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Seized Stronghold Taper Lock Adaptor

Joined
Feb 7, 2011
Messages
9
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Location
Renton WA
Website
lumberjocks.com
I finally found a bargain on a Oneway Stronghold Adaptor to replace my Talon Chuck. Only problem is, the Taper Lock Adaptor won't come off and it won't fit my Lathe. So, other than dousing the adaptor with 3 in 1 oil, does anyone have any good ideas for getting it to come loose from the chuck???


My fortune finding a Stronghold chuck means I will be selling my talon chuck and jaws! Check the classified section later tonight for the listing. I am also listing a bunch of Robert Sorby & Henry Taylor Tools I picked up from the guy that sold me the Stronghold chuck.

As always, you assistance is greatly appreciated!
 
How are you attempting to remove the taperlock adapter?

Are you removing the fastening screws and placing two of the screws into the "other" two holes and tightening them down as jack screws?

That's the way the Stronghold instructions read on page 8.

http://oneway.ca/pdf/stronghold.pdf

That's the way the Talon instructions read on page 9.

http://oneway.ca/pdf/ow-talon.pdf
 
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Also, if I'm not mistaken the Talon uses a different Taperlock than the Stronghold, so it's unlikely that you can just move the adapter to the new chuck.
 
Thanks Alan!!! I didn't get the instructions so that is Fantastic Help!

Yep the Talon and Stronghold adaptors are different. The Stronghold came with the correct size for my lathe, just not installed.
 
Chris
If it was assembled correctly the two screws holding the insert in place go though unthreaded holes and the two threaded holes open on the chuck surface.
If you put the screws in the threaded holes and tighten they become jack screws should free the chuck.

Work each screw in turn.

If it still won't budge the insert.
screw the chuck onto the lathe with the screws removed from the insert. Open the jaws and close them on a 1x4 x 24. Fit it sideways between the jaws down to the chuck body. Lock the spindle and pull on the 1x4. This should turn the chuck body and free the insert.

Hope this solves your problem,
Al
 
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Chris,

What's the old saying?

"When all else fails, read the instructions"

The only reason I chimed in was I too was pretty stumped by an unyielding adaptor.

In a rare burst of frustration/inspiration/humility, it dawned on me that the information might have been in the instructions that I'd read years earlier.

The procedure is brilliantly simple, and works very well... just take it slow.
 
I finally found a bargain on a Oneway Stronghold Adaptor to replace my Talon Chuck. Only problem is, the Taper Lock Adaptor won't come off and it won't fit my Lathe. So, other than dousing the adaptor with 3 in 1 oil, does anyone have any good ideas for getting it to come loose from the chuck???

I am a bit confused. Are you wanting to remove the spindle adapter from the Talon to put it on the Stronghold? That is how I read your question. If that is what you are asking, then don't remove the adapter because the spindle adapters for the Talon and Stronghold are not interchangeable.

As far as removing the adapter is concerned, it can be a really difficult job. I would start by soaking it with Aero-Kroil or some similar penetrating lubricant for loosening stuck parts. As mentioned by Al you use two of the screws to put in the two threaded holes to jack out the adapter. Make sure that you have a very good long body hex key to turn the screws. Alternate between the two screws and you will probably only be able to turn each screw about an eighth turn at most. When it gets very hard to turn the screws, preload both of them as much as is reasonable and then using either a copper hammer or dead-blow hammer whack the side of the adapter collar. This should allow you to back out the adapter a bit more. Repeat the preloading and hammering as needed.

Once the adapter has been removed, you will find that the screws have bulged the tapered surface of the chuck a bit. You can fix this using Dremel tool or some hand hones.

There is a possibility that a screw could break during this procedure. Don't replace it with a hardware store cap screw even if hardened. The people at Oneway told me that they have found that only the Unbrako screws have the needed hardness and toughness to work reliably. If you call them they might even send you replacement screws without charge, but if not, the cost is pretty small.

If it still won't budge the insert.
screw the chuck onto the lathe with the screws removed from the insert. Open the jaws and close them on a 1x4 x 24. Fit it sideways between the jaws down to the chuck body. Lock the spindle and pull on the 1x4. This should turn the chuck body and free the insert.

Hope this solves your problem,
Al

You're scaring me, Al. I would not want to use my lathe as a vise. If you use to much force, the bearing races could become brinelled (that is where the balls dimple the race).
 
Bill,
Sorry I frighten you.
I don't think puling on 22 inches of 1x4 will damage any lathe capable of holding a stronghold.
Stuck tapers often loosen with a twist

How do you remove faceplates and chucks?
I know you know a lot more about machinery than I do but this is just a chuck and faceplate removal,operation that might just loosen the taper.

Al
 
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I apparently jumped to a mistaken conclusion that you were beating on it. Pulling or twisting shouldn't be a problem. I will admit that I tend to be overly cautious about things like that and will go out of my way to avoid stressing the bearings.

I did have a few stuck chucks and faceplates on my old Delta lathe. I think that it had something to do with the spindle threads having a very loose fit to chuck/faceplate threads. The spindle register had a couple tommy bar holes so stuck parts could be removed without involving the bearings. The lathe did have an indexing pin and holes on the spindle pulley, but it was so fragile that I would not have even considered using that to lock the spindle.
 
Bill,

I agree that indexing systems should not be used as a spindle lock unless the manufacture reccomends it.
The pins tend to be small diameter and in sometimes the metal with the index holes is soft.

A long time ago a friend and I bought shop equipment from school system auctions as wood shops were phased out. We kept the best of what we wanted for ourselves and fixed up and sold the rest to make enough so that we got saws, jointers and lathes for free.

I don't think there was ever a delta lathe with a working index pin.
Most had probably been worn away running the lathe with the pin wearing on the pulley.

Al
 
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Now you tell me, LOL I did a bit of damage to my indexing pin (due to metal softness) because although my lathe has every concievable tool rest and accessory, the one thing my lathe lacks is a spindle lock?
 
I asked Nova about using the index system as a spindle lock and they said it was no problem. I have had a Nova Comet and a Nova 3000 and used the spindle lock system most of the time. I did occasionally use the index pin as a lock and it worked fine. it's not something I would recommend if your lathe actually as spindle lock. If the pin engages the drive pulley fairly deep and there is very little space between the pin housing and the pulley you would probably be OK. Still probably not a good idea if you have a spindle lock on the lathe.
 
The Woodfast lathe used to warn against using the index wheel as spindle lock.
The Woodfast came with two wrenches it had no spindle lock.

Locking with the index pin is is probably one of those things that works out okay until it doesn't.
And some lathe designed it as dual purpose.

Al
 
One thing that I really like about my Robust lathe is that it has a really beefy spindle lock that can lock in four different positions. A very nice feature is that the spindle lock also has an electrical lockout so that the lathe can't be started with the spindle locked. The indexing pin is nice and strong, but I still would not use itas a spindle lock.
 
The Woodfast lathe used to warn against using the index wheel as spindle lock.
The Woodfast came with two wrenches it had no spindle lock.

Locking with the index pin is is probably one of those things that works out okay until it doesn't.
And some lathe designed it as dual purpose.

Al

Howdy Al......

The Woodfast has an aluminum index wheel. It's good for indexing only, or very light duty. I've used mine for keeping the wood from moving while stationary sanding......

I've never had a use for two wrenches, but have thought the second wrench might be needed to change the bearings. So far, even after 20 years of use, my bearings are not yet in need of changing out......knock on wood!

How does having two wrenches allow for locking the spindle? I shortened one of the wrenches and it works for locking the spindle by wedging against one of the bedways......that works, too! 😀

ooc
 
Obie

One wrench for the spindle one for the faceplate.

I do a pseudo spindle lock - wrench on the spindle resting on the top center of the tool rest.
ONEWAY 1018 haas a wrench that has a profusion the fits between the ways. Pretty cute idea the wrench stand vertical and it locks the spindle.


Bill,
We used an American beauty last weekend. A really really nice lathe. The motor switch on the spindle lock is a nice feature.
The index is a little difficult to use. No numbers or other marks. If it were my lathe I could have put tape or ink lines on the marks I wanted.



Altr
 
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Obie

One wrench for the spindle one for the faceplate.


Altr

That would make sense......Although I use many faceplates, none of them have provision for a wrench......except that original Woodfast faceplate that I never use! 😀

ooc
 
Bill,
We used an American beauty last weekend. A really really nice lathe. The motor switch on the spindle lock is a nice feature.
The index is a little difficult to use. No numbers or other marks. If it were my lathe I could have put tape or ink lines on the marks I wanted.

Altr
Al,

You may not have noticed the marks on the back side of the handwheel. The marks have varying lengths like the marks on a ruler, but they are not numbered. I sort of prefer it that way since the initial zero point depends on where you start. The marks for the 48 positions follow a sequence like this:

|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
 
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Bill Boehme said:
Al,

You may not have noticed the marks on the back side of the handwheel. The marks have varying lengths like the marks on a ruler, but they are not numbered. I sort of prefer it that way since the initial zero point depends on where you start. The marks for the 48 positions follow a sequence like this:

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

I did not see those marks.
Probably make life easier next time I get to use one!
Thanks

Al
 
It's that skipping 15 twice successfully to get 3 sides that challenges me. Along with remembering that the fence posts outnumber the rails.
On my lathe I just go to 16 and 32.

I also use a cup drive for multi center turning so to line up my grain I position the work for the first mark loosen the tail stock a bit hold the piece and rotate the the index to 0.

I have an older ONEWAY with easy to read numbers.
The new ONEWAYS don't have the numbers just lines.
 
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I finally found a bargain on a Oneway Stronghold Adaptor to replace my Talon Chuck. Only problem is, the Taper Lock Adaptor won't come off and it won't fit my Lathe. So, other than dousing the adaptor with 3 in 1 oil, does anyone have any good ideas for getting it to come loose from the chuck???


My fortune finding a Stronghold chuck means I will be selling my talon chuck and jaws! Check the classified section later tonight for the listing. I am also listing a bunch of Robert Sorby & Henry Taylor Tools I picked up from the guy that sold me the Stronghold chuck.

As always, you assistance is greatly appreciated!

The conversation in this thread has taken a serious side track into indexing wheels and spindle locks when the question was simply how to remove a "frozen" taper-loc adapter from a Stronghold chuck body. Many suggestions have been presented and most should work. However, if they fail to get the desired result of removing the taper-loc adapter I'm surprised that no one has suggested a little heat from a small touch.

First remove the retaining screw which hold the adapter in place on the chuck body and use two of them in the threaded holes to act as jacking screws (see One Way instructions). Tighten these down with the Allen wrench substantially to preload them. Next, using a small to medium propane torch (avoid MAPP gas here, too hot) to gently heat the collar into which the adapter is frozen for 15 to 20 seconds to cause the collar to expand slightly and the adapter should pop loose. If it does not, allow to cool to room temperature and pre-load the jack screws some more and repeat the heating process again. Repeat the entire process of pre-loading and heating until the taper-loc adapter pops loose.

However, be aware as someone has already mentioned that the taper-loc adapters for the One Way Stronghold and Talon chucks are NOT interchangeable.

Good luck

Peter Toch
 
Have you actually done this? I am very skeptical that heating the spindle adapter to make it expand is the right thing to do unless the thermal shock is responsible . In any case, your advise to use heat sparingly is good. I think that I would add that if this does not work on the first attempt, do not continue by pouring on more heat.

Sometimes with complex shaped structures, it is hard to say whether the size of a particular surface will expand or contract when the object is heated.
 
I can't help but think about how much dust is packed into my chucks that I may not have blown out lately. Open flame and my chucks would be interesting! Definitely an outdoor event.
 
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