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signing over lacquer

H

Hugh

Joined
May 6, 2004
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Location
Sonoma, CA
Does anyone know how I can sign my name on the bottom of vessels finished with lacquer? Is there a pen I can use that will stick? Can I put a thin coat of lacquer over the top and have the name stay there?
Thanks.
Hugh
 
Hi Hugh!

I do this all the time. I first finish the piece and put-on my sanding sealer (a 1 pound cut of ultra blonde shellac) and then either sign it after sanding the shellac, or sign it after a layer or two of sprayed lacquer. (I wouldn't want to try coating over a signature with brushed lacquer, due to possible smudging, etc of the written lines.)

I usually cut back any finish with 00 or 0000 steel wool (or with 320 or 400 grit abrasive) in the area where you intend to write to provide some 'tooth' for the ink. I use a black, fine point (0.45 mm - #05) "Pigma" archival permanent marker made by Sakura to sign my work. Make sure the ink is fully dry (at least 30-40 min+) before you spray on the lacquer top coat(s). I get no running or distortion of what I have written using Deft rattle-can spray lacquer.

This is my standard signature protocol that I've been using for at least 7 or 8 years.... ...it works well for me.

Hope this helps!

Turn safely!

Rob
 
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Thanks Rob. I normally sign my name with an engraver, but the latest vessels do not lend themselves to this. I tried one pen I had, but after it dried, it wiped off. Then I tried not touching it and sprayed a really thin coat of Deft and it disolved the ink to about 1/2 of what it was. I will look for that type of pen tomorrow.
Thanks
Hugh
 
Look for the Pigma pens in art stores like Michael's, Art-a-Rama, Dick Blick, etc. in the drawing section near the pencils, pastels, charcoal, and Prismacolor displays - The Pigma pens are a tan/buff color and are hung in blister packs. - I get mine at Hobby Lobby, usually on sale. I find the #05 (0.45 mm) is better than finer pens, since it leaves a good line that is nicely visible but not too fat. I tried felt-tip pens (i.e. Sharpie), but the lines were never consistent, and the ink was somewhat soluble. Be sure you apply several thin coats of lacquer after letting the ink dry thoroughly.

Rob
 
signature

I TRY to remember to sign my pieces before I apply any finish as I like using a burner or an engraver.-- That being said it may end up being a statement from my past as I, like Rob, have found these Pigma markers. For me, they are much easier to control and use and given my lousy writing allow me to redo if necessary. A shot of compatible finish after the ink dries and they are as permanent as needed. One thing I would caution against is using an engraver on a lacquer surface. The brittle finish chips badly.
 
The pigma pens are good. There are several pens at the Art stores labeled "Archival" However I've found several that will desolve with either alcohol or lacquer to it is advised to do a test. Archival simply means they won't fade. It doesn't tell you what will dissolve them. Like Rob I've found that a light mist with a spray gun before either applying more with the spray gun or applying another finish seems to work well. Wipe on finishes almost always wipe off the signature. Wipe on Wipe Off. Enough of that and you'll be a Karate master.
 
john lucas said:
The pigma pens are good. There are several pens at the Art stores labeled "Archival" However I've found several that will desolve with either alcohol or lacquer to it is advised to do a test. Archival simply means they won't fade. It doesn't tell you what will dissolve them. Like Rob I've found that a light mist with a spray gun before either applying more with the spray gun or applying another finish seems to work well. Wipe on finishes almost always wipe off the signature. Wipe on Wipe Off. Enough of that and you'll be a Karate master.
Click to expand...

Archival means primarily that it doesn't have acids that would lead to degradation of photographs, documents, etc., and last longer. It may also mean it has UV inhibitors. But I have signed a lot of work with Sharpie fine points with the only issue being it can wear off if signed over the top coat after wet sanding and buffing. If you sign with a felt tip and spray of it, it becomes embedded, providing you apply enough coats over the top to allow for wet sanding. This presumes you are spraying on a finish and not wiping on.
 
To get a little fancy use the same name pen but with a Brush Tip. You can print and it looks like calligraphy. I get my pen at Hobby Lobby also.I sign mine after the finish let set overnight then wax 2 or 3 coats.
 
Another possible source for these pens -- if you go to the AAW symposium or SWAT, David Nittmann has sold little baggies of about eight different colors of the Pigma Micron pens. I don't know if he still does.

The ink used these pens is a "nano pigment" similar to the inks used in some of the upper end photo printers. The term "nano" refers to the super small particle size of the pigment which enables it to have many of the advantages of dye inks and the permanence of pigments.

These pens were originally intended for use as low cost technical pens, but their popularity has led them to be used in a wide variety of artistic applications. This has also led to problems if the user does not know about certain characteristics:

  • Being technical pens, they were designed to be held perpendicular to the writing surface. Holding them at an angle could result in poor ink flow from the writing tip.
  • They were also designed to be used on vellum, Mylar, and other drafting media. The writing tip is composed of a bundle of microscopic hollow fibers and sometimes residue on other types of media can permanently clog these microscopic pores (sanding dust, for example).
  • The microscopic fibers in the writing tip are fragile and not able to withstand the pressure of someone who writes with a heavy hand. The "right" amount of force when writing is no more than about twice the weight of the pen itself. If you regularly break pencil leads or "emboss" the paper with your normal writing then these pens are not for you.
The term "low cost" is relative to other pens designed for the same purpose. Do not think in terms of typical throw-away plastic pens found at WalMart.
 
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Thank you Everyone for all the thoughts and such. I found a "Pigma" pen in the local art store today and will try it tomorrow when I get to the shop. Can I tell you that I think it is great that I have a problem and post it.....and someone out there writes back and tells me how to fix the problem. I think that is cool......really cool!:D:D:D
Thank you all very much.
Hugh
 
FWIW, don't try to brand on top of a lacquer finish. Although it is organization of the obvious, I guess, but I did try it and it makes a mess. Winds up being ugly and looking like it was burned after finishing!!! Duh. Resanded and did it right the second time.
 
Bob Comerford said:
FWIW, don't try to brand on top of a lacquer finish. Although it is organization of the obvious, I guess, but I did try it and it makes a mess. Winds up being ugly and looking like it was burned after finishing!!! Duh. Resanded and did it right the second time.
Click to expand...

A burning lacquer isn't real good to breath probably either.
 
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