gun on it to keep it cool, Aluminum will crack if overheated.

 

[kenvalaska]

Machinists use a special drill bit called a "center drill" to start these kinds of holes. They come in sets for a nominal price from Harbor Freight and Little Machine Shop and other sources. Starting the drilling process with one of these is a good choice.

Cutting metal can be enhanced with some lubricant. WD-40, kerosene, or light oil can decrease the noise and increase the cutting substantially.

Something goes wrong with the hole -- JB Weld is your friend.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Machinists use a special drill bit called a "center drill" to start these kinds of holes. They come in sets for a nominal price from Harbor Freight and Little Machine Shop and other sources. Starting the drilling process with one of these is a good choice.

Cutting metal can be enhanced with some lubricant. WD-40, kerosene, or light oil can decrease the noise and increase the cutting substantially.

Something goes wrong with the hole -- JB Weld is your friend.

The fluids used when drilling and tapping metal are used for cooling the cutting edge and to help flush away chips and particles. Various types of oil can often be substituted for the cooling fluid, but for aluminum, products like WD-40 are probably not the best choice because of the potential for galling. Fluids used for aluminum usually have a higher viscosity than those used for steel. I prefer to use RapidTap or Tap Magic and they are available in containers as small as a 3-IN-1 oil can. BTW, 3-IN-1 is viscous enough to be used on aluminum, but not quite as good as using actual cutting fluid.