• January Turning Challenge: Thin-Stemmed Something! (click here for details)
  • Conversations are now Direct Messages (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to John Lucas for "Lost and Found" being selected as Turning of the Week for January 13, 2025 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Shellawax - EEE ultra shine paste

D

Dan Mosley

Joined
Jan 31, 2009
Messages
137
Likes
0
I decided to try Shellawax and just recently bought some EEE ultra shine. I do not have the shellawax EEE ultra shine yet so I tried just using the shellawax cream out of the jar. I read the directions but still have a few questions for anyone else that has used it.

I notice that on large projects, bowls for instance that it is hard to control the application. It dries quickly and can leave alot of marks even when you use a rag to apply. I had to use some sandpaper to take it down to a smooth surface again (1000grit). At this point when smooth you can apply some Renissance and it turns out very good but getting rid of the marks can be a pain. I have also tried the what the directions suggested and that was to put on a coat by hand with the lathe off - then turn the lathe on and apply another coat - which works well but you still can easily develop some rag marks that require sanding to smooth back out.
Any thoughts on how to extend the setup time ????????????
(besides adding liquid shellawax as the directions suggested)

On a small vessel I applied it on the lathe and the finish is fantastic how it shines and feels. It is much easier to apply on smaller work but I also want to use it on much larger projects but now im struggling with how to apply it more effectively.................thought???

Wondering if you can add a bit of alcohol or something to it to extend the setup time without ruining the actual finish.............?????

Any Shellawax turners out there? Thanks Dan
 
Are you using the Shellawax in the jar, or in the bottle? I don't usually use Shellawax on anything but bottle stoppers and pens, so I don't have much advice to offer, but the bottle version is a little thinner. There is a product available at my local Woodcraft in Seattle (not sure if it's available elsewhere in the country) called Doctors workshop (I think that's right) that is a shellac/wax/walnut oil finish that works a lot like shellawax, but better/easier. If you can't find any near you let me know and we can make arrangements and I'll ship you some.
 
Dan Mosley said:
I decided to try Shellawax and just recently bought some EEE ultra shine. I do not have the shellawax EEE ultra shine yet so I tried just using the shellawax cream out of the jar. I read the directions but still have a few questions for anyone else that has used it.

I notice that on large projects, bowls for instance that it is hard to control the application. It dries quickly and can leave alot of marks even when you use a rag to apply. I had to use some sandpaper to take it down to a smooth surface again (1000grit). At this point when smooth you can apply some Renissance and it turns out very good but getting rid of the marks can be a pain. I have also tried the what the directions suggested and that was to put on a coat by hand with the lathe off - then turn the lathe on and apply another coat - which works well but you still can easily develop some rag marks that require sanding to smooth back out.
Any thoughts on how to extend the setup time ????????????
(besides adding liquid shellawax as the directions suggested)

On a small vessel I applied it on the lathe and the finish is fantastic how it shines and feels. It is much easier to apply on smaller work but I also want to use it on much larger projects but now im struggling with how to apply it more effectively.................thought???

Wondering if you can add a bit of alcohol or something to it to extend the setup time without ruining the actual finish.............?????

Any Shellawax turners out there? Thanks Dan
Click to expand...
Gooday Dan.

First off there is directions here: http://www.ubeaut.com.au/cream.html

Secondly: By the sound of it you are putting too much on. This is the general cause of rings.

Thirdly: What speed are you running the lathe at? It has to be going as fast as you can safely go.

Fourthly: How are you using the cloth? If you are using what I call an open cloth it will not generate enough heat to work. You need to use a white (coloured can stain) soft cloth like old bed sheets (flannelet is best) and form a tight little wad like a french polishers tampon.

Apply the cream (a little) to the bowl with the lathe stopped using the tight wad of cloth. Coverage only has to be minimal. Too much and you will get rings or it will be hard to work.

Start the lathe and starting from the centre out press very very hard on the cloth to melt the cream and work it backwards and forwards from the centre to the rim and back until a slight "bloom" appears. When that happens, stop. This is the wax coming to the surface.

With a clean "open" cloth give the bowl (lathe running) a light buff to polish it.

If you want to add another coat, go and have a cuppa and repeat.

I demonstrate it at some of the major shows in Australia.
 
Dan...

I have just got back into turning and have been trying different finishes. I am not an expert on this but have used EEE paste and Shellawax cream. I have never used the Shellawax cream without first putting on the EEE paste. My understanding is that EEE paste is sort of like a rubbing compound and sealer. I put it on the way Ian describes. I have used it on small bowls up to 8 inches and coat the surface with it and then spin it to smooth out the application and then use a clean cloth to finish. I have the lathe running fairly fast and can feel the cloth get warm from the friction. I have never had any trouble with it drying. In my experience it gives a fast finish with a high shine. The concern I have is that is does not seem to be a very hard finish and if you put it on a piece that will be handled a lot or used a lot it may not hold up. The instructions that came with mine say it is a heat activated finish and may take several days (weeks???) for the hardening process to occur. Lastly I have found that I can get as nice a looking finish with miniwax WOP but it takes quite a bit more time.
 
I use all Three

I use all three of the Shellawax products, and have for a while. I have good success with them.

One thing you might want to try when using the paste on a large bowl is to thin it with Shellawax liquid. You can do that right on the application rag.

And as posted earlier the faster you can go the better when you're at the polishing stage. You need to get the wax to "flow" which gets rid of the lines you mentioned. If you can get a light at the right angle you can watch the "line" move along with your polishing cloth, then you know it's getting hot enough to melt.
 
Chris Fontana said:
Dan...

I have just got back into turning and have been trying different finishes. I am not an expert on this but have used EEE paste and Shellawax cream. I have never used the Shellawax cream without first putting on the EEE paste. My understanding is that EEE paste is sort of like a rubbing compound and sealer. I put it on the way Ian describes. I have used it on small bowls up to 8 inches and coat the surface with it and then spin it to smooth out the application and then use a clean cloth to finish. I have the lathe running fairly fast and can feel the cloth get warm from the friction. I have never had any trouble with it drying. In my experience it gives a fast finish with a high shine. The concern I have is that is does not seem to be a very hard finish and if you put it on a piece that will be handled a lot or used a lot it may not hold up. The instructions that came with mine say it is a heat activated finish and may take several days (weeks???) for the hardening process to occur. Lastly I have found that I can get as nice a looking finish with miniwax WOP but it takes quite a bit more time.
Click to expand...
EEE is an abrasive. It is used to take out any fine sanding marks left by previous sanding. (at least400#).

It is not a finish

The shellawax uses a crosslinking process that may take a week or so to fully cure but unless you have exceptionally sweaty hands you should be able to handle straight away.
 
Thanks to all that posted - I was using just a wadded up rag but I will now switch and follow the suggestions you mentioned. I am waiting on the EEE to arrive and then I will try it again........
 
Doctor's Woodshop Products

Steve Sloan said:
Are you using the Shellawax in the jar, or in the bottle? I don't usually use Shellawax on anything but bottle stoppers and pens, so I don't have much advice to offer, but the bottle version is a little thinner. There is a product available at my local Woodcraft in Seattle (not sure if it's available elsewhere in the country) called Doctors workshop (I think that's right) that is a shellac/wax/walnut oil finish that works a lot like shellawax, but better/easier. If you can't find any near you let me know and we can make arrangements and I'll ship you some.
Click to expand...

The Doctor's Woodshop products can be found at some Woodcraft stores or at www.doctorswoodshop.com.
 
Friction Polishes

Shellawax is like all friction polishes: it requires heat (friction) to make it work well. Ian is spot on, you are probably using too much. Shellawax ( or the Doctor's Woodshop product) has three finishing components, oil, wax and shellac. There needs to be sufficient friction to cause the wax and oil to flow over the surface of the wood and to drive off the alcohol to set the shellac. Too much means not enough friction.

The cool thing about this type of finish is that it sort of makes it's own surface, oil then wax then shellac. This allows the wax and shellac to set with maximum clarity.

Of course, all finishes are only as good as the surface you put them on, so sand more than you think you need.
 
Ian Robertson said:
I demonstrate it at some of the major shows in Australia.
Click to expand...

Ubeaut makes something called Hard Shellac. They say:

"This unique Hardened Shellac creates a film with a high resistance to heat, water and alcohol, yet it is used in exactly the same way as any normal shellac"

"...it is possible to introduce additives that cause the shellac to cross link after it has dried."

Have any experience with this?

Does anyone with chemistry knowledge know whether this sounds reasonable?

http://www.ubeaut.com.au/hardshell.htm
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top