Thin parting tools and thickness

[Adrian Wilson]

This may be getting a little anal, but something of a mystery to me. I would like to have a thin parting tool, like the Firmager and it's kin. They aren't terribly expensive, but I have made a number of tools, that seems pretty simple to make, so I started looking for an HSS blank. All the catalogue descriptions I have seen describe pretty much ALL the tools I have run across as 1/16" thick, or 1.6mm. That's .0625". I can't find any HSS blanks in that thickness no matter what units I search under; A2, yes, but not HSS, all I can find is 2mm in the width and length required. I know .4mm isn't much to worry about and I could thin it out if I was very worried about it, but curious what is going on there... the manufacturers are finding 1.6mm. Or thinning it themselves, maybe.

Related question, I've also been thinking about a 1/8" parting tool, but if you have one at 1/16" (or 2mm), 1/8" is not much bigger..... would it be unnecessary if you have the thinner one, or do you still use the 1/8"?

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Yes, I would use both 1/16 & 1/8. The latter is stiffer and stronger. Most of the parting I do does not benefit from a really thin parting cut.

 

[David Gilbert]

I bought a 1/16" parting tool and made another one similar to one that Cindy Drozda uses. One option it to buy a power hack saw blade (McMaster-Carr or other) and grind the profile that you want. Clearly this kind of parting tool will only be used carefully in special places.

 

[Dave Landers]

I made one from a reciprocating saw blade (one of the wider "demo" or "rescue" style blades). Grind off the teeth, add a handle, and profile the end as you with.

 

[Adrian Wilson]

I made one from a reciprocating saw blade (one of the wider "demo" or "rescue" style blades). Grind off the teeth, add a handle, and profile the end as you with.

Yup, that is definitely an option in the mix.

 

[Asher Langton]

Related question, I've also been thinking about a 1/8" parting tool, but if you have one at 1/16" (or 2mm), 1/8" is not much bigger..... would it be unnecessary if you have the thinner one, or do you still use the 1/8"?

I only use a 1/16" parting tool when I absolutely need a very thin cut. I find a 1/8" parting tool cuts better and is just more enjoyable to use. And if I'm removing waste or making a tenon, I prefer my 3/8" beading and parting tool over both smaller tools.

 

[Doug Freeman]

I find a 1/16” parting tool handy to have. Doesn’t get a lot of use, but when you need it…. well, you need it. Sometimes that little extra left on the tenon is enough vs remaking the part/piece.

 

[Doug Rasmussen]

Look on Amazon or elsewhere for a 3/32" x 1/2" parting tool blade like used in metal cutting. That's a very common style with a relief on both sides under the cutting edge and dished at the top. They're referred to as a "P" type blade.. Easily sharpened by grinding back the front.

We use the 3/32" thick blade up to about 1" diameter work in softer metal. That diameter is a only a general rule of thumb. In metal parting the blades have a tendency to veer off from a straight infeed and breaking. For larger diameter or tough material thicker parting blades are used.

 

[JeffSmith]

Been using the D-Way thin parting tool for years - it’s tapered from .080 to .060 so it doesn’t bind in the cut, is M42 steel and seems to last forever. It’s perfect for parting tops off boxes when grain match is important.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

A guy in our Tuesday woodturning group made one from a butter knife.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

https://www.amazon.com/sspa/click?ie=UTF8&spc=MTo2MDYyMzUzMDkyNDUzMTIzOjE3MTQ2OTk0MDU6c3BfZGV0YWlsOjIwMDAzNTQ3MTI2OTUyMTo6Ojo&url=%2Fdp%2FB082522GJX%2Fref%3Dsspa_dk_detail_6%3Fpsc%3D1%26pd_rd_i%3DB082522GJX%26pd_rd_w%3DaJL0n%26content-id%3Damzn1.sym.f734d1a2-0bf9-4a26-ad34-2e1b969a5a75%26pf_rd_p%3Df734d1a2-0bf9-4a26-ad34-2e1b969a5a75%26pf_rd_r%3DBKAVX0MET6WR5B7HJ1FW%26pd_rd_wg%3DCsyeJ%26pd_rd_r%3D03e396da-7a77-410c-9ad9-db85eaf26900%26s%3Dhi%26sp_csd%3Dd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw

The above I think is a link to a "minni parting tool cut off holder" this was intended for use on a small metal lathe. The cut off blades are less then 1/16' thick and would work on a lathe if you used a vice grip for a handle clamped to the 8mm shank. The cost is low enough to try it.

 

[Bill Alston]

I have the Firmager pictured and it’s very good for things like boxes when grain matching is important. I would like a thinner one but will have to make my own. I do have a TCT circular saw blade that I’ve been meaning to cut up for a couple of tools. I’ve found TC difficult to grind though, even with the recommended “Green” grit wheel.
I know others have used things like reshaped kitchen knives for light duty parting jobs though, so maybe that’s another option?

 

[Bill Alston]

Thinking about this further you can buy 1mm thick O1 tool steel. It’s easy to cut and shape in its supplied annealed state.
Hardening is just a matter of heating to cherry red and then quenching. Provided you only heat the cutting tip I wouldn’t bother tempering it. As such it should end up about 65 Rockwell? Obviously as it wears you may need to repeat the process though.

Time for a rummage in my metal bin for some O1 …

 

[Adrian Wilson]

Ok, thanks for the advice everyone. Not having one yet, my takeaway is the very thin tool is used more selectively than I had thought, and a stouter 1/8" is still useful. Thanks all.

 

[Richard Kuivila]

Sorby makes a fluted 1/16" parting tool that cuts a very smooth face.

 

[Bill Alston]

Ok, thanks for the advice everyone. Not having one yet, my takeaway is the very thin tool is used more selectively than I had thought, and a stouter 1/8" is still useful. Thanks all.

Parting tools aren’t just used for parting off. I, and even many professionals use parting tools for things like creating tenons. My most used parting tool is still the one I first bought, a 3/16”. I did buy a diamond section 1/8” parting tool but rarely seem to need to use it.
The thin 1/16” inch tools need to be used more carefully in my experience but come into their own as I mentioned earlier in preserving the wood for grain matching on boxes etc.

 

[Adrian Wilson]

Parting tools aren’t just used for parting off.

I'm aware. The reason for this post is I am finding my 3/16 parting tool is too big quite often. For tenons etc., I have a beading and parting tool, and two bedans that are also in the mix.

 

[hughie]

I have several used industrial power HSS hacksaw blades 1.6 -2mm in thickness, 16-18 inches in length. They make very decent parting tools after you grind the teeth off.