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The two hundred sixty-seventh "which lathe should I buy?" thread

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I am new to turning, but not woodworking, nor carpentry and related skills. I pick things up pretty quickly; after all, these are highly transferable skills.
I am focusing on buying the lathe first, due to current global market conditions. Might as well get on the backorder list now, if I do buy a new machine. Not everything is backordered either, but the Laguna lathes are, and the 18" is on my short list

I know people say "the lathe is only half the cost", but if I bought a Robust and some basic starter tools, that's not entirely correct. I could buy a HF t*rd and a nice chuck and spend over half the budget on the non-lathe. The point being made to newbies is not to forget that the lathe is not a stand-alone tool. Got it.

So the cost formula for starting The Habit is going to be [Lathe] + [sharpening tools] + [cutting tools] + [work bench and tool storage]. I probably missed something, perhaps an electrician's bill and better lighting, but let's stuff those in the last category, call it "workshop" and move on. Execution order will be as shown in my formula, with the exception that the shop is going to be built up intermittently as time and materials present themselves.

Budget: Right now I have just barely enough to buy a Revo 18|36, and that's it. I will have small amounts of money coming in regularly, so I could blow it all on that one. I just missed a good sale on the Harvey T40, which would have put me well into the second leg of the purchase.

I would be OK with a used lathe. I do still need to contact my local chapter. I have a beefy 4Runner, so I could transport something pretty significant and a few states away if I need to. "Buy a used one" sounds easy, but I am beiong sort of picky about the lathe, since it is a big chunk. I see the Harvey as a better investment than the 18|36, but I think I would rather have the 18, all else being equal. But do I prefer that? Do I know what's best for me? That's why I am here.

What am I going to turn?
Bowls, goblets, platters, boxes, and eventually hollow forms will probably grab me. I might make a chess set, just because, but spindles don't interest me much. I own a nice handmade pen and appreciate them for the skill and precision needed, but my eyes are not so great with or without my glasses, and it would likely get on my nerves. These projects are going to demand swing, +1 for the Revo.
I am going to try to make some money doing this, but I will not quit my day job just yet. :) I'm not in it for the money, but if it paid for itself, great. If it put some food on the table, even better. I have not researched this angle enough to decide whether to be serious about the prospect or if it is unrealistic for my situation.

For new lathes, I have it narrowed down to the Harvey T40, a Revo 15 or 18, and the Nova Galaxi pops onto and off the list. If I were able to get a Jet for the prices of last year, I would consider the 16" or 18" models, but for the features they have at the price points they are now, they don't compete with the T40, Revos, or Galaxi. They used to, sort of, when they were about 15% cheaper than they are now.
Grizzly is off the list. I get the impression they are flimsier, not as precise, etc. I am willing to pay for quality, but I cannot afford PM and above. I actually don't like the PM headstock geometry either. Big-Boxy Blockhead rules out most of the grizzlies too.

Galaxi first: I mentioned elsewhere that I didn't want a "computerized lathe", but that may have been vague. I got a little skittish about this with the Galaxi. I do (probably) want a VSD. I do want the catch-sensing and motor stopping from a basic VSD, and torque adjustment...maybe. I don't want it adjusting the speed to something I didn't ask for, or having to program it and all that. I am attracted to power-saving, but wonder what it does to the user experience. I know I probably don't have to use that stuff, but I will be paying for it. I also don't like having an expensive circuit board, especially if I am shunning 90% of what it does. It's another system that can fail, and an expensive one. A simpler VSD should typically have a cheaper brain, and a simpler one. I will use my car as an analogy: I cannot start it without pushing down the clutch. The car also has ABS braking. One feature is in complete control, while the other one depends on what the user is doing -- but still saves your hide. All these are great. But I do NOT want something like a $4,000 computer in my car and systems checking for lane departure (and distracting the heck out of the driver with the constant ding-ding-ding even though I am in my lane!), self-parking, and other sloth-inducing, mind-numbing or downright annoying and distracting features. I would even want to be able to bog down a VSD a little, which I think it tries to prevent (they all do, yes?). Getting feedback from an analog machine, from the tires on the road and the body sway in my MR2 to having a machine motor groan a little bit are where some of the man-machine Zen is. I would never dream of writing software that played a video game for me or watched movies for me. I don't want a lathe doing my turnings for me, and wonder if I want all the "help" that Galaxi is offering. I don't really know how much help I want at all, and apparently I want contradictory features of being able to bog the machine a little for sublime feedback, but stop me if I screw up and I'm gonna toss a piece through the wall or explode a chisel. Am I asking too much? Does Galaxi do this and other VSDs do not, or do they do it better? If I could set my own rules about when it helps me and when it doesn't, then that would be something special and worth considering.

Revo 18|36: Ouch on the purchase price here. (Galaxi hurts too, but they all will). There is a ton to love about this lathe if the banjo is as nice as they say it is, and having only two bearings is acceptable. As to the latter, they did put the two far apart, so the extra leverage is going to help, but the front bearing is still taking a lot more than a two-bearing lathe would. Otherwise, this thing looks fantastic and aside from being at the top of my price range, somewhat painfully, the only other hesitation is, yes, the customer service and some of the stories of getting dud headstocks and having to pay extra to get a replacement. To be fair, I have heard about this from Nova/Teknatool too. I hear Laguna customer service is getting better, but it still gives me pause. So this lathe has a couple of downsides, but I'm sure I'd love having one. It has plenty of swing, power and mass. I would like to hear opinions about whether steel bedwayses are better than cast iron. One gets durability and rust resistance, one is better at vibration dampening. Always a trade-off, but which one is the better trade?

T40: A couple of days ago, this lathe was $300 cheaper than a Revo 15|24. That was terrible compelling, as this looks like the best-built lathe of the three. They are giving $150 off on the legs too, which is still being offered. This machine looks to be the most solidly built of the three, with a really nice motor. The price premium is real and significant in terms of comparison/ratio, but not terribly high in absolute terms. For my turning swing will matter, but a little beast like this that I can still move would be nice too. The 15|36 Revo also has that aspect, but given that is is the same price as a T40, there is no compelling advantage to the Revo 15|36 unless you don't have 220. I do have 220, so the Revo 15 is out, T40 wins... by a lot. The rotating headstock on the T40 is something I think I would take advantage of and appreciate, but it doesn't throw the 18" Revo out of the race. This one might hold its value better than the other two, but it is also one you just wouldn't sell, and I think I could get a lot of mileage out of it before I really, truly need more swing. I will *want* more swing much sooner than I actually need it, if ever. One thing I hesitate with on the T40, however, is the wimpy-looking cantilever outboard attachment. The rest of the machine looks over-build and heavy, but that looks like a TV antenna. I might just buy a bed extension and have a braket made to let me mount it on the headstock end of the bed at an angle, or perhaps on a lockable hinge. Maybe looks are deceiving and the cantilever arm is fine. Would like to hear feedback from someone who has used one.

Thanks for reading, I hope I get some good feedback here, and more candidates in the field would be better. I could invite consideration of the Jet lathes, I might have missed something (like three bearings instead of two; I'm looking at you, Laguna). It's a tough decision and my funding is non-infinite, so I want to make it a good one.
 
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You've raised good questions, but more than I can address in one sitting. so some quick responses to a few of your inquiries.

Whether you can make money selling your work has a great deal to do with your local market. There is great demand in Hawaii and turners there can get high prices. Your area may not be as seller friendly.

The conventional wisdom here is that 16" swing is enough. Hawaii not withstanding, 12" is about the limit for what readily sells--because most shelves are 12".

You lost me with "VSD"? Did you mean VFD? Nova's system is called Digital Variable Reluctance (DVR). There is some easy setup, but you're certainly not programing anything. The DVR's have a lot of great features. I use some, but not others, personal preference. I'm very happy with mine, and no, it does not change speed on me, indeed the electronics endeavor to keep the speed constant under variable load. @Doug Freeman owns a Galaxi and may weigh in here.

I don't know much about the other lathes you mentioned. They are probably all good choices.

With the exception of Oneway and Robust, I have heard horror stories about CS with every lathe maker.
 

Dave Landers

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I don't have any of those lathes (I have an older Jet and a Powermatic) but I expect you'll be happy with anything you get - any of those lathes is going to be way better than the antique craftsman (or whatever) that a lot of us started on.

I know people with these lathes and they are generally happy with them. Most all of us have our "next lathe" on a wish list, for when we get rich and famous....

From your musings, it does sound like maybe you'd be more comfortable with a VFD (Variable Frequency Drive) than the DVR. The VFD does some frequency conversion from the 60Hz in your house, and that's what sets the motor speed. The electronics is not exactly simple, but is exceptionally common on all kinds of machines. And a VFD lathe usually has an on/off button (sometimes an extra emergency off switch) and a knob to adjust the speed - simple and direct control. And they do bog down if you "challenge" them.

I'd say your best bet is to contact your local club - someone there is going to have one or another of these lathes and will let you take a test drive. Or at least talk your ear off about what they like/don't.
 

hockenbery

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If you can take a class or hook up with a mentor from a local club you will get a real good idea of what you want in a machine, tools, sharpening equipment, and holding devices.

Campbell folk school in brass town, NC runs a lot of classes suitable for beginners.
Arrowmont in Gatlinberg, Tn has a some classes suitable for beginners.
Both a 1/2 days drive away.

At some point in our turning development we come to the realization that folks can make great work on a crappy lathe and
They can make crappy work on a great lathe.

I see too many hobbiests out there that are lathe rich and skills poor. They would be a lot happie being skills rich.
 
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I have the Galaxi. The primary reason is the pivot HS and bolt on outrigger. Its a big ergonomic improvement IMO. When hollowing a smaller bowl or hand held hollowing a hf, I really like being able to pivot the work out 15 deg or so so I dont have to lean over the bed or stick my arms way out over the bed. For large bowls, pivot the HS ~ 120 deg and use the outrigger, with any tool rest, to have full access to the bowl and put my body in any position I want. The outigger adds about 4" to the the length of the lathe footprint and no width. It tucks right in to the end of the lathe.

For sanding and buffing I can pivot the HS out 90 deg, perpendicular to the bed, dont have to bend over the bed to inspect the ID, no lathe bed in the way of the drill, and if I want to wet sand, I dont have to worry about crap getting on the ways.

It will go up to 29” outboard turning as well. The tail stock stays on the lathe to do all these processes, unlike a sliding HS where the TS must be removed and remounted, and the HS has to slide down, then back up, etc. All of the ergo aspects become more important if you have back or shoulder issues. It also depends on how you process work. If you use faceplates and don't use the TS then it can be left off the lathe. Except for the occasional large piece that I turn outboard using a faceplate, bowls and hf's start between centers.

Swing - 16" is enough for me. I have done some larger pieces, up to 20" or so (outboard). Hard to sell and hard to use - too big. I make stuff for interior use, and 14-15" is big enough. Exterior stuff of course can get large, but I have no interest.

As for the DVR motor - it was not a reason for purchase but I do like it. I do have some concern with the electronics - if something does go wrong you have to to the mfr, unlike a vfd which has much more availability of parts etc. I have had it for 4 years no problems.

Parameter setting - pretty easy to follow through the manual, they explain the functionality of the different parameters etc - not much different than a vfd. Easy to change parameters with the manual as a guide, also easy to forget how to do it and need to go back to the manual.

Catch Sensing - Overhyped IMO. Tried the various settings and it would trip and stop the lathe when I was nowhere close to needing it. On the least sensitive setting it would trip when doing a moderately heavy cut. Interrupted cuts drove it nuts. Mine stays off.

Torque setting - works very well. How closely/aggressively the PID loop tries to keep constant speed. I think my is set to the most aggressive. Lower settings allowed too much slow down, then a bit overly aggressive trying to get the speed back. Better to not let it droop as much. You still get plenty of feel in a heavy cut. One issue is with bigger pieces with interrupted cuts and imbalance, like a chain sawed bowl blank. It has to go slow due to the imbalance, ~250 rpm or so. As you start making heavier cuts, that are interrupted, the PID loop starts getting confused and ends up shutting the lathe down. Once over 300 rpm or so, it's not been a problem - the system has enough speed pulses to "keep it together". Never had a problem with a large continuous cut piece where the torque is not fluctuating so much.

Speed Presets - very nice to have, easily set by the operator (although I would need the manual to do it because once I reset them, I haven't needed to change them, and I forget how to do it - some think its a negative, I see it as a positive, once where you want it you leave it alone). About the only time I use the dial speed adjust is with bigger unbalanced pieces when 1st starting them up. Start at 100 rpm and bring up slowly to my tolerance level. After trimming and balancing, one of the preset speeds is usually where I want to be. With spindle work I never use - select a preset and go, speed up or down to another preset by pushing 2 buttons, one to select, another to confirm. There is no belt to change for speed range - 100 to 5000 rpm available when you want it.

I think the acceleration and braking are set to factory default - I can check if interested. Both work very well. I use set screws with all my chucks/faceplates as the braking is aggressive enough to spin them off. It can be reduced. I like the fast start/stop for quick inspections while working.

Pivot Headstock - you will find negative comments pertaining to pivoting HS. Most based on light cheap lathes from years ago, and related to the HS not being stiff enough. I started with the HF 34706 with pivot HS - they don't get much lighter or cheaper. It allowed me to see the benefits of the design, though. I have pretty well maxed out the size capabilities of the Galaxi and have not found the pivot HS to create any issues.

When I turn on other lathes I really miss the outrigger capability and the speed adjustment of the Galaxi. The speed adjustment I would get used to, but not having the outrigger I would not get used to.

You mention steel vs cast iron bed - no appreciable difference. They will have different resonance frequencies and sound a bit different, but the same is true of 2 different mfrs lathes of the same size. SS would be nice for turning wet wood, but.....

If you think a sliding headstock is ok you should compare the Grizzly G0766. Lot of features for the $. I haven't turned on one but I have inspected them at their showroom an hour away from me. It is far from flimsy and is a quality piece of equipment. Yes some of their older designs that haven't changed in 15-30 years are suspect vs newer designs from other mfrs, but the G0766 is a newer design that competes.

Sounds like you have a good handle on all the various costs, etc. If you can find a local club or turners to see their equipment and learn more it would help a lot. The more different sources the better - we all have our opinions and have jaded views for various reasons. The desired process drives the equipment design, as I have described. They are many ways to process items through the turning process. It can be difficult for a new turner to grasp all of that process information and make a decision.
 
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If you can take a class or hook up with a mentor from a local club you will get a real good idea of what you want in a machine, tools, sharpening equipment, and holding devices.

Campbell folk school in brass town, NC runs a lot of classes suitable for beginners.
Arrowmont in Gatlinberg, Tn has a some classes suitable for beginners.
Both a 1/2 days drive away.

At some point in our turning development we come to the realization that folks can make great work on a crappy lathe and
They can make crappy work on a great lathe.

I see too many hobbiests out there that are lathe rich and skills poor. They would be a lot happie being skills rich.

I started out on an old Craftsman lathe with the 2" tube "bedway" and a 3450 RPM motor that was WAY too fast for the pulleys that I had. Looking back, it's a wonder I didn't hurt myself. Ultimately though, that lathe was enough to make me realize how much I loved turning, and I made the decision that I was going to upgrade as soon as I could. The following spring it just so happened that Laguna was having a sale on the 1836, right after Covid really started rearing it's ugly head. So I pulled the trigger on the 220V 2HP version.
Like Hockenbery said, I was absolutely one of hobbyists who was lathe rich and skills poor, and I was absolutely making crappy work on a great lathe in the beginning!

Almost 2 years later, and after some fairly heavy turning hours, I can gladly say that I'm still very thrilled with the 1836! It's not a Robust or a Oneway but, in my opinion, for the price point that you are at, I don't think you can go wrong with the Laguna.

I've only ever had one issue with it that required a call to CS but, I can honestly say that my experience was fantastic! About a year ago, I experienced an issue where I would intermittently hit the start button, and nothing would happen. I'd have to hit the stop button, then the start button again, and it would take off. This happened probably a half-dozen times so, since it was still under warranty I called CS. The guy I spoke with was very helpful and friendly. He said it was something that he'd seen before and it was likely the switch and associated circuit board, and he was going to send me a replacement. I told myself I'd just hold onto the replacement and wait until the button completely quit working before replacing it but, for whatever reason, it has not messed up a single time since I received the new parts!

The only other complaint was the banjo requiring a lot of tension to hold the tool rest. It wasn't an issue in the beginning for me but, I the more I used it, the more I started having a problem. I saw a YT video that talked about rectifying this with a bolt used in the second hole to tighten everything up and since I did that, it hasn't been an issue.


Just my half nickel...


SB
 
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Best financial bet is to find a good used lathe. Best way to find one of them is through a local club. If you plan on turning bowls, then I would suggest 2 hp minimum and 220 volt. Bowls over about 14 inch diameter are harder to sell, so 16 to 18 inch lathes are sufficient.

As for the lathe being about half the cost, I don't think so. That may get you started if you get a good used lathe and some tools. I figure the lathe cost is 1/3 to 1/4 of the cost of every thing you will need, including chainsaw, grinder and wheels, glues, abrasives, specialty tools, finishes, dust collector which you may have. It is a vortex.....

I do have a bunch of videos up on You Tube, mostly about bowl turning.

robo hippy
 
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Speaking as a relative beginner:

I started with an HF 10x18, added a bed extension, sold that a year later, and bought a PM2014. Everything I bought for the HF was usable with my PM. By then I knew what I liked, and didn’t like about the HF, and I’d learned a lot and made many objects with the HF. Most importantly, I knew that I really enjoyed turning.

I suggest you start with a small, affordable, and preferably used lathe. Put some money into a chuck, a basic set of gouges, a grinder, and grinding fixture. YMMV.
 
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Regarding the Nova, I bought a used DVR XP near the end of their run for that model. I am the 3rd owner (that I know of) and that lathe has been excellent the entire time I have had it. There are 3 issues I have had with it, though. First, the banjo is no longer as smooth as I would like. I tore it down once and that improved it for a while, but it is back to being 'sticky' again. I hit it with silicone to keep it lubricated, but I think I may have to tear it down again. The second ongoing issue is the LCD display. I think either the control chip on the display or maybe the connectors are going wonky - random characters sometimes flash across the display. I wish I would have pulled the trigger on the upgrade board for it when I had the chance. Now I can't find them anywhere. The thirds issue I had was the spindle lock. Not sure why, but the one that was on the lathe when I bought it would work loose and start to drag on the index wheel. I would tighten it back up, it would drag again after a while. One time, I did not catch that it was starting to drag again, until it dropped into a slot on the index plate. Oh, by the way, the lathe was doing about 3000 RPM when that happened. Destroyed the index plate and the lock. Replaced both of them with parts from Nova (great support when I called them), for less than $100 (including shipping). No problems since! If I ever have to replace this one, another DVR is absolutely going to be on the short list - unless they manage to really screw it up :)

Speed stays where I put it, with in an RPM or three. I do like that it has a couple of 'presets' that you can use - I have several set to the speeds I commonly use - from less than 500 up to 3500. The speed is adjustable in 5 RPM increments from 200 up to about 4000. Not once have I regretted buying the DVR.
 
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A good way to get into the hobby is to make a package deal on a used lathe, tools and accessories. There are thousands of people heading to the retirement home over the next decade and many deals will come up on CraigsList, Facebook Marketplace, Ebay, Estate Sales and Garage Sales.
You can then barter, trade, sell the pieces you don't need and build your lathe turning tools for a lot less money. I have purchased a few lathes over the years at a good price and cleaned them up and replaced worn out components to bring the machine back to new condition and keep them or sell them as I need. I had a chance to purchase a nice Oneway lathe several years ago at an estate sale, still kicking myself for not buying it.
 
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Although I didn't attend a Jesuit school, my response is rhetorical.

You say you can afford a lathe or tools or a shop/etc. You have decided to buy a lathe as the first step. Assuming this takes all of the money you have available at this point, what is it you are going to do with a lathe and no tools?

One option, which I don't recommend, would be to delay your purchase until you can afford all that you will need and want. IMHO, a better option is to lower your cash outlay for a lathe, so that you can invest in some tools, accessories, an adequate sharpening system, and so on. Lessons are extremely valuable, but they may be available at little or no cost through your local club. I believe this strategy will mean your initial turning experiences will be much more pleasurable, efficient, and successful.

As you know, a used lathe is a very good way to get more for your money. You may have to be patient if you're going to wait for exactly the right lathe, but it will show up. As mentioned, local clubs are a great resource--somebody will know somebody in the club who has been thinking about selling their lathe but hasn't yet gotten around to pulling the trigger. As Mike points out, aging turners are an ongoing source of gear. Craigslist and Facebook marketplace are other nationally available sources for good used gear.
 
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You say you can afford a lathe or tools or a shop/etc. You have decided to buy a lathe as the first step. Assuming this takes all of the money you have available at this point, what is it you are going to do with a lathe and no tools?

One option, which I don't recommend, would be to delay your purchase until you can afford all that you will need and want. IMHO, a better option is to lower your cash outlay for a lathe, so that you can invest in some tools, accessories, an adequate sharpening system, and so on. Lessons are extremely valuable, but they may be available at little or no cost through your local club. I believe this strategy will mean your initial turning experiences will be much more pleasurable, efficient, and successful.

As you know, a used lathe is a very good way to get more for your money. You may have to be patient if you're going to wait for exactly the right lathe, but it will show up. As mentioned, local clubs are a great resource--somebody will know somebody in the club who has been thinking about selling their lathe but hasn't yet gotten around to pulling the trigger. As Mike points out, aging turners are an ongoing source of gear. Craigslist and Facebook marketplace are other nationally available sources for good used gear.

What would I do with a lathe and no tools? Admire it, of course! Believe me, I would like nothing better than to find a package deal at my price point on a decent machine in a package. I definitely want EVS (not sure where I got "VSD" either) and not Reeves or any other mechanical speed control, variable or not. I have a house to renovate in the next several months, and it will not go well domestically if I am distracted with a new toy. So I have some time I would need to refrain anyway.

I am currently looking for a used machine with goodies. As much as I think I would love that 18|36, the idea of being able to turn something in a matter of days or weeks is a lot more attractive than the current five-month back order Laguna has. I know the pandemic has been tough, supply chain blah blah blah (it is simple greed, the primary, and utterly failing tool but that's just bad business, particularly in a niche segment like this. And that in itself gives me pause. I can see four or six weeks, but 20 is just a bad look for a company. I feel bad for them if they are just getting hammered, and I do see how they wouldn't want a big stock of niche items ready to go, sitting on a shelf collecting dust.

There is a more affordable Powermatic Model 90 with a bunch of Oneway goodies, supposedly, for only $4,000. Doesn't look like a really good deal to me.

On the other end of the spectrum, there is a Delta 43-111 out there for $100. It looks sad.

And now the T40 is back down to 2K. I think it is a weird public link thing, maybe a stale page somewhere, whatever. I put it in the cart, and it is $2148 with legs. (Somebody please let me know if it is bad etiquette to post manufacturer's prices like this.) I know the 14" swing on the T40 will probably leave me wanting and probably sooner than I think, but it is unarguably a very well-built machine if the hype is accurate. Not sure why they don't make an 18" machine. Galaxi has the advanced controls, electronics I like after hearing a bit more, has a nice physical layout with the conical, rotating and sliding HS, perpendicular bed extension, and at 16" is a little more swing. I know the jump from 14 to 16 inches is significant, but I still think 14" is enough to do a lot for a long time and if I can't take it anymore, I'll sell it and I believe it will hold it's value well. I baby my gear.

Revo 18|36 is the biggest and heaviest of the three, equally as powerful as the T40, has decent enoug features and a nice design overall, but the control is on par with the T40, and Galaxi beats both of those (unless it breaks).

So it is a toss up in my estimation, but one of them is only 2/3 the price of the other two. Maybe over at Harvey they are watching this thread, desperately hoping that that one dude in NC keeps their lights on for one more day, dangling the carrot for me. Riiiight. I'm seriously tempted regardless, becasue it is a good price for something in that range, given the solid beastiness of the thing relative to it's size. If it is there over the weekend at that price, I might grab it, but I owe it to myself to contact the local and nearby chapters first, per the sound advice above.

Thanks for all the input, everyone. I am now less skittish about the Galaxi. You've helped me a great deal and I would like more input from other owners, particularly a T40 owner. I still haven't narrowed it down on the top 3, though and they keep rotating taking turns in first place. I've never had illusions about the cost of the rest of the setup, but the price is becoming more of an issue as I consider these. T40 is winning in that regard. I really need to reach out to the local chapter(s).
 
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Not sure how you came to a conclusion to totally exclude Grizzly Lathes from consideration. Years ago, some of their lathes were not state of the art, but that has changed now. I currently have 2 large Grizzly lathes in my shop, a G0800 24x48 beast of a machine, and a 22x42 G0766, which has performed as well as any of the many Powermatics I have turned on, and has a more advanced inverter [the “M” series Delta, vs. the old style “S” series for Powermatic and Jet]. It has more horsepower than the standard 3520b or 3520C model as well, although there used to be an available upgrade to 3 hp from Powermatic for the 3520b. I previously had another Grizzly lathe, the G0698 18x47, which is still going strong 16 years later at our turning club, being used all the time, without a problem reported.

I’ve turned on many lathes, doing demos, and at friends houses, even turned on Robust American Beauty, a Serious SL2542, and others. In performance, my G0800 is just as smooth, and powerful as any of them. Harvey made that unit for Grizzly, and unfortunately, they stopped making that model, and Harvey decided to keep that frame for their Turbo-60 unit. The G0800 has a 3 hp A/C motor and inverter, where the Turbo-60 has a 2 hp D/C motor with controller. The A/C motor will provide more low end torque.

When a company carries a lot of models, some to meet the budget concerned customer who cannot afford a high end machine, sometimes any customer might get frustrated when something breaks, but Grizzly also carries some truly good lathes, like the G0733 18x47, and the G0766 22x42. A lot of times a problem has been user error, not using controls as listed in the owners manual, etc. Some high end lathes will have features like a tailstock pendant, or swing away tailstock. These two Grizzly models don’t have those features, but they are way less money too. The vast majority of owners who own either of those 2 models have high praise for them. There is not a better lathe for the money on the market anywhere than those two models.
Problems do and have occurred with Powermatics, Jets, Laguna’s, …I’ve read of inverters having to be replaced, motors burning out, etc on those, so problems with the Grizzly’s are no more numerous in occurrance than with other models.

I wish the OP great success in his choice of lathe. I think sometimes opinions are based on hearsay, and one would be well advised to actually speak with a long time owner of a unit before crossing it off their list, and having experience with turning on numerous makes has a lot of merrit when it comes to properly assessing the quality and performance of the offerings that are out there. Like all of us, I have my opinions, but they are rooted in actual experience. Me personally, I’d chose one of those Grizz models over a Nova lathe any day. Some Laguna models are good, but customer service really needs to be looked at with them, and of course, Powermatic/Jet remains a reliable choice for the most part, but will cost significantly more. Warranty periods factor in to the equation as well.
I can only attest to my experience….I have zero affiliation with Grizzly, but after owning 3 of their lathes, two of which are their high end….I have been served very well by them, without problems. They have given fine performance and I would do it all over again, if needed!
 
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If you’ve never turned before, you want to get started right away and the budget is 2k, I would highly suggest using that budget for ->

- a 1-2 day local intro turning class
- bench top lathe
- decent tooling including a quality chuck
- cbn sharpening system
- blanks and project kits

As mentioned above if you buy one big machine, you’ll end up just looking at it for lack of everything else needed. Used package from someone getting out is an option, but you’ll have to bide your time and hunt around. The above is certainly available right now and will jump start you working on a bunch of fun projects. Plus bench top lathes are great for small items and most people end up keeping them around even after getting a big machine. This is what I did starting out and I have no regrets about any of the purchases except the most cheap lathe tools I bought.
 
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I'm not sure where Reidville, NC is (big long state, I know), but the last time I was in the Charlotte, NC Woodcraft around last Christmas, they had at least the floor model of the Laguna 18/36. IIRC, the Greenville, SC Woodcraft had one too. They may be gone now. Good luck, and let us know what you get.
 
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Thanks again, everyone.

Mr. Chandler, I knew you would be along eventually to champion your beloved Grizzly. I respect your opinion and appreciate the facts you bring to the table. Coming into it without experience on any of these lathes does indeed make my opinion uninformed, but it also means that I come by my biases honestly. I realize you adore your Grizzly lathes, and your bias is pretty clear and ubiquitous. That does not make you wrong, however. While it is encouraging in terms of being able to still find a G0800 for $2200 (but on some no-name online tool vendor), it is threads like this one: https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/grizzly-g0800-24-x-48-wood-lathe.14405/page-2, that also make me a little nervous. (And, I wanted to see the pissing contest, but I trust that the mod made sure there was nothing useful mixed in. Meh.) Having a source of the differences between the Harvey and the Griz "knock-off" is really helpful, so thank you. The changes/downgrades are to reduce costs, the question is whether the compromise is acceptable.

I will go see about the other Grizzly lathes made by Harvey. I don't mind adjusting the spindle with a file, but modifying the tool rest, banjo (they fixed it, yes, but how much old stock is still out there?) is not something I want to mess with. Plastic gears in the drive? Hard pass! And Griz customer service's reputation is on par with Laguna as far as I can tell. That is, it is hit or miss. I am all about value, and low-cost gems do exist out there <cough>Toyota MR2 Spyder</cough>. Usually you have to pay for gems like the PM and better (Harvey-branded machines seem to be in this group as far as I can tell), but they are still gems and provide value the old fashioned way, by being superior machines possessing high precision, durability and functionality. I am a Makita fan boi for that reason, and I make no bones about it and shill for them often, without affiliation. They are just nice tools, but they are not inexpensive relative to their [lesser] peers. So, some gems you find just laying in the dirt, so to speak -- the MR2 -- and some must be purchased with blood and the tears of children. Maybe the G0800 is one of the former, a low-cost gem, and on the surface it sure does look that way (and it is not even that ugly Griz green, bonus), and even if one has to replace a part or two without hiring a machinist, so that's enough to dig a little deeper. In that regard, thanks for chiming in. G0800 does have a wee bit more swing than a T40 and is apparently the big brother of my biggest pick. Something about the cinder-block HS on the 766 just bugs me, though. Same with the PM machines, high-class or not, but they are beyond my reach anyway.
 
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@Aaron Harris, Reidsville NC is about 15 to 20 miles NNE of Greensboro, NC. It is in Rockingham County, which borders Virginia to the north. We moved here from Greensboro, which was a great place to raise our family but is fast becoming crowded and VERY NOISY. That was one of the two big reasons I wanted to move. The other was the ability to have a shop, a cover over my car (a convertible that lived under trees for three years and got a hole poked in it by a branch not two months before we moved), and a few acres of land. Some of this modest-sized plot (for America) is a marsh, and some is wooded. I am eyeing several standing-dead trees in the marsh... so much other stuff to do first, though, and I have yet to even cross the stream or walk the woods. There are no trails yet, and it is not much wooded area anyway but there are several large wooded properties in the immediate vicinity too; I need to get out and make some friends.
 
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Hi Gerald, I wish you the very best with your search. I am not championing Grizzly, just stating that for the money, the G0733 and the G0766 are fine lathes with great value. I absolutely know their G0733, nor the G0766 does NOT have plastic gears….I have no idea where that info came from, but it is not based in fact.

I’m familiar with Reidsville, NC, as I grew up about 20 miles from there. Nice area! Best of luck with your house remodel.

Again, I have turned on Robust American Beauty, considered the Rolls Royce of lathes by many. Also what was a very high end Serious SL2542, which was until the closing of the company a couple years ago, a premium beast of a lathe coming in at around 1600 lbs. Also, I’ve turned on about 14 different Powermatic 3520b’s, and numerous Jet 1642’s. I almost got a Laguna 2436 when looking before I settled on getting the Grizz G0800. I could not be more pleased with that lathe.

I have friends in the two turning clubs I belong to that have high end lathes like the Robust AB, and Oneway 2436, plus many who own the PM 3520b, Jets, etc. Having been up close and personal with these lathes, turning on them, etc, I really appreciate their fine performance. Performance is high on my list of requirements, and all my woodworking equipment is dialed in, because that is the way I roll.

My point to all that is, an informed perspective, born out of actual experience, and not just something I heard, or someone who from years ago had a problem with some Grizzly lathe, does not represent the state of affairs at this point in time. I would encourage you to go ahead and ignore any offering from Grizzly, and since it’s your first lathe, then perhaps you will find what you’re looking for.

There were a couple of bugs that had to be worked out at the beginning of the G0766 and G0733, as Grizzly had the boss on the spindle machined to fit their chuck offerings, but a simple 5 minute fix taking off a couple thousand’ths was so easy, and made all aftermarket chucks fit perfectly. The banjo fix was addressed by grizzly, and sent to all owners who got the originals…and they did a great job with that with a beefier banjo than you find on most lathes, even high end ones.

Finally, I truly mean that I wish you the very best of luck in your lathe acquisition. I hope you are able to score a great lathe at a great value. I hope you get involved with some turning clubs, and accelerate your learning curve and skillset, and have lots of fun in the process. What I know to be the actual facts among especially Asian makes, is that they all have some issues from time to time, including the PM’s, Jet’s, Nova’s, Lagunas’s, and yes, even the Grizzly’s. But in my years of paying attention to the models, the brands, and using most of them…I have found that the Grizzly line does not have any more frequency of issues than the others. No contest of any sort meant by me. Just trying to be helpful to those who want a decent machine, and value, and trying to put out factual information, based upon personal experience, and the experience of many others who I hear from across the country. Again, best of luck!
 
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@Tom McClellan, and others: the budget is more like 4K, about 2/3 of which I have right now, and the rest will flow in over the next very few weeks.

So I could get a pretty spare-but-it-could-be-worse starter setup if I choose the T40 or something in that price range, and I'd have around $1400 left over for Necessary Goodies. Any higher gets me some more precious swing but just really chews into the Necessary Goodies fund.
 
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@Roger Chandler, no offense or contest inferred. I appreciate the input. Someone mentioned in that old thread I referenced something about plastic gears in motor. You understand how that would give someone pause. But again, it is a moot point, because there are no G0800s out there anymore and that $2200 price I quoted is dubious at best. Probably not even that good. I'm not even sure that is USD.
 
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I have never turned on a Grizzly lathe. I have one old problem with Grizzly, and that is that their tools used to be very hit and miss as in some times they were very bad, and some times very good. I believe they have addressed that issue. Other than that, I think they use the same banjo for all of their lathes, which means on the larger lathes, you need a much longer post on your tool rests. Long enough that I would be wary of turning out on the end of a long rest. No clue as to how much of an issue this really is. One advantage, to me anyway, is a 3 speed lathe. At present, only Oneway and Vicmark have this feature. I just like the mid range pulleys. Enough torque for coring, and enough speed for small bowls. My AB is one of the very early ones and has 3 speeds.

robo hippy
 
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Not true about using the same banjo on all their lathes, Reed. There are different post lengths and such with the stock rests. Some of the confusion about this may be due to the fact that early on, when I went for getting some Robust rests, that I found a length of post that included a total height, with the rest of 8.75” that would work with both my G0766 22/42 lathe and my G0800 24/48 lathe. Lots of folks asked me about this on forums and private messages/phone calls, etc, and that is where you may have gotten that impression. Different models use different length post machined into the casting on the stock rests, which are different depending on the swing of the lathe.

Also the size of the banjo on their G0733 18/47 lathe is smaller than the banjo on the G0766 22/42 lathe. The 16” swing G0632z has an even smaller banjo, and the 24/48 G0800 has a banjo that is more high end than the G0766, but they are both close in size and really heavy duty, with the clamp pate on the G0800 is machined for a 2.5”gap in the ways, whereas the G0766 has a gap of 1.5” and a smaller clamp plate.
 
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Well, I couldn't stand it anymore. I just pulled the trigger on a T40 with bed extension. Got a few dollars off for Valentine's Day.

I did make some queries to a gentleman in the local chapter, and admittedly did not allow time for an answer. I'm interested in making his acquaintance for more than just a line on a used lathe.

But while I was waiting and tossing about all night with monkey-mind for several days now, I realized that given my budget, realistically, this is simply the exact lathe I wanted and I really didn't want a used lathe -- I want a warranty, fresh bearings and bed ways, etc. If I were to get a bigger one, it would be a T60; I really dig that servo motor after seeing one run and the Laguna is just abit out of my reach.

This video was enough for me
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZTe1irbkHE&t=576s
. Yes, he stalled it, but given what he was turning and the cut he was making, I can live with it stalling under that load (and thank it for not wrecking my tool or my flesh). I'm not in such a hurry that I can't lighten up a bit. I envision my typical habit to be one of starting with green wood most of the time anyway.

If turning is going to be about the experience for me, I can give up those few large pieces to turn on a nice machine. I am quite sure the Laguna 1836 is also a nice machine, but it is simply out of my reach. This one was a stretch as it is. As they tell me over on the car forum: Buy once, cry once. And yes, I have will a lathe with no way to make a cut for a little while, but those items will be easier to acquire. Estimated ship date on this is four weeks from now.

I am going to give the bed extension a look in terms of mounting it on the left of the headstock, perpendicular to the bed or maybe even on a hinge. Doing this would not add any more stress than using their cantilever attachment, but I want a bed with a banjo. I think a simple stand-off could be fabricated if the hinge proves difficult. My son is a welder, so I am hoping I can persuade him to build me a hefty stand, maybe a bit of scrap I-beam will work. He owes me a favor right now...
 

Bill Boehme

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And yes, I have will a lathe with no way to make a cut for a little while, but those items will be easier to acquire. Estimated ship date on this is four weeks from now.
Go to the For Sale forum on this site and you can almost always find some turning tools. For example, HERE is a Robert Sorby ½" bowl gouge for $50.
 
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Congratulations! You'll love it. Now just don't get so impatient you do what a certain John (but not Lucas) from Tennessee did and try out the lathe with your bench chisels. ;)
 
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Maybe I should have held out for the 18|36.
Hahaha, just kidding. I've already looked at the thing on the website again. It was the first thing I did when I got on the computer this morning. Grrrrrr....

I have a lot to learn, a lot to do to get the workspace ready, and a good bit of supporting equipment to cobble together -- not to mention a bench or stand for the lathe -- before I can even turn my first practice spindle. I'm beginning to look for some mentoring too, but I'm incredibly busy for the next few weeks, to be followed by a period of being pretty busy for another few weeks. This probably wasn't the best timing, but that's been the same self-defeating reason I've never owned a lathe for the last 28 years. Now that I have a lot of skin in the game, it's a big impetus to see it all the way through.

I didn't really have it as a factor in my purchasing priority for the various equipment I will need, but I am just now realizing that perhaps I had a subconscious motive in buying the lathe first, knowing that if I only had a grabby-chuck or a chisel set down there "somewhere", I still wouldn't be invested enough to see it through. A nearly $3000 (shipping and tax stung a bit) higher tier lathe is a good deal more motivation. This machine is not a behemoth, but it is still big enough (I did get the bed extension) that every time I walk in that room and I am not already using that lathe or actively working towards the goal, I'll feel stupid, lazy, and ashamed of myself. Guilt is not intrinsically unhealthy unless you allow it to be, but we still can't have that, now can we? I'll give myself a break since I do have higher priorities and obligations to other people in the near term, but it will be there when that cools off and much harder to ignore. This is my ground-breaking ceremony; a strong commitment.

Seems like a good plan, loosely: Buy the stuff with a long lead time first, then prioritize the most expensive stuff, but always keep a little cash on hand for the odd $50 Sorby chisel if one pops up. OK, time for some reading and the two hundered sixty-seventh "Which chuck should I buy?" thread. I'd start thinking about a name for the lathe, but it already has one. I just don't know it yet, but it will tell me when it is ready to.
 
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Without even having a need to quantify it--the most expensive mistake i made in beginning to turn was not getting some in-person instruction/guidance/mentoring early. I'd have fewer tools, less sharpening stuff and be better equipped to expand my skill. But...it sure is fun acquiring stuff!! Videos are great, but they are not watching me and seeing the little mistakes I am making--like foot placement, balance, and how to "dance". Best wishes!!
earl
 
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Some of the bigger turning clubs have club owned lathes that members can rent out by the month for a small fee. If the club has an event, they
usually want you to bring the lathe to the event and you can take it back home after the event. Most of the club owned lathes are
usually, smaller lathes that are easy to transport to different events but are perfect for a beginning turner.
 
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