Sharpening Basics: Brutal Honesty

[Bill Pearson KY]

You guys made my wife extremely happy with your comments. The brutal honesty in your posts regarding jumping in to tool acquisition too quickly was appreciated. I guess I got a little carried away. So back to the basics.

The AAA apparently still offers the sharpening video but it will be 4-6 weeks before I can get it. In the mean time what BASIC sharpening items do I need?

Is the Grizzly G1036 slow speed wet grinder a good start? What about the Penn State set of sharpening jigs (LCGRIND4)? Give me some specific basics until I get the video.

Thanks for your help.

Bill

 

[john lucas]

Bill I would not get a wet slow speed grinder. Do you have any grinders, disc sander or belt sander now. I started out using a 6" disc with sandpaper on it that I attached to the handwheel of my lathe. Then later I used a sears high speed grinder with gray wheels. A 1" strip sander also works well. Whatever you use, use a light touch and cool your tools often and you will be OK until you can learn better ways. When I visit my Dad we always sharpen his tools on a 12" disc that we put on the outboard side of his Shopsmith. I can get just as good an edge on that as I do my grinder at home.
I will tell you that there are better ways but you don't have to go out and buy a $300 grinder with another $150 in jigs to sharpen tools. If you want to do it right on a budget get a Delta slow speed grinder that has the white wheels. I think Lowes had them for $89. Then when you get the money pick up one of the sharpening jigs although if your any good at all you can build one out of wood.
Once you get the AAW video you will probably still find this grinder useful but if you have some other means of sharpening tools I would use that until you get further instructions.

 

[Steve Worcester]

I would say to start, get an 8" slow speed grinder (1800 or so rpms). Woodcraft had them for $69 a week or so ago.

From there, easiest way is to get a jig system, perhaps a tru-grind or Wolverine. I won't go into which because it is another religous war. But a jig system will allow you to concentrate on turning and make repeatable, consistant grinds on the tools and not have to teach yourself to grind by hand.

After those are in and justified, think about great wheels and a balancing system.

 

[S. Clark]

I would say to start, get an 8" slow speed grinder (1800 or so rpms). Woodcraft had them for $69 a week or so ago.

I've got one of these and it works fine. It is well worth the $. As for a jig; make a platform out of wood. Nothing more complicated is necessary. Keith Rowley's (sp?) book gives the plans. 1 hours practice to go through all your tools and you'll have it down. It helps if you can find someone to demonstrate the method. Check with your local club.

- Scott

 

[n7bsn]

YMMV, I like low speed wet grinders, but I don't like the vertical stone type. I like the horizontal stone like the Delta 23-710 , which is a more $10 more then the Griz (yes, I actually own Griz tools, just not that one)

 

[Griesbach]

I'll go along with Steve Worcester on this one. I got one of the inexpensive 8" grinders from Woodcraft with the white wheels on it. 60 grit and 120 grit and it works just fine along with the Wolverine jig and Vari-grind. When you do get the AAW sharpening DVD you'll likely see lots of free hand sharpening demonstrations and you'll also likely see Alan Lacer speak about the variety of jigs available and say that there's no reason not to go the easy way.

My turning buddy swears by his Tormek but he doesn't get any better grind than I do (at least that I can tell). I just don't get wet hands 😀 .

 

[underdog]

I keep meaning to get my jigs set up, but wet wood needing to be roughed out keeps prodding me. So I've just been sharpening by hand, and am finally getting the hang of it. 🙄

Bleah. I'd rather have the jigs, they make such a better edge. 🙁

 

[dkulze]

Just for more detail as to why everyone is recommending the delta 8" rather than a wet stone grinder. The Tormeks and other wet stone grinders are wonderful if you are going to be sharpening chisels, planer knives, etc. For woodturning chisels, such a grinder is not necessary and can actually be a bit of a pain when you chip an edge and have to grind it down. Also, trueing and dressing the wheel is much easier with the Delta.

An analogy I could think of would be picking up a set of custom framing chisels, draw knifes, and hand saws to cut a beam for your shed when a chainsaw will do the job just fine.

As to sharpening jigs, worth every penny. Wolverine from Oneway is my favorite for ease of use, durability, versatility, and idiotproofness.

Dietrich

 

[MichaelMouse]

Lots of overkill available to put an edge on things. Can't say I would ever use my wet grinder for the lathe tools, though. Something about water and sawdust that just makes a big mess, and should you bump it, worse than that. I do my planer and jointer blades (two sets, so one is in, the second ready) on my Makita, and usually tune any planes or chisels at the same time. Then I dry things thoroughly and put them away. Power sanding's good enough for mower blades.

Good general-purpose grinder is a all you need. I go slow, because there are a lot of carbon steel edges in my shop, and the slow saves me from getting dumb too rapidly. Had a fast one at the school, 8" type, prefer the 6" slow for fine work.

Jigs are a religious matter all right. If you're a "one gouge fits all" type, suppose they might be what you want. I keep several different shapes of tools all with different grinds on them, preferring to chose the tool with the clearance and presentation suited for the job rather than putting myself in strange postures to try and make do. Jig would be pretty much worthless for me. Not to mention that the workhorses at my house are gouges sharpened at a constant bevel angle, where the rest is all the guide I need.

Not difficult to sharpen without a jig, really. You do it the same way you cut at the lathe. A-B-C works well. Anchor to the rest, set the heel of the bevel to the stone and raise the handle as if to pare the wheel. Just remember not to grind the edge, but to the edge. Should be almost incidental that you take something off at the tip of the tool. That's where slow speed really helps, it won't whip the thing out of your hand or put a big flat on your tool so easily.

 

[Ed Jarvis]

sharpening

I went to a class with Alan Lacer, he used a slow speed 8", a burnishing tool and a diamond slip stone. Another man who is a pro turner used a variable speed delta and a tru grind system. I liked the Lacer approach as your tools last longer.


ED

 

[john lucas]

If you just use a light touch you tools will still last a very long time. My favorite gouge is finally starting to get short but this thing is 8 years old and I don't know how many times it's been sharpened. I know when I'm turning batches of hand mirrors it will get sharpened probably 10 times in one day. Sometimes 2 times on one mirror if it's curly wood.
I used to worry about sharpening my tools and using them up but one day I decided that tools were disposeable items, that is they are supposed to get used up. That made a huge difference in my turning because I would sharpen whenever I thought they needed it. It's amazing how much easier a sharp tool is to use so now I sharpen constantly and still have all but one of my original tools I bought in a set.
I did try honing tools to see if it would extend the tool life but I didn't see any advantage except on rare occasions when I felt like I needed a really sharp edge for trouble wood. Then I will hone the edge with 600 and 1200 grit diamond hone.

 

[Steve Worcester]

My turning buddy swears by his Tormek but he doesn't get any better grind than I do (at least that I can tell). I just don't get wet hands 😀 .

I have a Tormek as well, but never use it on lathe tools anymore. If you need to remove any amount of metal at all (dropped tools, reshaping), Tormek will take forever.

They work great for scissors, chisels, planer blades, knifes, etc.

 

[Vince Welch]

Hi Bill,
Where do you live in KY? I am in Jeff. IN just across the bridge from Louisville. If you get a chance and would care to just send me an email at Woodnwonders@excite.com. You and I can get together and I can answer your questions in person and show you how I sharpen my tools etc, etc. I am not an expert and do not claim to be. But I do have sharp tools and understand how I got them there. Hope this helps, Vince

 

[Bill Pearson KY]

Honesty Works!

WOW. I appreciate the great input and response I have gotten. Thanks.

I decided to get the slow speed grinder from Woodcraft. I also decided to get (don't want to start a war) the Wolverine jig. I don't believe I will go wrong with this approach.

Thanks everyone. 😀