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Tapered jaw vs. serrated-tooth jaw

Joined
Jul 7, 2016
Messages
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Location
Adel, IA
I am looking at purchasing a new chuck and was offered the choice of either tapered jaws or serrated-tooth jaws. Which in your opinion is better and is there any testing of one against another? Thanks.
 
Depends on what you plan to turn and also what you mean by serrated.

I like dovetail jaws for gripping tenons on bowls and small hollow forms.

The ONEWAY profile jaws that some people call serated i like for square stock and spindles.

If I had to have just one set of jaws I would probably pick the dovetail since most of my work is now NE bowls and hollow forms.
When I was doing lots of Christmas ornaments, I would have picked the ONEWAY profile.
The ONEWAY profile are probably the best all around and will work well on tenons throughout the closing range of the chuck.
Dovetail jaws work best near the closed circle diameter of the Chuck. Usually a 1/8-1/4" gap in the jaws.

Also many inexperienced turners have difficulty getting the dovetail tenon to match the dovetail of the jaws. The ONEWAY requies a right angle tenon that is easy to check with the corner of a ruler.

True serrated jaws I don't think will hold as well as the ONEWAY jaws or as well as dovetail.
al
 
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I'm a firm believer in dovetail jaws. I"ve used a lot of chucks of all brands. In my classes people bring a lot of chucks. I have never really worried about getting the exact shape of the dovetail and it's worked fine for me. I just kind of eyeball the shape. My favorite jaws they don't make anymore. Vicmarc used to make some extended jaws that were shaped sort of cone shaped on the outside. These things are really strong and best I've ever used to reduce chatter when turning ornament finials. They still make the jaws but they changed the inside shape better hold a square piece of wood. I like mine because they will hold round down to 3/8". Very handy for a lot of things. Of course that's getting off topic because you are looking for 2" standard jaws for your chucks.
 
I use dovetails for almost everything. The other benefit to them is because you arent making as much marks in the wood, I find it easier to remove a piece and put it back on the chuck with minimal issues in orientation. What do though is mark a "zero" point on the chuck and wood so that I can get it back approximately where it was. With serrated jaws I had a hard time doing that.
 
I have both Oneway chucks and Vicmarc chucks. Oneway offers both profiled jaws and dovetailed jaws. Some woodturners mistakenly refer to the profiled jaws as being serrated, but there is a big difference between those two types of jaws. Personally, I don't care for the serrated type of jaws, but I prefer the profiled jaws for most of my turning because tenon diameter isn't critical. Vicmarc offers both dovetailed jaws and serrated jaws. The place where dovetailed jaws really shine is when you have a tenon that matches the perfect circle diameter of the jaws. That is especially useful for maintaining alignment when you need to remove and reinstall the piece on the chuck.
 
I started on Oneway no.2 jaws on everything. As noted the tenon is easy to make.
Remounting pieces has always been hit or miss.
I picked up a vicmarc knockoff a couple of years ago and it sat until I was needing a chuck.
Made the dovetail tenon and it worked. And I can remount ( most of the time ).
It is pretty easy to make a tool to cut the tenon to the correct angle.
Fewer dismounts from the chuck, too. That may just be more experience 😉.
So I use either vicmarc or axminster chucks with the dovetail first and the Oneway second.
John, are you thinking of the ODonnell jaws from Axminster? They are extended 'cone' shaped jaws.
 
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