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Teaching:

Have fun. How long will you class(s) be.
When I taught the beginning bowl class at MD hall in Annapolis it was 8 meetings of 2.5 hours each.

The biggest thing - don’t try to teach them everything at once and don’t teach them things they aren’t going to use in the current class. This is sometimes difficult when you get asked questions. I try to always either answer a question or state when we will get to that in the course. A question that is way off in the weeds- I’ll tell the student to see me after class. Or once in a great while - I don’t know. With multiple classes, I sharpen all the tools in the first classes.

plan a set of exercises
Class 1 - lathe parts, safety, class traditions any lathe running face shields on. Students can’t use the bandsaw.
turn a carving mallet. 3.3x3.5x10 blank usually green wood - tools SRG, 1/2” spindle gouge, parting tool
I have each student do 2 good cuts on the demo lathe then they rough a cylinder.
Then make a parting cut to mark the handle section. They then turn beads all along the handle 1/2 spindle gouge
Smooth the handle SRG. Turn coves on the handle section, smooths the handle with the SRG
Finish turn the mallet
This gets them used to the lathe an simple tools
IMG_7477.jpeg

Class 2 rough turn a bowl 8-10 “ disc 3-4” high started on a screw.
Bowl gouge, spindle gouge (tenon), round nose scrape
I teach them to sharpen the scraper on a platform
Push cuts, scraping cut

Class 3 rough turn a bowl between centers
Teach them to sharpen bowl gouge with a jig.
Push cuts, scraping cut,
Microwave bowl

Class 4 return dried bowl. Push cuts
Shear scraping with the gouge Some sanding

Class 5 green turn a bowl
Push cut, pull cut, shear scraping

Class 6 Natural edge bowl


Classes 7,8 bowls with individual assistance. Most student turn 10” bowls
If I have a really fast learner- they will turn 3 10” bowls in a class so I give them a 12-13” blank unless they brought their own wood.
 
Have fun. How long will you class(s) be.
When I taught the beginning bowl class at MD hall in Annapolis it was 8 meetings of 2.5 hours each.

The biggest thing - don’t try to teach them everything at once and don’t teach them things they aren’t going to use in the current class. This is sometimes difficult when you get asked questions. I try to always either answer a question or state when we will get to that in the course. A question that is way off in the weeds- I’ll tell the student to see me after class. Or once in a great while - I don’t know. With multiple classes, I sharpen all the tools in the first classes.

plan a set of exercises
Class 1 - lathe parts, safety, class traditions any lathe running face shields on. Students can’t use the bandsaw.
turn a carving mallet. 3.3x3.5x10 blank usually green wood - tools SRG, 1/2” spindle gouge, parting tool
I have each student do 2 good cuts on the demo lathe then they rough a cylinder.
Then make a parting cut to mark the handle section. They then turn beads all along the handle 1/2 spindle gouge
Smooth the handle SRG. Turn coves on the handle section, smooths the handle with the SRG
Finish turn the mallet
This gets them used to the lathe an simple tools
View attachment 66452

Class 2 rough turn a bowl 8-10 “ disc 3-4” high started on a screw.
Bowl gouge, spindle gouge (tenon), round nose scrape
I teach them to sharpen the scraper on a platform
Push cuts, scraping cut

Class 3 rough turn a bowl between centers
Teach them to sharpen bowl gouge with a jig.
Push cuts, scraping cut,
Microwave bowl

Class 4 return dried bowl. Push cuts
Shear scraping with the gouge Some sanding

Class 5 green turn a bowl
Push cut, pull cut, shear scraping

Class 6 Natural edge bowl


Classes 7,8 bowls with individual assistance. Most student turn 10” bowls
If I have a really fast learner- they will turn 3 10” bowls in a class so I give them a 12-13” blank unless they brought their own wood.
Very good outline! I have taught a few individuals but never gave it much thought on how to lay out a course. I was all over the place as opposed to a systematic approach. Thanks for I will start following your lay out.
 
Thanks, this is helpful. y first class will be 2 hours, then a break ten another 2 hours.
It's only BOWL turning

The one day class is a challenge. Especially if it’s the first many have held a tool.
I’ve done 2 at wood craft. I sharpen the tools. I use an Ellsworth grind.
I started with basic safety, lathe operation. Then a 10 minute spindle exercise with a 3x3x 4-6 mounted between centers.
Putting these on the lathe before class saves time. I put lines on one face 3/8” apart. Have student cut straight in with the bevel line up with each line. Repeated 3/8” cuts from square round.
Then bevel riding cuts from center to left and center to right to get a cylinder then make a curve by staring the cut 1/2, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5 fro the end. This how I will teach them to shape bowl. Repeated cut to remove the corner 1 cut on the wide part of the bowl.
Working a few minute on a practice spindle gets them some experience.
They learn to hold the handle against their side,to roll the flute paralell to the floor. Ride bevel, and cut by shifting their weight and rotating the body. (Well they don’t really get it yet but they have done it). Lights begin to go on in a few eyes.


Then put the chuck on with a screw already in the chuck. Mount the bowl blank. This will be about 30 minutes into the class.


I much prefer doing 1 day NE bowl workshops with clubs. The student already have some skills and there are usuall assisted instructors to help any raw beginners.
 
Back in 2017 my wife and I took a class called Turn a Bowl in One Day. I think the class was 4 or 5 hours. The bowls were small, like 4" and the instructor already had these flat and roughly rounded. We used small face plates, which are easier to do "right" than a chuck (and the screws may have been self tapping? ). But what also made it work was that we used carbide scrapers. There was an introduction to gouges, etc., but with the short learning curve of carbide scrapers everyone was able to successfully make one or two small bowls. By the way, we used mineral oil and wax for the finish, so the pieces could be taken home at the end of class.
 
Back in 2017 my wife and I took a class called Turn a Bowl in One Day

But what also made it work was that we used carbide scrapers.

This is a great option for anyone experienced with carbides.

I would never teach anything I wasn’t well schooled in myself. I’ve never turned anything with just carbides.

I have never taught the skew in a class - I can use one quite well. I don’t feel I have the knowledge to correct and guide students.
I’m pretty confident with the bowl gouge and can hear most mistakes. I can tweak bevel riding with a light touch on the end of the handle.
 
David,
Al has given you good advice, from the standpoint of starting with total beginners. Do you know the experience level of the folks who will be in the class? Can you inquire ahead of time? The answers will impact your approach.

Here are some nuts and bolts things to think about, but I'm sure it's not a comprehensive list.
Will you be teaching in your own space or somewhere else? If somewhere else, go there ahead of time and make a bowl, so you learn the surprises and problems you will encounter with the students, and there will be many.

Who provides safety gear? What gear does the facility require or do you require?

What size lathes will you have? What size turners will you have? Will there be a mismatch? Maybe you'll need to have risers for the students or lathes to stand on.

What tools are you going to use? Will the students bring or will you provide? If they are bringing, you're going to spend a lot of time at the beginning dealing with poorly shaped and sharpened gouges. Best to have the gouges sharpened ahead of time. What tools other than a bowl gouge will you teach them to use, if any?

What will you have for a sharpening station? If not at your own shop, will you have a set up with which you are familiar?

What will you use for wood? Will the students bring or will you provide? Will it be green or dry? Will it be raw half logs or squares or cut circles? Circles are faster and beat up the turner less. Smaller blanks will produce a bowl faster and if you need to save time, 4-6" bowls teach all the same lessons as bigger wood. Try to get the wood ready ahead of time.

If cost is an issue, cut pieces of 2X4 or 2X6 lumber can be turned into bowls and nobody cares if they screw up. Our high school students really liked it when we started with lumber before moving on to a bowl they'd care about. Making a practice bowl and then a nice bowl will take longer, though. Have at least 2 blanks per student. Try to have defect free wood. If you're in a hurry, maybe aspen or poplar blanks would be good, as they turn easily and fast.

How will you have them mount the blanks to the lathe? Faceplates are generally safest for beginners, but take more time than other approaches. If faceplates, will there be a drill and safe screws? If using a scroll chuck, it's real helpful to have a method of sizing the tenons to fit the jaws on the chucks. (I use a piece of plywood with a semi-circle cut out for slightly larger than perfect tenon diameter.)

IME, one of the key lessons turners need to learn when starting to turn bowls is to position their feet correctly and move their trunk to make the curve. Newbies are stiff as a wooden soldier and hold the tool like it's a spear. Show them how to dance.

How will you do the bottoms of the bowls? Will you have vacuum chucks where you're teaching? If not, do you know how to use 'jam' chucks or cole jaws or whatever? Maybe prepare jam chucks ahead of time.

Are you going to do sanding during the lesson? It allows the students to make a nicer bowl, but requires time, and beginners sand a lot more than you. Who provides the sandpaper?

Are you going to put finish on the bowls? What kind? Who will provide?

There are two basic approaches to being a woodturning teacher. Neither is wrong. One teaches a basic foundation of knowledge and skills, which may not be exactly how the teacher does things, but it's safe and effective. The other teacher teaches their own specialized approach or idiosyncrasies. I know what I do with beginners--what is your approach going to be?

Finally, it's supposed to be fun. Compliment when someone does the simplest thing correctly. Laugh at the screw ups. Celebrate all those dog bowls. It can be a whole lotta fun for you, too.
 
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The one day class is a challenge. Especially if it’s the first many have held a tool.
Yes! IMO it is very important to define expected skill level for class attendees. Don’t bore some or totally overload others.

On one side I understand doing a lot of setup for students (sharpen tools, blanks mounted on lathe, etc), however, how does a student repeat the lessons at home? Repetition is the key to learning the skills - can’t repeat what you didn’t do.

I’ve seen many classes get bogged down and not be successful due to either no, or improper, screening of student skill capability.
 
Taught in a high school setting for 30 years. Best advice is to:
1. Know your audience. Just a few simple questions answered by show of hands. This can lead to some discussion as a group and you will find out about the information you are looking for. Anyone have any relatives or friends involved in woodworking?
2. Keep it simple, simple, simple.
3. Have samples of each stage of your project, visual learners love this part. Powerpoint is boring. Give them the notes, don't have them write them down, they can't retain anything if your talking while they are writing.
4. Safety in number 1. Think of them with 10 thumbs for fingers. Even if they say "I have a lathe at home".
5. They have to have something to take home finished by them not you.
6. Have an agenda clearly laid out for you and your students that is realistic for the time you have. They need to know the agenda and timelines.
7. Run through whatever you are teaching on your own and see how long it takes and if you reached your goals. Maybe even film yourself and see how you did.
This is where you will find something about yourself as a teacher. Slow it down, don't rush and you will see if you followed your agenda and had enough
time to complete your goals.
8. All opinions given in thread above should be added to the list.
9. Be prepared, they will know if you are and you will feel much better about the entire process.
10. Have fun. Name these tools. Give them nicknames.

Loved every minute of teaching all levels of ability with all students.
 
The one day class is a challenge. Especially if it’s the first many have held a tool.
I was once asked to teach a multi-day class at a crafts school. Then they told me it would be eight teens, none with turning experience.
The kicker was their PARENTS would be there with them the entire time. I declined.

I have never taught the skew in a class

I've never taught the skew to more than one person at a time - several times I had two students but worked with them one at a time, the other watching. I wouldn't know how to teach the skew without the method I use which has me at their side the entire time, suggesting, watching, correcting, and more. Haven't had one person experience a catch with dozens of these one-on-one lessons, many with beginners who had never seen a lathe before. I think I mentioned in another thread that beginners have had more trouble with a later spindle turning step, cutting coves with a spindle gouge. (This is probably because after the careful entry cut, the cove requires multiple coordinated motions.)

Once during a class and again during the break at a demo I asked if anyone in the room had never used a skew and would like a quick lesson. The point of this in the class setting was not to teach the skew to the audience, but show them (some quite experienced turners) how I go ABOUT teaching the skew to beginners, a method that has proven successful. I thought this might encourage others to try that method of teaching. (only takes 5-10 minutes)

The guys who volunteered benefited from the one-on-one lesson. The risk I took was if someone got a catch my method would be more of a joke than an education! Fortunately, all went well.
 
Yes! IMO it is very important to define expected skill level for class attendees. Don’t bore some or totally overload others.

I try when possible…..

I did a 2 day session for a club a long time ago. A ball in a ball workshop (for intermediates) and then all day demos the next day.

When i arrived for the workshop, two guys in the club I knew pretty well rushed out and apologized for having a beginner in the class. The also said they both would help him and I wouldn’t have to shortchange the rest of the class working with the beginner.
A couple more club members apologized too.

This newbie had a new box of tools from woodcraft that had never seen a grinder.

Long story short with a little bit of extra guidance from my friends he turned a nice ball.
He did a nice job of hollowing the opening on his own using my Michelson ground gouge.
With me watching and advising he enlarged the opening just right so the little ball would stick and he had a near perfect ball in a ball.

In workshops I use golf balls for the small ball. They are round and give me an edge - There are actually 3 sizes of golf balls. If they make the opening too big for the small ball they try the medium ball. Have never had a student that couldn’t fit the big ball.
 
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