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Stihl chain saw woes

G

Gretch Flo

Joined
Jun 9, 2004
Messages
1,223
Likes
49
Location
Haslett, Michigan
A couple of years ago there was a topic about saws.
I had a 290 Stihl for several years that worked fine. Then I "upgraded" for a second saw to a ?280. After a year I could hardly pull the rip cord. They "blew out carbon " and it worked much better-for another season-then the same thing-I think they no longer are making that saw. I traded it in
Per others suggestion I got an "easy start"-250. Loved the way it started. 18" bar is really 17". This spring I couldn't get the chain tight. Took it in and they did, later same thing. Took it in, and the wheel tightener had been bent-how?? Possibly with the ripping ribbons clogging I'd guess. They said they didn';t know why it bent. Replaced that and the cover-owner didn't like the plastic tabs-half broken. The oil cap earlier has issues seating it and they gave me a new cap-said there had been some problems with it. The new one =same thing You have to get it exactly in place before twisting on (11:30 ). Recently the primer bulb broke-just replaced.\All Under warrantee.
My old trusty 290 was developing starting (rip cord) issues last fall, and I had them blow out the carbon-didn't help that much. I loaned the saw to a neighbor, and recently after my using it 5-6 times, the handle brake was loosened. They said the whole thing had cracked and was going to cost $240 to fix that one. (they said there had to have been some trauma to it-neighbor was cutting a 36 diameter tree-imagine it occurred there as I have not had the brake slam into the housing)
New one was $350. So I bought a new one 6 days ago. Tried to start it and I could hardly pull the cord-finally used it one tank of gas. Took it back and of course strong men could start it. They tried to show me how to pull it between the legs-I don't have that kind of strength. I wonder why the "same" saw-new-is so much harder to start than my old 290???-.
So I bit the bullet and swapped the new one for a new one with with decompression valve-"easy start" -$600-with 20" bar . It is a new model-291. I hope I don't have issues like the other "easy start" with little things breaking!!!!! It comes in next week. The bigger saws (like mine) are made in ? W. Virginia, smaller ones in Germany. I have 12 chains for the 290 and they can take out links for the 250. This summer has been a bear for machinery-2 year old "lemon" cub cadet lawn mower(faulty fuel pump, hood that fell of, belt came off pulley ruining it, needed a new battery within a year, , belt came off 4 times a few weeks ago and finally they put on new pulleys 2 weeks ago-under waurentee , new refurbished mantis minitiller-took it in 6-7 times for carburator adjustments-finally bought a 4 cycle-owner took my lemon home to use, and I'm just waiting to hear if he used the language I used!!😱Gretch
 
Gretch, I have a Stihl 045 I picked up in a pawn shop over 25 years ago. Used it to cut firewood mostly back then. A year ago it went into the shop to replace the check valve on the chain oiler/crankcase. Ran the thing for about 6 months and now the valve is leaking again. In order to keep oil in the saw, I have to fill it a quarter up saw some, stop fill a quarter. A real pain. I can't afford a new saw at this time so I have to use it as is.
Good luck with your new saw.
 
I'm curious if they're now made overseas like so many other things today? Could it be quality is suffering?

I have an older 025 that works fine. I had to replace the oil pump but don't consider that anything than normal wear and tear.

Loggers around here have used Stihl for a long time. Wonder what's going on?
 
I've three - a 250 like yours, a 260 and an old 310. I'm selling the 310 as I hardly ever use it at all - got it to split large logs (25" bar), but the 260 works better with the newer style chain. Both the 250 (18") and 260 (20") get moderate use. I vastly prefer the 260 as they weigh the same but the larger one has twice the power. Both have had oil and gas cap problems and the 260's gas line cracked once, otherwise no problems and they both will cut wood faster than any other saw I've ever used. Stihl sent me four new caps when I complained about the cap issues after buying two or three over the years. I've not had any of the problems you wrote about with the 250, though I wish I'd just gotten a standard one to save weight. I'm getting too old to handle the extra four or so pounds and do a lot of yard work and branch trimming.

Forgot to add that years back someone told me to use premium to make starting easier. I've not had any carbon issues since and all my 2-cycle stuff starts easier. Since I go thorough not much more than three gallons a year, it's worth it!
 
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Newer not necessarily better. The new standards are killing the folks who work in the woods here. One jobber says that they are set so lean (Huskies, but Stihl no doubt) that they burn right out. His crew has five, replaced three.

Other thing is to watch the gas. About half our local stations use the 91 premium with no ethanol rather than the 93 or 94. They proudly advertise it, because so many people have chainsaws. It's what I use.
 
One other thing to consider is an electric chain saw.

I have a Stihl MS260 and recently picked up a couple of electrics (an MSE140 and an MSE180) on craigslist at prices I couldn't refuse.

I used the MSE140 yesterday to do some branches that came down in a storm, and it worked beautifully.

A day before the storm hit, I also purchased a Honda 2000i inverter generator. At 48lbs and quiet with long run time, it seems like a pretty good pairing with electric chainsaws where electricity might not be available.

So, more options, more toys.
 
Gasoline

Other thing is to watch the gas. About half our local stations use the 91 premium with no ethanol rather than the 93 or 94. They proudly advertise it, because so many people have chainsaws. It's what I use.[/QUOTE]

A few years ago I was having carburator issues with log splitter and rototillers. Green stuff in the gas lines. They finally figured out it was the ethanol in the gas. So Stabil company came out with an additive- ?"Startron". The ethanol settles. I think this stuff is made to "bind" it (not sure of the language) I add that to the cans of gas I get for all the engines I have. My fix it place told me 2 years ago that I don't need to go to a higher test gasoline now with this additive. It cost $7 to add to 48 gal of gas. Haven't had any issues with it (unless the "new" 2 cycle minitiller problems holding the carburator adjustments was gas relate)
Dave-I asked where the Stihls were made. Smaller ones in Germany, larger ones in W. Virginia. I guess that doesn't mean the parts are from China or other suspect area.
Walt-the new oil caps has been an issue for the newer saws. I got a new cap and same problem. Figured out that if you put the cap white/black junction at 11:30 and push straight down, it works fine. Before that it might take me 10 min to get the darned thing on right!!!!!! Gretch
 
Stijl has a recall on the caps. I got the notice about 3-4 months ago. I can scan it for anyone who needs it.
 
I know that chainsaw company's have been forced to design their saws to meet the new EPA standards and it has hurt their performance a bit. I looked around last year until I found a new Husky 372xp that was of husky's old tried and true design, before the new standard. It is unreal to cut with this saw, but it didn't come cheap. I think if one can find either stihl or husky of the older design it will have more power and the newer designed saws may still have some bugs to work out in the future.
Jack
 
If you read the Stihl recall, it has to do with gasket deterioration - at least mine said so. Ethanol.
 
MichaelMouse said:
Newer not necessarily better. The new standards are killing the folks who work in the woods here. One jobber says that they are set so lean (Huskies, but Stihl no doubt) that they burn right out. His crew has five, replaced three.

Other thing is to watch the gas. About half our local stations use the 91 premium with no ethanol rather than the 93 or 94. They proudly advertise it, because so many people have chainsaws. It's what I use.
Click to expand...

It's very true that many/most saws that were sold in the last 10 yrs have come set crazy lean from the factory. It us all over the map in terms of WOT rpm.

I really advise sawowners to borrow/buy a good small motor tach and check the WOT rpm. Warmed up and clean air filter.

I have a lot of saws, and pretty much all of them came set too lean and I had to remove/modify the carb adjustment screw stops. From little redmaxes to my 880, all need attention. That is one of the disadvantages of a fixed carb (like my 3120's) is that it requires changing or modding the jets themselves which can be inconvenient.

If you read the big saw forums (like arboristsite.com), in the serious saw world that is considered standard procedure and has been for some time.

You can search that forum and likely find tips on how to "adjust" your make of Stihl, Husky or Dolmar.
 
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One thing about Bill Luce. He does not get into anything half assed. I have sat in on a class of his about saws and shared beers over saw talk. He knows more about saws than I would dare say most of us. So much for giving bill Kudos. I also have never sharpened my blades as sharp as Bill likes his.
I get a bit fanatical about cleaning my saws. I also use them from sea level to about 7 thousand ft. They need adjusting from one to the other. I just follow what the manuel says about adjusting the carb. The only gas without ethanol here is at the boat harbor in Kona. To many guys saws have burned up because of the ethanol mix. My Huskey 061 I got in 87. Still a great saw. But getting very heavy as I age. My XP72(?) is a great saw across a log but in planning cuts clogs quick and bad. My Stil I loaned to a fellow turner with a reputation for breaking anything he touches. He trashed it. I could not believe it. A great saw, never gave me a lick of trouble. I got a few I told you so's. From other suckers.
 
Plastic Pegs

Gretch

You mentioned the little plastic peg on the sprocket cover. Do not use your saw without that in place. If the chain is to come off the bar that silly little peg will stop the rotation of the chain. I cut clearence in the cover for chips to get out when ripping. My saw shop owner did not like that at all but pointed out the plastic peg and told me what it did. Later that summer while cutting a clump of suckers off an old stump the chain got pinch and came off bar as I pulled it free. The chain whack me across the insdie of my right leg just below knee. The whack from a chain that was stopped by that peg (peg destroyed) left what I called scratches that looked like a grizzley bear took a swipe at me. Probably should have got a stich or two in each of the four entry wounds but I didn't because after all I was refering to them as scratches. Silly little peg probably saved my leg. Pride took a dent but that gets whack pretty regularly and recovers.

I have the 240 (18") and the 290 (25") Stihls. Both need a new fuel filter each spring as does my Stihl string trimmer then all run great.

I wish you better luck with your tools.
 
The recall had to do with the size. Some caps stick and are hard to pull out. We had 2 seedeaters that had that problem. The cap has a letter on it (E I think) and the new ones have a different letter. I'll check the recall notice tomorrow in the office.
 
Thanks, Frank

Frank Kobilsek said:
Gretch

You mentioned the little plastic peg on the sprocket cover. Do not use your saw without that in place. If the chain is to come off the bar that silly little peg will stop the rotation of the chain. I cut clearence in the cover for chips to get out when ripping. My saw shop owner did not like that at all but pointed out the plastic peg and told me what it did. Later that summer while cutting a clump of suckers off an old stump the chain got pinch and came off bar as I pulled it free. The chain whack me across the insdie of my right leg just below knee. The whack from a chain that was stopped by that peg (peg destroyed) left what I called scratches that looked like a grizzley bear took a swipe at me. Probably should have got a stich or two in each of the four entry wounds but I didn't because after all I was refering to them as scratches. Silly little peg probably saved my leg. Pride took a dent but that gets whack pretty regularly and recovers.

I have the 240 (18") and the 290 (25") Stihls. Both need a new fuel filter each spring as does my Stihl string trimmer then all run great.

I wish you better luck with your tools.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up. I had a chain come off years ago but the cover kept it in "check". As far a clogging from ripping ("shredded wheat"), I try to remind my self to lift up a little on the bar/chain and let the running chain clear the shreds. Occasionally with an 1/8th" to go I get it jammed with the shreads!!!! I suspect that was the cause of my new 250 bending the chain tensioner dial.
Quality of saws. I guess this is inherent with our outsourcing!!!!! Gretch
 
I bought my first Stihl saw in the mid 70's. It was an 031 model. I can't even begin to remember how much firewood that saw cut. I eventually felled a tree on it which drove it into the soft ground under the weight of the trunk. It still ran but the housing was broken and the top handle was bent pretty bad. I gave up heating with wood and the saw sat in my garage for a long time until I gave it to a friend at work. He took it into a Stihl dealer and got the broken and bent parts replaced, got it turned up, and he's still using it today. I wish I still had it because it was much more powerful than the 029 Farmboss I use now for cutting turning wood. But this thread got me thinking about it because of the comments about outsourcing. My first saw was built in Germany, I think my current saw is an "outsourced" model made in the USA. But from what I have read on this website http://www.stihlusa.com/corporate/history-company.html I think the typical concept of outsourcing that we often relate to "made in China" hasn't happened with Stihl. But I could be wrong.
 
Brian McInturff said:
The recall had to do with the size. Some caps stick and are hard to pull out. We had 2 seedeaters that had that problem. The cap has a letter on it (E I think) and the new ones have a different letter. I'll check the recall notice tomorrow in the office.
Click to expand...

Mine was for a Kombi head. Probably the same beef, since it makes no sense to have a dozen varieties of cap out there. Said something about possible gas leaks developing. May have assumed the rest rather than read it. My saw is somewhat older.

I like the Kombi, BTW. Great limbing saw for maintaining my paths through the woods, and I even used the little cultivator to prepare the rows for fine seed in the garden. Much finer soil than the disc leaves. I also have the trimmer and the sickle bar.
 
KellyDunn said:
One thing about Bill Luce. He does not get into anything half assed. I have sat in on a class of his about saws and shared beers over saw talk. He knows more about saws than I would dare say most of us. So much for giving bill Kudos. I also have never sharpened my blades as sharp as Bill likes his.
I get a bit fanatical about cleaning my saws. I also use them from sea level to about 7 thousand ft. They need adjusting from one to the other. I just follow what the manuel says about adjusting the carb. The only gas without ethanol here is at the boat harbor in Kona. To many guys saws have burned up because of the ethanol mix. My Huskey 061 I got in 87. Still a great saw. But getting very heavy as I age. My XP72(?) is a great saw across a log but in planning cuts clogs quick and bad. My Stil I loaned to a fellow turner with a reputation for breaking anything he touches. He trashed it. I could not believe it. A great saw, never gave me a lick of trouble. I got a few I told you so's. From other suckers.
Click to expand...

Conventional wisdom is that to loan a saw is to in a sense give it away....


I no longer admit how many saws I own. And now that I am using hydraulic saws gas saws seem inexpensive anyway.


Actually I have a nice 371xp on infinite loan to my buddy Dave S. because I replaced it and felt he could better use it. And I periodically leave him bar and mix oil so I know he will be using good stuff.

My favorite noodlers are my 7900's. It's all about torque, the right chain (I run square ground), technique and the saw's chip direction in terms of shavings stream.

Here's a vid I did a couple years ago just to demonstrate my setup. I just grabbed the closed piece of offcut wood, and have meant to reshoot it with a bigger and flatter (on the bottom) piece where I could really rock and roll.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1LkEV9DEuLs
 
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I have a Stihl 440 mag with the easy start, picked it up off Craigslist for $300. I doubt it had 5 hours on it. Had it checked out and put a 24" bar and chain on it as I didn't like the feel of the 32" that was on it. I'm looking for a 18" one of these days. I talked to our local expert Dave B. and he and others warned me about the ethanol problem. I don't spend everyday with it so I don't mind paying for the premixed fuel in the can. I've started using the gas treatment they have at HD and all my yard equipment works much better. We just cut up some Florida Rose wood along I-4 for our club and it worked great. 8 guys 2 trucks 2 chainsaws and 20 min. 8 trees 16" + saved from the chipper. Gretch hope your new one works as well as mine.
 
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chainsaw

Has anyone had experience with Dolmars? I use a husky 16" electric in the shop and am thinking about buying a small 2kw-2.2kw generator to run it when I want to go out to get some wood.

Ed
 
Don't know about Dolmars, or using an electric saw regularly, but I'd really recommend one of those small inverter generators for anyone using electric tools out and about - your neighbors certainly won't complain! I've two Yamaha 2300 types that I can gang together to run our travel trailer (gives 30 amps), or use one for demonstrating along with running fans at craft shows. The inverter types are very quiet and no on complains about them - Yamaha, Honda, Robins-Subaru all make them for certain.
 
Bill Luce said:
It's very true that many/most saws that were sold in the last 10 yrs have come set crazy lean from the factory. It us all over the map in terms of WOT rpm.

I really advise sawowners to borrow/buy a good small motor tach and check the WOT rpm. Warmed up and clean air filter.

I have a lot of saws, and pretty much all of them came set too lean and I had to remove/modify the carb adjustment screw stops. From little redmaxes to my 880, all need attention. That is one of the disadvantages of a fixed carb (like my 3120's) is that it requires changing or modding the jets themselves which can be inconvenient.

If you read the big saw forums (like arboristsite.com), in the serious saw world that is considered standard procedure and has been for some time.

You can search that forum and likely find tips on how to "adjust" your make of Stihl, Husky or Dolmar.
Click to expand...

I have 2 ms361's and they work great. I have done exactly as Bill has recommended here. I had already modded the 1 361 and purchased the 2nd when they were being closed out. Modded the 2nd right after break-in. Best thing I have ever done. Have no problems with either of them. I do sharpen my own chains in between professional sharpenings. The arborist site Bill talks of is well worth the read and experience.
 
Here's for the 361's

Dale Jablonski said:
I've had my 361 for 5 years or so and use it for getting firewood, turning wood and doing fire hazard reduction work. Never had a bit of problem with it and it gets alot of use.
Click to expand...

Dale, I totally agree and the reason why I purchased the last one in Houston when I found out they were closing it out. Great saws for sure! I have 20" bar on one and 24" on the other. I do not loan them out however! Not good practice at all.😱
 
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