Steady rest

[Emiliano Achaval]

I'm thinking of building a steady rest. I have all you need to weld and cut metals. Anybody knows where I can find some drawings, dimensions, etc. I have a stubby S750 lathe... Thank yo for the help. Aloha from Maui

 

[john lucas]

Just do a google search. There are all sorts of plans for different styles.

 

[Pete Blair]

Steady

I'm thinking of building a steady rest. I have all you need to weld and cut metals. Anybody knows where I can find some drawings, dimensions, etc. I have a stubby S750 lathe... Thank yo for the help. Aloha from Maui

Mine's not welded but seems to work pretty well. If you take a look you will see that I left out a section so my laser is not interrupted.
https://woodbowlsandthings.wordpress.com/2012/12/22/lathe-steady/
I hope it's alright to post this link. If not I apologize and would appreciate it if the powers that be remove it for me.
Thanks!

 

[Dwight R Rutherford]

Here is a PDF of the Jeff Nicol steady rest that many have used;
http://www.tnvalleywoodclub.org/plans/Steadyrest by JDC.pdf

 

[Bill Boehme]

For the ring you can use a HVAC wall flange which is available from McMaster-Carr. You can find a detailed set of plans on Sawmill Creek. If memory serves me correctly, James Combs is the author of the article.

EDIT: I found the article on Sawmill Creek in zipped PDF format. It's located HERE in the Woodworking Articles and Reviews forum on the "Creek". I believe that you must be a Contributor to view articles in that forum. If you PM James Combs on Sawmill Creek, he might be kind enough to email his article to you. Here is a link to the rings at McMaster-Carr. the engineering drawings in the 20 page article aren't scalable vector graphics, but James was kind enough to send me drawings that are scalable. In the end, I decided to get a Robust steady rest that was a perfect fit for my Robust lathe. It was more expensive than going the the DIY route, but it saved me a lot of time and besides the Robust steady rest really is robust ... it is massive and rock solid although I am sure that the DIY variety is good enough.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Here is a PDF of the Jeff Nicol steady rest that many have used;
http://www.tnvalleywoodclub.org/plans/Steadyrest by JDC.pdf

I just now noticed that the PDF you posted is the same as what I was referring to ... and your version doesn't require going through all the hoops that mine has. Emiliano might still want to contact James if he wants to get a better copy of the drawings.

 

[Joe Greiner]

Topless Steady Rest

Here's one that I recently made:

http://www.n-fl-woodturners.org/dnn/ShowNTell.aspx#

Click 2016, then click February
Scroll down about 20 images to my "topless steady rest," and click the thumbnail to enlarge.

Obviously, this is a mockup for photography.

Like Pete's, the "topless" is to eliminate the blind spot for a laser.

I've since raised the upper trunnion to clear the largest turning.
There are three trunnion locations for each of the lower arms, for different sizes. There are external tooth lock washers on all 6 faying surfaces to enhance purchase against rotation of the arms.

It mounts below the bed for maximum capacity.

 

[JeffSmith]

Here is a PDF of the Jeff Nicol steady rest that many have used;
http://www.tnvalleywoodclub.org/plans/Steadyrest by JDC.pdf

Built mine from these plans, with a few modifications. It works well, the build was relatively simple even for one whose welding skills have not developed since a week-long exposure in college over 40 years ago. Didn't even require specialized cutting tools beyond what I had available - angle grinder, hack saw, jig saw.

I did eliminate one of the wheels - three works fine for me, and offset all by about 7 degrees to allow clearance for a laser/camera above the cutter.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Here's one that I recently made...

Here is a direct link for the lazier among us (that would include me): http://imgsrv.n-fl-woodturners.org/Images/2016-02/2016-02-18.jpg

 

[Joe Greiner]

Here is a direct link for the lazier among us (that would include me): http://imgsrv.n-fl-woodturners.org/Images/2016-02/2016-02-18.jpg

Included me too.

 

[Zach LaPerriere]

Probably not what you're looking for, but... Ernie Conover has plans for a plywood steady rest for smaller spindle work in The Lathe Book. It's held to the lathe and secured with wedges. Looks pretty fun.

 

[Odie]

Something to consider here, is after using a big specially built steady rest for 5+ years, I've determined they aren't as good as theory would indicate. Useful, for sure, and well worth having one.......but all bowls, vases, etc., will warp. Compounding the problem is sanding will also work against geometric integrity. Wheels that are soft and supple work best......but, these are designed to be skate wheels and although they do have some give and take, a bit more ability to conform would be better. (I think! 😛) Wheels should be "tracked" so that they run true.....any variance will mean the mating surface between wheel and wood will skid.

ko

 

[Odie]

Note:

Although, the large bowl steady works to reduce vibrations, I also use a Oneway bowl steady for most all applications where I feel some amount of steadying is necessary. My lathe capacity is 16", and not as large as some here will turn on their lathes.....however, I've found that the larger the diameter, and the deeper the bowl, combined with a desire to get as thin wall as possible, the more value the larger bowl steady can be to success toward your goals. This, when a fine finish on the interior is a requirement. (Unlike some hollow forms, where thinness may be a goal, but the internal walls aren't a priority for a finely crafted flawless finish.)

Shown is the Oneway bowl steady with a special jig designed to aid in adding washers, in order to have both wheels track on the same line. The other photo shows a better photo of the larger bowl steady, with the OBS in the background. This bowl steady was made to my specifications.....5-wheels that can be positioned on 9 receptacles. I can choose 3,4,or 5 wheels and position them accordingly to allow opposing pressure, equalized circumferential pressure, and best tool access. (I may have been over-thinking this, but the big bowl steady does very well for the purpose. 😱)

At a previous time, I've encountered opposition to the notion that a bowl steady can help with the fineness of the tool finish. Well.....I guess that person and I will have to agree to disagree on that point.....and, as always, the basis for my beliefs on this are as always.......the only thing that matters is the results, and in my case, anything that reduces the amount of sanding leads to geometric integrity. This is that which makes the details more aesthetic to the eye, and my "style" includes a lot of detail work that require a minimum of variance from geometric perfection.

ko

 

[Raul McCai]

I built an open version from 2" sq x .25"thick steel on a 3/8" plate. IT's heavy as hell but The design can still support sympathetic vibration of an imbalanced load. I may end up having to close it up.
I didn't use roller blade wheels I used 56mm Skateboard wheels and supported the wheels on either end.


Here's a pic of it in process
http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums...e steady rest/Steady rest-000_zpsxiabx6ke.jpg