Setting a broken vase

[John Tisdale]

I'm turning several koa logs at present - lots of surprises and issues to deal with. But living here in Redneck, TX you don't just walk out and cut yourself a koa tree - I was lucky to get several logs and, in spite of the issues, turn them I will.
An odd design is a face turning on a tall vase - I was forced into it due to the cut of the log. The log was cut just below the crotch. So...I got it shaped and found the crotch extended so that it went completely through the piece. No way would this withstand hollowing. What to do?
Solution (hopefully) - I applied splints with West Epoxy G-Flex. I plan to hollow later this week. Then, after it dries over the next 8-months, I'll do a permanent fix with the G-Flex, turn off the splints, do the final turning and finish. My thinking is the dark-brown epoxy fix will enhance the value.
A few years ago I fixed a mesquite vase (also attached) with a wind shake that went all the way across - found it when I was hollowing - had to go change shorts. Fixed it with G-Flex and it's in somebody's home.
Will be happy to respond to anyone that wants to know a bit more about G-Flex - unlike most epoxies, it adheres to wet wood (wooden boat guys use it for wet wood repairs) - it has been a valuable tool over the years.

 

[Odie]

Will be happy to respond to anyone that wants to know a bit more about G-Flex - unlike most epoxies, it adheres to wet wood (wooden boat guys use it for wet wood repairs) - it has been a valuable tool over the years.

Interesting that the G-Flex adheres to wet wood. I wonder how well it would work on minimizing how far a drying crack would go on roughed bowls being seasoned.....? Does it stain the wood? It must penetrate to some degree.

-----odie-----

 

[olaf Vogel]

Hey John

I have used G-Flex on wet(ish) wood, during the turning process. Like most the West System products, its very good, although expensive.
It did hold together, but my case was not as extreme as yours. Given the amount of surface area, and hopefully light stress loads, I'd be surprised if this doesn't work.

Given the length, I assume you'll use a steady rest - which will reduce loads.
Personally, I believe in trying to fix the mistakes (rather than tossing the piece).
Irregularities like this add to the appeal and personality.

Should be a nice piece.

 

[Dean]

Is the G-flex what carvers use when gluing large logs together, like they do on chainsaw carving stuff?

 

[John Tisdale]

Dean,
My "guess" is G-Flex would be ideal although, as Olaf points out, expensive

Odie,
Because G-Flex and Aero Marine 300/21 are the same family of epoxy, my thinking is the optimum might be to let the lower viscosity 300/21 to go run/inject into the tighter part of a crack and then the G-Flex where it's wider.
All that said, while the epoxy bond may be strong, the wood under the bond can still give way - hard to stop Mother Nature.
For example, I used a hickory ring for the steady-rest near the opening around a 22" dia globe of very wet black cherry - used G-Flex and it worked perfect - after turning down to a bit over an inch thick, I boiled it for a couple of hour - blew the ring off. The expanding wood was not to be contained.
It was either epoxy failure or stupidity - probably the latter

 

[John Tisdale]

The splints and G-Flex worked. The piece is hollowed and ready to go to the drying room for the next 8-months. No way will I boil this one. All that's holding the top and bottom together is the splints/epoxy.
When it dries/shrinks/warps, the splints will probably pop off. No problem - I'll epoxy the two halves together when the moisture content gets to around 6% and do the second turning / finishing - business as usual.
Tall face-grains can be interesting. It's fun explaining the orientation of the log and technique to potential buyers. How about a dozen fudgesicles gave their life to make this happen.
Below is a pic looking into the interior - you can see how the bark inclusion goes all the way around - the top and the bottom of this piece is two limbs with a bit of bark between them.

 

[DON FRANK]

Hey John, in the last picture you posted is that a tool rest with leverage pins like some people will use with hook tools?

 

[John Tisdale]

I use mostly the Rolle Munro and occasionally a straight tool with the 3/16 cutter - I 'm now building a cutter platform for the Rolle Munro but with a #1 Hunter unshielded.
I've never tried a hook-tool. I would assume it is similar to the other cutters from a control standpoint.
I do everything "hand held" except for Planet Mesquite which is a 32" globe and most of it was with handheld tools. The tool rest extends into the vessel which minimizes the "inches over tool rest" factor. Obviously the "internal" rest requires an adjustable pivot pin. Being 6-ft tall, the spindle height is about 53" - I can stand flat footed with a straight back and both hands on the end of a 4' tool - works great. With three high output LEDs on the tool rest, the inside is illuminated.
In the coming days I'll do a post on the tool-rest itself.

 

[olaf Vogel]

Obviously the "internal" rest requires an adjustable pivot pin.

John, I see the pin on your extend-a-rest. Which for deep hollowing could be extremely useful. I use that idea here
(although this piece is very shallow - this was the first run)





For deeper forms, I was considering an option similar to this: