Perhaps, you can retrieve some ideas from some of my photos to help in your construction.
The d bar above from infinity systems is no longer available. It has a plate that is fastened to the d-bar
Via screws and nuts. There is a 3/4 inch rod that was tapped and threaded on the bottom and screwed into the plate. The vertical aluminum support fits into that rod via a bored 3/4 hole and is secured by two star knobs allowing for adjustment. The cross beam has a 12mm hole for the laser secured with a set screw. It also had a set screw to turn the laser on and off. That is not something you want to copy. It was a clear source of headache. I bought lasers on line that can be powered externally and switched on an off.
I have used this system along with some Jamison components for many years.
Recently, I bought some additional components from the ok spin Dr which allowed me to make deeper vases and bigger pieces in general. Although, I can connect the d bar to the back of his bars, the infinity system beam can not extend the laser far enough to hover over the cutter for the deeper pieces. The cross beam needed to be made longer. To solve this problem, I used a piece of 1 inch pvc to telescope over the existing beam. It’s cheaper and lighter then replacing the aluminum bar. The pvc Is secured with some threaded knobs. I hand tapped these into the pvc and fitted a small aluminum tube in the front to hold the laser via set screws.
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The Original cross beam is about 32 inches which means that it can extend about 24 inches from the vertical beam. This pvc telescope extends the reach of a laser/camera at least 20 additional inches.
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For larger and deeper pieces, instead of 3/4 boring bars, I use 1 1/4 boring bars of various lengths. Initially, I connected the legacy d handle to the end of the 1 1/4 bars via a 3/4 interface bar and it worked fine. I got an idea looking at the Steve Sinner boring bars to take my 60 inch bar and temporarily form a d bar at the end using a 2nd 1 1/4 bar and connect them with shaft collars that are welded together: It worked great. The set screws in the welded shaft collars were strong enough to hold the two sets of bars together on the cross trap preventing any counterclockwise rotation of the boring bars.
The pictures below depict this but the forward double welded shaft collar ring has to be moved up for use. They are adjustable and the assembly comes apart for storage.
This is a little off topic of how to connect a laser to the boring bar but I had to explain the above to be able to explain how I connected the legacy laser to this boring bar below:
I built a 3x3 aluminum base similar to the base on the original d-bar and drilled 3/8 holes as shown above. I placed a 1 1/4 shaft collar on each bar as shown. I removed the 3/8-16 set screws from the shaft collars and re placed them with 3/8-16 hex machine screws with nuts. The screw secures the collar to the bar and the nut secures the platform. The center hole holds the 3” original post and the laser assembly.
Motor shaft collars are relatively inexpensive coming in many sizes. I also use them as shaft stop blocks when deep hollowing also handy as a tool rest height stop. I was also contemplating using the split collar that has two screws or even standard muffler like u bolts as well.
FYI: the beam is 1.75” od x15” high
The x beam is 1” od x 32” total lengh
The laser is 12mm od.
More about my hollowing system in thread: Hollowing system boring bars. 18th post.
