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skew bevels not sharpening equal

D

dickhob

Joined
Dec 29, 2007
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I hope someone can give me some help. I'm using a Oneway platform and a CBN wheel. I use a curved edge one my skews. One bevel is ALWAYS longer then the other! The tool is sharp and cuts well, but I cannot figure out what I am doing to cause different bevels.

I have everything tightened down. I am very careful to keep the skew in full contact with the platform and the wheel. The bevel on my Thompson 1/2" skew is a full 1/16" wider on one side- that's just an example, all of my skews have different bevels.

Any ideas??

Thanks
Dick
 
You have simply been grinding on one side more than the other. It gradually gets this way a little at a time until one day you notice the problem. Been there done that. Don't just jump out and regrind it. As you've probably noticed it doesn't really effect how the skew works. It just looks bad. so what I do is just concentrate on sharpening longer on the short bevel until the two sides match.
 
Should be easy to troubleshoot

dickhob said:
I hope someone can give me some help. I'm using a Oneway platform and a CBN wheel. I use a curved edge one my skews. One bevel is ALWAYS longer then the other! The tool is sharp and cuts well, but I cannot figure out what I am doing to cause different bevels.

I have everything tightened down. I am very careful to keep the skew in full contact with the platform and the wheel. The bevel on my Thompson 1/2" skew is a full 1/16" wider on one side- that's just an example, all of my skews have different bevels.

Any ideas??

Thanks
Dick
Click to expand...

Dick,

Is the bevel angle the same on both sides? If the bevel angle is equal it would seem it has to be a matter of time or pressure differences. It wouldn't take a lot of difference in time or pressure since as you are adding length to one side you are taking it away from the other.

If the angles are different then there has to be an error somewhere in set-up and/or technique.

Just ideas to troubleshoot a little bit. If the angles are different it is often caused by holding the tool too far back from the platform and a natural tendency to raise it up off the platform as you move it. I'm guessing it is spending a little more time on one side than the other but obviously you are the best judge.

Hu

Hu
 
You didn't say what skew you had. if you have a flat skew it's easier to keep both sides the same on the flat Oneway platform. If you use the Oneway skew sharpening jig it's much harder because it's very easy to rock the skew in the V arm as you sharpen. Oval skews are hard to sharpen for the same reason. They will rock on the flat platform. I made some jigs for my ONeway system to make it more accurate.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJYNLkPh_LM
 
If you are using a flat skew, is the bevel width the same at the heel and toe? If not, then you are not holding it right or your jig has a problem, or your tool rest isn't perpendicular to the grinding wheel or your grinding wheel needs truing because the face isn't square with the sides.
 
Go to a belt sander and diamond cards. Not a lot of reasons why a skew needs to be ground once the configuration is achieved on the sander. I think the only reason we even subject gouges to the wheel is the inconvenience involved in honing. Where honing is easy, as with carbon steel, I tend to hone even them.

If you are using a curved skew, use the same technique used to produce a camber on a scrub or jack iron. Clamp your shape in plastic behind the edge, where it can butt up against your rest as a guide.
 
Thanks for the ideas, but I don't think most of it applies.

I'm using a oneway platform and grinding freehand. I have developed a very light touch over the years. I am very careful to keep in full contact with the platform. My forward pressure is very light. I usually take 2-3 passes on each side to get a sharp edge. I use a pivoting motion to keep a curved edge. I don't usually hone.

Here are some pics. It is a Thompson 1/2inch flat skew.

Right now, I'm thinking John's suggestion that I simply am grind one side longer/harder makes the most sense. I really thought I was consistent, but I guess I need to concentrate more.

If the pics give anyone any ideas, I all ears/eyes.
Thanks
Dick
 

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Yea based on the photos don't worry about it. It won't cut any different in actual use. Just concentrate on reshaping it every time you sharpen. I would suggest honing. I don't hone any other tools but the skew behaves so much better when it's sharp enough to shave hair.
 
I agree with John's recommendation that it would be a good idea to hone the skew. That is a somewhat ragged looking edge. If you do any fine detail work such as very thin finials, a clean knife edge will enable you to get crisp edges.
 
dickhob said:
Thanks for the ideas, but I don't think most of it applies.

I'm using a oneway platform and grinding freehand. I have developed a very light touch over the years. I am very careful to keep in full contact with the platform. My forward pressure is very light. I usually take 2-3 passes on each side to get a sharp edge. I use a pivoting motion to keep a curved edge. I don't usually hone.

Here are some pics. It is a Thompson 1/2inch flat skew.

Right now, I'm thinking John's suggestion that I simply am grind one side longer/harder makes the most sense. I really thought I was consistent, but I guess I need to concentrate more.

If the pics give anyone any ideas, I all ears/eyes.
Thanks
Dick
Click to expand...


Dick,

If you take a real close look at picture one you will see you had sharpening issues with about half of the skew. Most of the issue didn't harm usability but about 20% of the edge didn't get sharpened on this side. Uneven contact top to bottom on the bevel too. Looking at picture two I see similar issues, not as bad. Are you focusing your efforts sharpening on the primary section of the edge you use and losing a little focus once you have sharpened the lower half of the skew?

I have issues because I am trying to stretch how long my gouge lasts, trying to grind very very lightly. Could be an issue trying to stretch skew life too. Shouldn't have any function problems especially after a touch with a hone but when you magnify the image with digital imaging you can see it could be a little better. Wish I wouldn't have typed this, now I will have to try to take pictures of my grinds to get a better look at them!

Hu
 
dickhob.........

I tend to agree with the others here. This is simply a matter of grinding more on one side than the other, and this is the result of time and many sharpenings, rather than a single effort.

My guess is the cause is "style" in your grinding. You do need to grind one side in exactly the opposite way as the other, and my guess is it's related to that in some way.

The solution is simple......awareness......and, you now have that! It will be easy for you to remedy the problem. :cool2:

==================================

I'm also in agreement with those who are suggesting some honing.

If you're not currently using a flat diamond hone, you should give that a try. Honing only takes seconds of your time, and the increased degree of sharpness will be well worth your effort. It's also a benefit to know that you can touch up an edge repeatedly while turning, and you can be back in business just as quickly.....only seconds of time.

.....no loss of concentration......is a key to maintaining mental momentum........😀

ooc
 
Last edited:
Dick,
I think the answer may be quite simple. We all find using one hand, going one direction, whatever, to be easier than the opposite. Think about using your skew on a piece of wood--isn't it easier cut when you pull than it is to cut when you push, or maybe for you it's vice versa. Regardless, one is just a little easier. The same would be true as you slide/rotate your skew on the grinder--one direction is just a tiny bit easier or more natural.
As others have said, it shouldn't have a practical effect. Plus, I bet the difference is less than most of the rest of us. 😉
 
Again, thanks to everyone for the replies and suggestions. I've started working on my technique to equalize the grinds, although as was commented, it is probably more cosmetic than critical.

Being as there seems to be a consensus on the benefit of honing, can we spend a few posts on "how to" technique? I understand to get the heel of the grind in contact with the hone and then rock the edge onto the hone. After that things tend to fall apart for me.

I don't seem to be able to accurately gage when I have the proper contact as I push/pull either the hone or the chisel. My best results are when I hold the hone and push the chisel edge into the hone, but results have not been all that satisfactory.

I suspect pressure also plays a part and again I've gotten mixed result.

Maybe it is a practice thing that falls into place over time. I'm better than I used to be, but still have a ways to go.

Suggestions from the experienced honers would be very useful.

I'm not sure if I just started a new subject that deserves its own thread. If so, feel free to move it.

Thanks for all the help so far. Looking forward to some new comments.
Dick
 
Honing means laying the heel and edge on the stone, or, in my case, the stone across the heel and edge, and rubbing. Pressure can be as much as is required to keep things in contact if you're taking hone to edge, be medium or lighter down if the opposite. When the edge shines a bit brighter than when you started, do the other side - you're done.
 
Since I sharpen mostly on a grinder all of my edges are hollow ground. I simply push the hone onto the bevel with my finger in the center. The hone will sit on the 2 high spots. Then I just push it back and forth touching these 2 high spots, one of which is the edge I want to sharpen. I do this until I can feel a burr on the other side. Then I flip it over and do the same thing until the burr is on the other side. Then change grits and keep doing the same thing until I have gone through the ultra fine grit which on my tools is 1200.
That's what I do when I need to establish a good new edge. Most of the time I can touch it up with the ultra fine or fine hone. When I have to go back as far as the medium hone it's time to go to the grinder.
That's with my skew. With my gouges I seldom hone. I take the tool to the grinder and then I use a round diamond fish hook sharpening tool to remove the burr from the grinder and polish the flute a little. I will on occasion use a hone similar to the technique I use on the skew but very seldom. Usually its just for problem woods that won't cut clean.
 
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