Johnathan Silwones is starting a new AAW chapter, Southern Alleghenies Woodturners, in Johnstown, PA. (click here for details)
Congratulations to Peter Jacobson for "Red Winged Burl Bowl" being selected as Turning of the Week for April 29, 2024
(click here for details)
Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.
I just turned my first Aussie burl, and are they tough! Anyway, 4 out of 6 wood screws broke when I was trying to unscrew the work piece from the face plate. So my question is - what should I use as a stronger screw than your run of the mill wood screws? Any advice appreciated. Cheers.
After shearing off the head on a wood screw a while back, I switched to hex-head sheet-metal screws for faceplate work and haven't had a problem since.
I'm a little confused, Dave. Your broke the screws "unscrewing" (removing) them from the face plate?
That'd mean their holding better; too much better. If that's the case you might want to try rubbing the screws across a bar of soap or buying some of that wood screw lubricant that McFeely's and others sell.
I use coarse thread sheet metal screws that just fit the face plate holes and reach just deep enough to pass a distance into the work equal to the thickness of the face plate.
Size of the pilot hole makes a big difference if you're using standard smooth-shank tapered wood screws. They have the largest section presented against shear, which shouldn't be a problem anyway, but they're softer stuff. Use the tapered drills for best fit, use beeswax (toilet gasket) on the screws to protect them from corroding into place, and set the clutch on your power driver a bit lower so you'll slip rather than twist the screws off while inserting.
If the mounting holes in your faceplate aren't tapered, use pan-head sheet metal screws, as suggested, but by all means give them a wax to help ease the way. Of course, you could buy a nice Bosch 18V hammer/drill for optimum driving. I know a guy who just got one, and it's nice!
Avoid straight drive, Phillips is better, but Robertson or Torx would be the most positive.
I use square drive mild steel screws and drive them with a nut runner by Makita. They won't strip out the head and can drive them without pilot holes. This tool is made for running in fasteners, nothing else. Black & Decker makes a firestorm version, available at Lowes, but it's half as strong as the Makita. Just remember, drywall screws are for drywall, nothing else.
All ya gotta dew is trot on down to your local ACE Hardware store, and tell them what you want to do. They are KOOL!!! Definitely go with square drive or star drive. Also go with self-threading. I use square drive, 1" long in solid wood, 1 1/2" long in real soft wood or long stock (vases, etc.). Plus, you will buy it now, no waiting or paying for shipping. Plus.. remember...put a screw in EVERY hole in the faceplate!!!! :cool2: :cool2:
Key points seem to be the pilot holes and lubrication. Easier to screw into those aussie burls than out. Screw heats them up as it goes in and softens the resins that are so prevalent. Drying and cooling tighten up the screws well beyond what you or I could do to remove them. Wax will not set up the same way and the pilot hole will give you just as much hold power without the catch. After all, we're not trying to prevent the screw from unscrewing, just from tearing out.
and not just those burls. Happens to most of us intermittantly.
What caused them to shear was at the very least rooted in your driving. Metal fatigue. Almost willing to bet that some were merely wedged short pieces before you tried to back them out.
Easing their way in is the way to avoid problems. Getting a drive pattern less vulnerable to cam-out should not be taken as license to do without pilot holes or thread lubrication.
One bad point about sheet metal screws which deserves mention. With threads all the way up their length they will pick up wood at the surface and create a bit of a pad between the faceplate and the piece, which can lead to wobble if you're hogging heavily or catch. Smooth shanked woodscrews are less prone. Can happen even if you drill, or shall we say "pre-drill" as Norm does, with a bit smaller than the main stem thickness of the screw.
Word of advice with square drive screws. The garden variety, when hot-dip galvanized, will have enough zinc in the hole to prevent you from getting the proper driver in deep enough, without adding enough soft metal to get a grip with the smaller size. :mad:
Great discussion. I stopped by the borg last night and bought some #10, square drive, stainless steel screws in 1", 1.25", and 1.5" lengths. They certainly appear a lot stronger than the standard wood screws I was using. I am pretty sure that combined with a pilot hole, they will solve my problem.
Thanks again for all the input. Now bring on that burl!
I understand this is happening when you unscrew them, but maybe try another type of screw. I switched a while back to using particleboard screws vs regular wood screws. They hold well adn are much tougher than regular wood screws. I have yet to twist one off so they've been good to me.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
