Signing Convention

[Henry Williams]

What's the best convention for signing a piece for sale?

Is it with your full name, year, and type(s) of wood, or with just a last name?
What about logos?
Should the piece be numbered, and if so, what is a good numbering scheme (e.g. 08xxx for pieces made in 2008)?

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

I was advised not to put a date on a piece for sale because some people won't buy something that was made a year or two ago. I don't know how valid that is, but I stopped putting the year on my pieces. Instead I use a serial number that is YYMM## with ## being the count of pieces I complete in the year and month. So the third piece I completed in December 2007 would be 71203. I figured anybody would be able to decode that, but it's surprising how many people don't know what it means.

I also include my name (first name is only 2 letters so it's no big deal to include it) and the wood type (using common names) on the bottom of the piece.

I engrave the information on the bottom of the item and color in the name and wood type to make it stand out. The serial number is not colored and is much less obvious.


Ed

 

[john lucas]

I've been putting my last name, date and species. I'm really rethinking the date thing. I've had problems with pieces that I hang on to for whatever reason and then need to sell later or donate to some charity and the some of these will be 2 or 3 years old and this causes a problem. The other side of the coin is that people often want the date since they give these as gifts and it's a reminder of when they gave it. If I just sold everything when I make it that wouldn't be a problem.
I have been working on pieces for a planned show. Since I work full time it will be years before I get all the pieces ready. I have to get production work out also which eats into the show pieces time. When I go back and look at the pieces that I have already made for this potential show the dates will probably cover 5 or more years. Do you think this is going to be a problem? If so how do I handle it. Since I'm not famous you can't really call it a retrospective.

 

[Griesbach]

I've been putting on my name, year and wood species and am also rethinking the date thing. I really like Ed's coded date system. May I use it Ed?

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

John - One way to deal with it would be to leave the date off the piece and have a written artist statement or certificate of authenticity or something that you sign, date and provide with the piece when you sell it.

Ed

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

I've been putting on my name, year and wood species and am also rethinking the date thing. I really like Ed's coded date system. May I use it Ed?

Cyril - Go for it. I got the idea after decoding some appliance serial numbers around the house so it's not my original idea.

Ed

 

[Stacey S]

I go with a coded date also. but mine is a little different. an example is B08001, B08002, etc. I used to do eithe B or V for bowl or vessel but now I jsut do B I guess I could even drop that. the next 2 numbers are for the year 08 is for 2008 and the last 3 numbers is the number for the year. I start at 001 for the first piece of the year and go until the year is over how ever high that may be so far I haven't gotten over 100 yet but with this I could go up to 999 before I had trouble and i dont think I will ever turn 999 pieces in a year.
Stacey

 

[MichaelMouse]

What's the best convention for signing a piece for sale?

Is it with your full name, year, and type(s) of wood, or with just a last name?
What about logos?

Though a number of people who write about themselves in the third person would certainly claim to have the "best" or only way, I'd say it's a matter of your style. I put my name on it, and anything else the customer would like. Some want less, some want the Gettysburg Address in a 1" recess. I do what I can to oblige those who pay, by putting in what they want after I have what I want.

 

[Bill Grumbine]

I've always put the date on pieces, with the exception of some of my earliest ones. I also have had pieces that hung around for two or even three years before they sold, but have never had trouble selling them - eventually! No one has ever squawked about the date on them. I have even had a customer or two ask for an older piece since they have collected my stuff for years, and need a piece to complete the collection for that particular year.

 

[georgetroy]

I just completed a project today of Pear Wood. I signed in my usual method with a woodwriter pen. It looks like this

George Troy 1278
Pear
Galva KS

 

[odie]

Over the years, I've signed my work many ways. These days, everything is numbered, but not on the bowl itself. Everything is photographed and numbered, but the only thing that goes directly on the bowl is my signature mark......a stylized version of my initials burned on by hand. I have used personalized branding irons, but I feel my hand written signature mark is the best of all.....has more aesthetic appeal than the branding irons ever did.

I really would like to put the number of the bowl on each bowl for my own use, but it's my opinion that just my signature mark is the most professional looking of all.......plain and simple, or the KISS principle at work! I do put the number of the bowl in my pc photo album with each pic of bowls. Also, I store finished bowls in plastic bags with a slip of paper that has the bowl number on it......because I have that number, at any time I wish, I can go to the card file and find out all the information I, as the artist, would need to know in order to remain organized and sell his wares. Also, when bowls are sold, it's nice to have the photograph and index card for my own future use.

All bowls have a 3x5 index card in a card file box. From rough bowl block, to finished piece, all particular information is kept on that card. Some of the information include the bowl number, date roughed, weighing information, cost, size, species, % moisture content when roughed, date completed, pecularities such as finishing and cutting notes, any other information of note for that particular bowl.......etc.

otis of cologne

 

[Mark Mandell]

John - One way to deal with it would be to leave the date off the piece and have a written artist statement or certificate of authenticity or something that you sign, date and provide with the piece when you sell it.

Ed

Which the buyer will promptly either lose or throw away.

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

All bowls have a 3x5 index card in a card file box. From rough bowl block, to finished piece, all particular information is kept on that card. Some of the information include the bowl number, date roughed, weighing information, cost, size, species, % moisture content when roughed, date completed, pecularities such as finishing and cutting notes, any other information of note for that particular bowl.......etc.

otis of cologne

I'm in awe. I record lots of information about my turnings. I promptly lose a lot of it and can't find the rest when I want it.

Ed

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

Which the buyer will promptly either lose or throw away.

In my case, they could only lose it on the rare occasion I could actually find it to give it to them.

Ed

 

[Dave Roller]

I sign my name.

 

[odie]

I'm in awe. I record lots of information about my turnings. I promptly lose a lot of it and can't find the rest when I want it.

Ed

Ed.....you're probably a lot like I was. I've been using the 3x5 file cards and file card index for less than a couple of years now. If it wasn't for that, I'd probably lose most of my information, too.

What works for me, probably wouldn't work for everyone, but I just thought I'd mention a few particulars about how I'm doing things.

My way of doing things probably sounds like a big hassle, but once you establish a routine, the process gets a little smoother, and seems like it's the way it ought to have been all along! One thing about it......it's sure nice to have that information if, and when you want to check on it.

otis of cologne

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

Odie - Sometimes the old simple ways are the best. It was always my plan to have pictures and information in a database on my computer rather than on paper. But the computer is nowhere near the shop so information gets recorded on scraps of paper for entry later. That's where my system falls apart. Later is often so much later that the papers gets lost before they make it to the computer. I'd be a lot better off with a little card index in the shop. Thanks for the idea. Don't know if it will solve my problem, but it can't be any worse.

I particularly like the idea of having a place to record and retain the drying schedule for future reference.

Ed

 

[Jim Silva]

My work gets my signature branded on the bottom and a 3/4" round ivory button with my logo scrimshaw'd on it. Sounds clunkier than it actually is lol. Any info about the piece (year, #, style, wood, etc) is on an accompanying card I print for each piece.

 

[odie]

My work gets my signature branded on the bottom and a 3/4" round ivory button with my logo scrimshaw'd on it. Sounds clunkier than it actually is lol. Any info about the piece (year, #, style, wood, etc) is on an accompanying card I print for each piece.

Sounds interesting.......how about showing us in a pic?

otis of cologne

 

[Jim Silva]

I've REALLY got to get a better camera

 

[odie]

Thanks for showing us, Hork......

I like that......looks real professional.


otis of cologne

 

[John King]

Putting artist name, date and wood species on bowls/vessels makes sense to me. But I am curious about one thing. What is the purpose of putting the bowl/vessel sequence number for the year made on the piece?

Also, I see some discussion on record keeping. I record wood species and bowl/vessel dimensions in a record book along with a photo of the bowl/vessel. Again, I would like some insight into why some keep very detailed records (date wood cut, drying time, bowl blank weight, etc.) on bowls/vessels.

Look forward to hearing from you. - John

 

[odie]

Putting artist name, date and wood species on bowls/vessels makes sense to me. But I am curious about one thing. What is the purpose of putting the bowl/vessel sequence number for the year made on the piece?

Also, I see some discussion on record keeping. I record wood species and bowl/vessel dimensions in a record book along with a photo of the bowl/vessel. Again, I would like some insight into why some keep very detailed records (date wood cut, drying time, bowl blank weight, etc.) on bowls/vessels.

Look forward to hearing from you. - John

Howdy John.........

Since it's me that mentioned that I record such things as date bowl was roughed, drying time, bowl blank weight......I suppose it should be me that responds to your enquiry.

Probably most woodturners record less information than I do, and get by with that without it being necessary. For me, I find it a convenience that helps the process. I guess it's not necessary to know exactly when the bowl was roughed, as long as the date of the first, and subsequent weighings are there. This gives you a "visual" record of accurately determining when a bowl is ready for final shaping.......or, when it "stabilizes".

Once you have finished off a bowl, all that information is no longer necessary, but since it's all there on the index card, there's no reason to get rid of it. Other information, like peculiarities of a particular species of wood, cost, size, etc., are information that you will want to know when you decide what kind of price you want to sell your works for.......agreed?

otis of cologne

 

[waltben]

I don't record as much as Odie, but I've found it very helpful to do the following:

• I put the date cut on the ends of logs and log halves with a Sharpie, then seal & stack.
• I put the date cut (and pro-rated cost if purchased) on blanks with pencil and then stack.
• If I have to put a partially finished piece aside for a bit, I pencil whatever is pertinent onto the bottom.
• I sequence pieces by when they're ready for signing and finish, and only record that date and species in a notebook.
• After signing and finishing, I take several 'record' photos.

Basically, I just try to track the information that helps me.