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Snakewood guidelines

Joined
Jun 8, 2004
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I hear all kinds of confilicting reports on process for turning snakewood.

Boiling, High speed, low speed, scrape only, skew only....

Now I know that turning is objective, but who has had success with snakewood, and what "tricks" did you use.

Thanks. I am thinking of investing in some and want to make sure to get a product from the wood.
 
If it's green you're going to treat it alot different than dried.

Dried, use very sharp tools and turn it like you would any other with maybe a little more care added due to it's expense.

If green, I'd also treat it like any green wood and consider milling it, drying it, or turning blanks and drying them using any of the variety of methods including boiling, alcohol, soap, whateva.

dietrich
 
Thank you.

I was wondering about why it was being boiled. I have had good luck with the soap method, so I may try that.
 
Typically you would boil green wood to relieve any pent up stress. I believe the theory is that it equalizes the stress built up by softening the cellular structure. As it drys, because it is more pliable and will be less likely to crack as it dries.
 
snakewood

I have turned several snake wood pens. They will split easily. Talking to other turners they say temperature is important. Drill carefully so blank does not get hot. Turn with sharp tool so no heat is genreated and be careful puttiing finish on. I have used friction lacquer and like to have it get warm under my finger. I f I make more I am going to use aerosol lacquer and drill very slowly. :cool2:
 
snakewood

Two years ago I bought 50 board foot of snakewood and have primarilly made bottle stoppers, small plates and small bowls from it. It was Kiln dried so with small items I am not concerned with movement from it. I found that the wood does have a tendency to split but with caution it turns fine with any sharp tool. The key is to resharpen often and always support your cut. I would not expect the soap method to work very well due to its density.

mkart
 
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