Suggestions for finishes in a small shop

[Damon McLaughlin]

I have a relatively small shop. When it comes time to applying finishes and letting it dry I'm having a problem with dust settling on the pieces. I use an air filtration system and it does a great job but it doesn't get 100% of the dust. I try to apply my finishes, usually danish oil (some times spray lacquer or poly) at the end of the day and let them sit over night. But when I come in the following day the surface is usually a little rough because some dust has settled on the finish while it was wet.

Taking the pieces into the house isn't an option because of odors and fumes.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to create a small dust free space so that I don't have to keep sanding and refinishing? I had thought about one of those picnic tent domes that one can put over their plates that keep the flies off, another thought was to put the piece in an unused microwave in the corner of a shop. But I don't know how effective either idea would be.

Any suggestions aside from not using the shop for days at a time while finishes are curing?

 

[Mike Brazeau]

One of our guild members who has since gone on to his eternal workshop where there is no dust, used to put a clean large cardboard box over his pieces after finishing. I presume he kept it in the house and brought into his workshop when needed. Finishes that are not applied on the lathe I do in our laundry room putting some cardboard over the washer dryer to protect . Oil finishes are usually polished after they harden so nibs are not an issue. Salad bowl finish or wipe on poly can be wiped on with a clean piece of old cotton tshirt or quality paper towel.

 

[Tim Connell]

I would try inverting a plastic storage tote over the object after finishing. I'd prop the container up on at least one edge to get some air exchange while the finish is curing. Oil finishes need oxygen to cure and completely enclosing the object (in a microwave or closed container) will slow the process.

I'd use a plastic container vs cardboard as the plastic would be easier to clean/keep clean.

 

[Mark Wollschlager]

I used to do finishing first thing in the morning before I went to work.
The shop had sat all night, I would have done my cleaning and prep the night before.
Come in spray and leave. Go to work. The work would sit undisturbed for 8 hours.

 

[Damon McLaughlin]

Thank you all for your suggestions.

I don't work so I'm in my shop every day, but I can see that routine working well otherwise. I spent the last three days teaching a bowl turning class at the nearby air force base and had been out of the shop all day. I probably should have gone in there before leaving to apply a coat of finish.

The cardboard box and and plastic tote are both things I have laying around so I will give those a try. Why I didn't think of those ideas I don't know, pretty simple and should be very effective.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

I second the idea of applying finish first thing in the morning.

Also I have found that Bartley's gel varnish seems to be relatively resistant to dust nibs. It is pudding consistency and is wiped on, wiped off and buffed. It seems to set up quickly, and I believe this is why it attracts less dust. This is a satin finish product.

 

[john lucas]

I use minwax wipe on poly. No dust problem at all. 3 or 4 coats flowed by the Beale huffing system and I'm done. Very nice finish. Not a thick plastic looking finish just a nice natural wood glossy finish.

 

[Dean Center]

For making fishing rods, which take 6-24 hours for each coat to set up, I made a very l o n g box, fitted it with puck lights which provide both light and heat, and it does a great job of keeping the dust off. There are two flip up doors on the front for access.

You could make a similar box (but not 10 feet long) in which to apply finish on bowls and such. I don't know the temperature in your shop with your current heat situation, but a little added heat could help speed the finish process which decreases chance for dust to settle and allow more coats per day, as well. 60 watts of light bulb keeps my rod box at about 78 degrees in my 64 degree basement. (Seems like I bought a Lil Chief smoker at the White Elephant years ago--that could work, too)

 

[Damon McLaughlin]

I second the idea of applying finish first thing in the morning.

Also I have found that Bartley's gel varnish seems to be relatively resistant to dust nibs. It is pudding consistency and is wiped on, wiped off and buffed. It seems to set up quickly, and I believe this is why it attracts less dust. This is a satin finish product.

Mark, I think that is a good idea too but it doesn't work in my situation. If I did my finish first thing in the morning I wouldn't be able to use the shop for the rest of the day. Thank you for the suggestion on Bartley's gel, I'll look into that.

 

[Damon McLaughlin]

For making fishing rods, which take 6-24 hours for each coat to set up, I made a very l o n g box, fitted it with puck lights which provide both light and heat, and it does a great job of keeping the dust off. There are two flip up doors on the front for access.

You could make a similar box (but not 10 feet long) in which to apply finish on bowls and such. I don't know the temperature in your shop with your current heat situation, but a little added heat could help speed the finish process which decreases chance for dust to settle and allow more coats per day, as well. 60 watts of light bulb keeps my rod box at about 78 degrees in my 64 degree basement. (Seems like I bought a Lil Chief smoker at the White Elephant years ago--that could work, too)

I keep my shop at 68 degrees 24/7 so curing temperature usually isn't a problem.

I did put danish oil on a couple of pieces and placed them under a cardboard box. Worked in the shop all day and then took a peek, they're still dust free. The box has a couple hoes near the bottom for air circulation. So far its working good.

 

[Donovan Bailey]

I have a relatively small shop. When it comes time to applying finishes and letting it dry I'm having a problem with dust settling on the pieces. I use an air filtration system and it does a great job but it doesn't get 100% of the dust. I try to apply my finishes, usually danish oil (some times spray lacquer or poly) at the end of the day and let them sit over night. But when I come in the following day the surface is usually a little rough because some dust has settled on the finish while it was wet.

Taking the pieces into the house isn't an option because of odors and fumes.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to create a small dust free space so that I don't have to keep sanding and refinishing? I had thought about one of those picnic tent domes that one can put over their plates that keep the flies off, another thought was to put the piece in an unused microwave in the corner of a shop. But I don't know how effective either idea would be.

Any suggestions aside from not using the shop for days at a time while finishes are curing?

If you are using an oil finish, then you can forget about the dust if you Beal buff the piece after it dries. The buff is perfect for removing minor surface blemishes like dust specks. Try it and tell me what you think.

 

[Damon McLaughlin]

Donovan, thank you for the suggestion. I do use oil finishes. Not all of my pieces are buffed but when I have a piece I know that I'm going to buff I'll try not to OCD about a little dust.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

I don't understand what the problem is if you are using danish oil since it is a penetrating finish that is best done by flooding the surface, letting is soak in, wet sanding with the oil as a lubricant, wiping and leave set for a couple of days then lightly sand the surface and do it over again. Caution don't forget to dispose of the wiping rags they can spontaneously combust. The dust that settles on the piece during the drying process will not stick. The key to getting enough on is when the end grain areas stop absorbing the oil or in other words the wet look covers the entire piece. After the last coat has set sand lightly and apply a quality wax.

 

[Damon McLaughlin]

Don, I've been using danish oil for three years and do what you suggested (flooding, wiping etc...), except I do not wet sand. Because I have a small shop my lathe and other dust creating tools are all within eight feet of where my pieces are set to dry. If I'm turning, sanding or cutting wood there is a fair amount of dust moving around and what isn't captured by the dust collector or air filtration system eventually settles on my pieces. When touching the pieces a day or two later it feels rough and I'm probably being a bit OCD about it. Steel wood usually works well for getting the nubs off before the next coat but I was just hoping to avoid all those dust nubs. The cardboard box as suggested above has been working out great.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

Don, I've been using danish oil for three years and do what you suggested (flooding, wiping etc...), except I do not wet sand. Because I have a small shop my lathe and other dust creating tools are all within eight feet of where my pieces are set to dry. If I'm turning, sanding or cutting wood there is a fair amount of dust moving around and what isn't captured by the dust collector or air filtration system eventually settles on my pieces. When touching the pieces a day or two later it feels rough and I'm probably being a bit OCD about it. Steel wood usually works well for getting the nubs off before the next coat but I was just hoping to avoid all those dust nubs. The cardboard box as suggested above has been working out great.

The roughness is the wood grain rising from the oil which is why I said to sand lightly before applying the next coat. When I first started using Watco Oil about 35 years ago the directions I detailed above were right on the can.

 

[Damon McLaughlin]

Don, I do lightly sand after the first coat to knock down the raised grain at which time the surface is as smooth as can be with no raised grain or nubs. I too have been following the directions from the can for the past three plus years. Because I use danish oil on an almost daily basis I can say with confidence its not raised grain. I can say with confidence that because I'm creating sanding dust and shavings within feet of where my pieces dry that its stuff settling on the piece. The cardboard box suggestion above has eliminated the issue I've been having. I appreciate the thought though.

Damon