Supernova2

seafoam · Dec 3, 2012

Can anyone tell me how the safety stops work on the jaws of the Supernova 2 chuck, and if they can easily be removed? I have looked at the instructions for dismantling and cleaning, which now seems to be ridiculously complicated, but its not at all clear how this is all put together, and without a circlip tool not something I can do easily.

Richard Jones · Dec 3, 2012

The snap ring has to come off first, no other way. The rest is easy, but remember that the jaws have to go back in their original orientation.

If you buy a snap ring tool, take the chuck with you so that you get the right size. Most of the ones they sell at the auto stores are too small.

Hope this helps.

Rich

seafoam · Dec 3, 2012

Somewhat, but my prime question is if I do all that, can the safety mechanism be got rid of? On the old design it was a simple case of removing a pin, or grinding it off - it's been so long I can't remember, but I know it was pretty easy and obvious what to do. I have looked at the drawings for the sn2 and can't see how this works.

Richard Jones · Dec 4, 2012

OK, so here's a pic showing the jaw slide as it fits into the scroll. You can see that the thin part of the scroll, on the left, acts as the stop as it abuts the side of the jaw slide. I assume that one could grind that part of the jaw slide off if one was so inclined..........

seafoam · Dec 4, 2012

Thank you Richard, I appreciate your help. This is not such a simple mod as the old chuck.

Richard Jones · Dec 4, 2012

May I ask why you want to do away with the stops?

R

Michael Mills · Dec 4, 2012

There is a small screw on the top outside edge of the chuck body at the end of either the #1 or #3 jaw which can be removed (normally #1). This is what the jaw slide contacts and keeps the jaws from opening more.
You may also be able to just screw it deeper into the chuck body so it does not make contact with the jaw slide. I haven't tried that.
I would not remove it except for maintenance.

page 8
http://www.teknatool.com/products/chucks/nova/downloads/Nova Chuck Manual.pdf

seafoam · Dec 4, 2012

Richard Jones said:
May I ask why you want to do away with the stops?

R

For more flexibility. There are no jaws that will grip a 1.5" cylinder or spigot, so I use the 1" jaws with the sliders extended. I shall probably also run into problems with all the extensions I have made over the years for my cole jaws.

n7bsn · Dec 4, 2012

seafoam said:
For more flexibility. There are no jaws that will grip a 1.5" cylinder or spigot, so I use the 1" jaws with the sliders extended. I shall probably also run into problems with all the extensions I have made over the years for my cole jaws.

Have you looked at the 35 or 45 mm spigot jaws? The 35 goes down to 1.2 inches and the 45 to 1.5

MichaelMouse · Dec 4, 2012

seafoam said:
For more flexibility. There are no jaws that will grip a 1.5" cylinder or spigot, so I use the 1" jaws with the sliders extended. I shall probably also run into problems with all the extensions I have made over the years for my cole jaws.

These will. http://www.teknatool.com/products/Chuck_Accessories/75mm_longnosed.htm One of the best reasons for buying them is they can do the incredible 2x2. Second is they're long-nosed.
The jaws want to expand with rotation of the lathe, so I wouldn't take away anything that would get in the way of them becoming dental implants.

Richard Jones · Dec 4, 2012

Michael Mills said:
There is a small screw on the top outside edge of the chuck body at the end of either the #1 or #3 jaw which can be removed (normally #1). This is what the jaw slide contacts and keeps the jaws from opening more.
You may also be able to just screw it deeper into the chuck body so it does not make contact with the jaw slide. I haven't tried that.
I would not remove it except for maintenance.

page 8
http://www.teknatool.com/products/chucks/nova/downloads/Nova Chuck Manual.pdf

Michael,

The current production SN2 doesn't use this screw.

R

seafoam · Dec 4, 2012

n7bsn said:
Have you looked at the 35 or 45 mm spigot jaws? The 35 goes down to 1.2 inches and the 45 to 1.5

No, I wasn't aware of those. The 35mm looks like they will do the trick. Thanks.

seafoam · Dec 4, 2012

MichaelMouse said:
These will. http://www.teknatool.com/products/Chuck_Accessories/75mm_longnosed.htm One of the best reasons for buying them is they can do the incredible 2x2. Second is they're long-nosed.
The jaws want to expand with rotation of the lathe, so I wouldn't take away anything that would get in the way of them becoming dental implants.

They are spec'd at 1.575" min, which might work sometimes, but are a bit marginal.

What's the "the incredible 2x2" ?

n7bsn · Dec 4, 2012

seafoam said:
They are spec'd at 1.575" min, which might work sometimes, but are a bit marginal.

What's the "the incredible 2x2" ?

George (MM) might mean they grab a 2x2 great.
Those are my general "go to" jaws. they provide a great grip and give me an easier reach to the outside then the regular jaws

MichaelMouse · Dec 4, 2012

seafoam said:
They are spec'd at 1.575" min, which might work sometimes, but are a bit marginal.

What's the "the incredible 2x2" ?

The one piece of "thick" stock almost anyone can find around the house. When you rip a "new" 2x4 you get 1.5x1.625. Round the corners and the two little flats won't matter.

I own the chew jaws. Would never waste my money on 'em again. These have a redeeming dovetail available.

Supernova2

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