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Tools for sculpting turned vessels

Joined
Sep 27, 2007
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Location
Belgium
Hi,

I am thinking about buying a machine to do some sculpting in turned wood.
What would be the best choice to make?
Does someone has experience with that?

Squirrel - Thanks!
 
squirrel, if you mean shaping a turned piece, then there are two worth considering. A 'Dremel' type tool. And the other would have to be the Arbortech Mini grinder. It can accept a range of blades/sanders and removes wood very effectively.
 
I have 5 dremels. Great for smaller details not so great for quick removeal of stock. I did a lot of carving with them before I stepped up to other toolsl, and still use them when the I need to really fine tune a carving. I pick them up at flea mkt, yard sales, and pawn shops. It's the good quality tooling that's expensive. The dremel cutters are very so so for carving.
All of my early carving was done with the Dremel and a small set of palm carving tools. I still use both constantly even though I now have many more carving tools.
Arobortec mini and full size arbortec cutters. I use these a lot for quick wood removeal and texturing. You can get surprisingly precise if you practice. You can also very quickly remove wood you don't want to. Use both hands and be careful. They can be dangerous. I also have the chainsaw type blade. I still use it because I have it but I think the Arbortec is much easier to control and therefore safer.

Flex shaft machines. I have 3 different ones and think the Foredom is the best. This is the best all around tool. I use it for everything from sanding with drum sanders to doing very fine detail work. You can also get reciprocating hand pieces that let you power carve. Some cuts are much better with this tool rather than rotating cutters. There are two downsides neither of which is a very big problem. The flex shaft can get in the way or make it hard to shift to a comfortable position for detail carving. The foot speed control is both handy and a pain. It's hard to maintain a controlled speed but this works well for some operations. They sell a table top speed control that solves the control problem but it sure is nice to be able to start and stop the machine with your foot.

I don't have any of the high speed carvers. If you want to do extremely fine shallow detail work, or piercing then that is the way to go. I've done both with the Dremel but it can be difficult.
 
Mr. squirrel,

there are two basic wood removal tools
rotary and reciprocating.

rotary the bit is turned - these tools generally work best on dry wood
and you don't have to be overly concerned with grain direction. There are two basic bits cutter and burrs. and they come in a wide variety of shapes and different level of courseness.
If you have an air compressor Cheap harbor freight die grinders with a few $40 burrs will remove a lot of wood in a hurry.
The air tools are loud.


reciprocating - the bits are like chisels and gouges and the tool bangs on it real fast when it is touched to the wood. these work best on green wood and you have to be extremely mindful of the grain. These tools often leave a surface that needs no sanding
Al Stirt uses a big Stone carving air tool and wide bits he can carve 1" wide flutes on a 15 bowl in 2 passes leaving a finished surface.
For the small units just about everyone used the flex cut bits.

Saws are often useful for some wood removal
chainsaw, bandsaw, reciprocating air saw, sawsall, coping saw.
Trent Bosch uses a harbor freight air body saw with hacksaw blades cut to length. This leave a clean cut and is fairly flexible.

happy turning,
Al
 
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Hello,

thank you very much for your reply!
I have an arbortech mini grinder and yes, it works very well but my problem is I cannot use it for precise work.

I also have a dremel - I bought it 10 years ago for polishing ceramics ... and never used it since then anymore ... so as far as I understand if I buy some rotating cutters and put it on the Dremel I will have a very precise cutting tool and ... I do not have to take care about the woodgrain.

Then there is the fine sculpting .... I looked to the website of Flexshaft and I found:
.h-50 handpiece, power chisel
. AK 510 chisel set canvas pouch with 12 scisels
. but what motor should I take? Is avery motor other than the heavy duty
motors ok? Is it ok when I take the 1/3 hp txb motor and emx speedcontrol
tabletop model?
And is this everything I need then - I suppose so ... .


I'm also very much interested in the machine of Alan Stirt because I am hesitating whether I will buy a machine for fine scisel work or a motor for power driven sculpting for wood sculpture (big). I wonder why he uses one for STONE? Maybe because he was jusgt able to buy it for a small price or is there a technical reason?

Thanks - Squirrel
 
I think it's wrong to say grain direction doesn't matter with rotary tool. It matters less I will admit but if you make 2 cuts, one with the grain and one against the grain you will see the difference.
The same is true with reciprocating tools vs hand chisels. You can sometimes get away with things using the reciprocating tools that you wouldn't using a hand chisel but if you don't obey the grain rule it will bite you sooner or later.
John was right about the Automac. I have the Ryobi and it cuts but the vibration wears you out. I wear my bicycling gloves when I use it. The Automac is actually fun to use. The Ryobi isn't sold anymore. It was really cheap which is why I have it. I'm going to spring for the Foredom handle and give it a try.
 
Hello,

thanks for all the replies.
I have the following questions: the automach is cheaper than the foredom is ... but is it as good? - fine details, no vibration, same power - ?

I'm not a rich person, not at all, but I prefer to buy one time a good machine than to buy 3 times a cheaper one. Although in general I am not able to buy the very best, for one time in my life this is possible because the dollar is very cheap versus the euro. This will only last for a couple of months so I cannot wait too long ... Anyway, if the automach has very good qualities I do not see why I should buy an expensive machine.
Can anyone answer me on this?

Best regards - Squirrel.
 
I bought a Foredom rotary carving tool about a year ago -- it was a kit that included a large assortment of cutters and also the foot control. It also included two DVDs plus instruction booklet. The Foredom is a heavy duty and very rugged tool designed to last a lifetime. It is also quite powerful. I have not used it extensively, but I have used it enough to appreciate its very high quality of materials and construction along with excellent instructions. It requires some practice to learn the proper techniques for using it effectively, but the instructions are very helpful in that regard. It is also necessary to have very good breathing protection since the cutter creates large volumes of wood dust that is directed right at your face. A powered respirator would not be overkill in this situation -- I use my 3M Airstream powered respirator when using the Foredom -- otherwise, I would quickly be overcome by breathing all of the dust. At the very least, a paper "comfort mask" is necessary, but a mask rated for N95 or N100 would be much better. Don't even think about the ineffective Dust-Bee-Gone comfort mask.
 
Hi,

thank all of you for the very helpfull advice.
Finally I bought a Flexxi rotary tool - 450 watt motor.
Maybe there are better ones but anyway, I am satisfied with the strength of the machine.

Squirrel
 
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