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shop walls

Robert Feingold

Robert Feingold

Joined
Jun 14, 2011
Messages
119
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64
Location
Brooklyn, NY
I just had a shed built to be used as a turning studio and am trying to decide what type of wall surface to use. it's in Connecticut and is 8' x 10'.
it is a typical stud framed structure, its very tight and will be insulated, have a hardwood floor with electric radiant floor heat.
I'm considering 1/2" ACX plywood but am concerned about out-gassing. I'd like to keep the cost reasonable but do not want be foolish.
Any input would be appreciated.

Also I'm concerned about humidity. any suggestions?

Thanks,
Rob
 
You might consider pegboard or slat-board to incorporate a way of hanging shelves for storage which will be a needed commodity in an 8x10 area.
 
You probably don't need ACX exterior plywood which uses waterproof glue. I discovered after buying some at one of the big box stores that it was from South America and the glue was really noxious urea formaldehyde adhesive ... really nasty stuff to cut indoors and like you said it probably would outgas for a while. I would prefer 5/8" or 3/4" interior grade plywood which would be better for making the walls stronger and give you the freedom to mount shelves and whatnot anywhere you want. Also there is no noxious outgassing issue with interior plywood.
 
Like Olaf, I used 1/2" interior ply in my new shop expansion--850 sf and have tongue and groove pine in the previously existing 450 sf space--I prefer the tongue and groove from an appearance standpoint, bug the ply is very versatile and looks OK too--I'd pick on of these depending on how important looks are to you!
 
My walls are white painted sheetrock. Others advised me to keep my studio as light as possible and it was great advice.
 
I went the cheap route. I used 5/8" wafer board and painted it a very light gray. Not as pretty but saved me quite a bit and holds screws well. I have every wall.covered with tools and clamps.
 
I agree that you want a wall on to which it is easy to mount shelves and hooks. For that reason I might not prefer drywall. If you do go with drywall make yourself some kind of map for the stud locations so you're not hunting and pecking to find them later when you want to hang a tool rack. And you could put in some extra two by at hook or shelf height or other key locations.

But before you decide on the material spend some time considering the aesthetic of your walls. When you look up from your work you're going to be staring at them. No wall may be that inspirational, but a utilitarian wall can be depressing, particularly in a small space. I turn in a basement workshop with unfinished foundation walls. I may be happy about what I'm doing, but I feel like I'm doing it in a dungeon.

A warm wood grain finish (e.g. pine) might be very nice. But painting with a light bright color can work wonders. I have an office in our attic with a couple of small windows. 12 years ago I had it painted a sunny yellow and I have never regretted that. I may not be thrilled to have to be working, but I never mind being in the space.

If you are going with plywood then it might need some sanding or a smoothing surface coat for the paint to look right. Just painted directly the walls will still look like the inside of a shiiping crate, just one that's been painted.
 
john lucas said:
I went the cheap route. I used 5/8" wafer board and painted it a very light gray. Not as pretty but saved me quite a bit and holds screws well. I have every wall.covered with tools and clamps.
Click to expand...

Me too......when you have a tight budget like mine, this is one area where you can save quite a bit. (This is not to suggest that going cheap on everything is the best way to go.)
IMG_4155.JPG
 
Cheap? I'm so cheap, they have my picture next to the word in the dictionary. I looked at OSB at Lowe's along with insulation and 2x4s. Just need to take measurements and figure the cost. Building a wall over a single metal garage door.
 
Mark Jundanian said:
I agree that you want a wall on to which it is easy to mount shelves and hooks. For that reason I might not prefer drywall. If you do go with drywall make yourself some kind of map for the stud locations so you're not hunting and pecking to find them later when you want to hang a tool rack. And you could put in some extra two by at hook or shelf height or other key locations.

But before you decide on the material spend some time considering the aesthetic of your walls. When you look up from your work you're going to be staring at them. No wall may be that inspirational, but a utilitarian wall can be depressing, particularly in a small space. I turn in a basement workshop with unfinished foundation walls. I may be happy about what I'm doing, but I feel like I'm doing it in a dungeon.

A warm wood grain finish (e.g. pine) might be very nice. But painting with a light bright color can work wonders. I have an office in our attic with a couple of small windows. 12 years ago I had it painted a sunny yellow and I have never regretted that. I may not be thrilled to have to be working, but I never mind being in the space.

If you are going with plywood then it might need some sanding or a smoothing surface coat for the paint to look right. Just painted directly the walls will still look like the inside of a shiiping crate, just one that's been painted.
Click to expand...

Those are some very good thoughts on aesthetics. An 8 X 10 enclosed space is really tiny and can be uncomfortable if you are bothered by tight spaces (crawl spaces, spelunking, MRI, coffin, etc). It would also be a good idea to keep the door open so that you don't get asphyxiated and for certain don't do any finishing in that tiny enclosed space. Maybe to avoid the room looking like the interior of a shipping container you could invite a street artist to decorate the walls with an outdoor scene.

We have vertically oriented rough-out cedar planks with the smooth side out in our sun room. I like the idea of using unpainted wood. After thirty something years we're getting ready to repurpose the room so I plan to use the cedar in my studio to cover some of the drywall.
 
I ended up turning 1/2 of one half of our 2 car garage into a small shop with insulated walls so I could have some heat. Knowing it would be confining, I built 2 small windows, right at eye level, one of which is right in front of me as I turn. I don't pay too much attention to what's going on outside, but I can see trees and bushes and sunlight and people wandering along the street. It makes it much less like a jail cell. Also, the walls are white white, which helps my old eyes by increasing contrast and ambient light.
 
When I had my basement finished, my guy said I would be a lot happier with drywall than OSB. I think he was right. Looks nice painted while. I put up French cleats on most of the walls which eliminates most concerns about putting anything on them. Easily adaptable. One sheet of 3/4" cut in 4" strips at a 4 degree angle.
 
I used sheetrock on the lower four feet of my shop (just lay in on its side) and then four feet of pegboard backed with 10 mil Visqueen. Paint it all white .
 
Mike Peace said:
One sheet of 3/4" cut in 4" strips at a 4 degree angle.
Click to expand...

Did you mean 45°?

tdrice said:
I used sheetrock on the lower four feet of my shop (just lay in on its side) and then four feet of pegboard backed with 10 mil Visqueen. Paint it all white .
Click to expand...

Visqueen makes a wide range of products. Which one did you use
 
I did similar to tdrice but used 3/8 plywood and pegboard. I ripped the ply into 2' X 8's and ran one row at the bottom, then the pegboard, then one row at the top. Puts the pegboard more where I want it. You can get white pegboard.
 
MM, good idea. Reminded me that I have a sheet of pegboard. I've already saved enough money to buy more turning stuff!
 
Bill,
The Visqueen I was referring to is 10 mil sheet plastic sold in various widths and lengths at your local hardware, lumber, or big box store.
Michael,
The reason I use 4" is that I build my work benches in front of them.
 
Robert Feingold said:
I just had a shed built to be used as a turning studio and am trying to decide what type of wall surface to use. it's in Connecticut and is 8' x 10'.
it is a typical stud framed structure, its very tight and will be insulated, have a hardwood floor with electric radiant floor heat.
I'm considering 1/2" ACX plywood but am concerned about out-gassing. I'd like to keep the cost reasonable but do not want be foolish.
Any input would be appreciated.

Also I'm concerned about humidity. any suggestions?

Thanks,
Rob
Click to expand...
You might consider 5/8" fire resistant drywall. Its surprisingly dent resistant, and like it says in its name, fire resistant.
If you got permits for the shed/studio, it might even be required to use DW. A lot of towns don't like plywood for walls, since it can be flammable.
 
Thanks for lots of good ideas.
I have 3 windows and a nice view all around so I won’t feel closed in.
I’ve decided to use AC plywood and will paint it white or off white.
I’ll probably put hang plexi in front of the window in the line of fire.
I’ll buy a wall hung dust collector, hopefully it will have adequate CFM’s. Any suggestions on a brand?
Also I’d like to get an 18” band saw. Any suggestions on a small footprint machine? I’m thinking Jet or Rikon.
Rob
 
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