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Setting dye problem

I believe Jimmy Clewes uses a Sharpie to border his dyes. I don't know if the Sharpie is less likely to bleed that the dyes, but it might be worth consideration.
 
migration

depends how porous the wood is to what is possible, and if you are using a penetrating finish

i saw a hf posted in the gallery within the last year that was painted on the edges of made voids, he said he had sanded the surface of hf next to the edges after doing it so he had no migration left

i am sure there are more techniques
 
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Just a thought regarding dyes — I haven't tried this, so experiment on scrap first: After the dye dries, spray on one or two very light coats of shellac as a sealer. When the shellac is dry you can apply an oil-based (or other) finish over it. The reason I suggest a light spraying, rather than brushing, is that alcohol is the solvent for shellac and some dyes are alcohol based. I've tried brushing and daubing shellac over wood stained with Fiebing's black leather dye, and the liquid shellac picks up the dye — there's just too much liquid present with these methods.

If you want to retain the color of the dyes without introducing a yellowish cast, I'd avoid oil-based finishes altogether and just spray with clear Krylon, which you can pick up at art supply (and probably other) stores.

Experiment on scrap and let us know what works.

Regards, John
 
Cutting narrow valleys actually makes sense in some cases. Leaking under the valley should stay under the valley. On long-grain work, stain on the uphill side might advance far enough to daylight on the downhill side - not good. Stain on the downhill side will leak into material below the surface, so OK. If the valley is at the narrowest part, it doesn't matter. If the valley is at the widest part, or for cross-grain work, open a can of worms.

Joe
 
burning

I have had success burning in lines and patterns and then coloring afterwards and not having any "leakage problems". I will have to try the X-acto knife idea.
 
Wood burning pens will leave a line that the dye doesn't cross. I've had excellent results doing that. I tried making cuts but if the wood is porous it will still run through these. The pyrography lines apparently stop this, at least on the woods I've used.
 
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