• April 2025 Turning Challenge: Turn an Egg! (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Kelly Shaw winner of the March 2025 Turning Challenge (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Ellen Starr for "Lotus Temple" being selected as Turning of the Week for 21 April, 2025 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Seeking recommendations for good bandsaw blades for green wood

Kalia Kliban

Kalia Kliban

Joined
Feb 16, 2012
Messages
196
Likes
905
Location
Sebastopol, California
For a while now I've been using the "Woodturners'" blades from Highland Woodworking and while they cut well, they break at the weld more often than I'd like. I've just ordered a couple from Timber Wolf to see if there's an appreciable difference. Anybody have a solid favorite? I'm working on a Powermatic 1500 with a 153" blade length, and generally use 3/8", 3TPI blades.
Kalia
 
Can't speak to other vendors or manufacturers ... I have been using Timberwolf blades from Suffolk Machinery for years. Never have had a problem with them.
 
Kalia Kliban said:
For a while now I've been using the "Woodturners'" blades from Highland Woodworking and while they cut well, they break at the weld more often than I'd like. I've just ordered a couple from Timber Wolf to see if there's an appreciable difference. Anybody have a solid favorite? I'm working on a Powermatic 1500 with a 153" blade length, and generally use 3/8", 3TPI blades.
Kalia
Click to expand...
How much are you paying per blade? I braze my own 133” blades from coil stock for about $6 to $7 each using a propane or mapp gas torch and silver solder. Search for bandsaw blade brazing on YouTube’s for videos to see how it’s done.

Whenever I start running low on blades then I start looking for 3/8“ to 1/2” blades in 100ft to 350ft coils on eBay. So far I found good deals on three coils which should last me for a long time. I don’t mind as much when a blade breaks at this price, but now I’m also more likely to replace a dull blade before pushing too hard which causes them to break.

For example, this 3/8” 4TPI coil on eBay will make seven 153” blades for around $11 each including cost for the silver solder: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Starrett-Flexible-Back-Band-Saw-3-8-x-4-teeth-100-coil/114410305860?hash=item1aa362b944
 
Last edited:
I just received a couple Timberwolf 3tpi wide kerf blades that they recommend for green wood and so far, I'm very pleased with them. Sliced (lengthwise rip cuts) right through some cherry logs that were at the maximum capacity (13") of my bandsaw. I've been happy with any Timberwolf blade I've used. Not so with some others I've tried.
 
This question has been discussed previously a couple of times in the last 10 years. If you do a search, you might get some additional observations and opinions. of value.
 
Ric Williams said:
I just received a couple Timberwolf 3tpi wide kerf blades that they recommend for green wood and so far, I'm very pleased with them. Sliced (lengthwise rip cuts) right through some cherry logs that were at the maximum capacity (13") of my bandsaw. I've been happy with any Timberwolf blade I've used. Not so with some others I've tried.
Click to expand...
So for you guys using the TimberWolf's, I got a few of that exact same 3tpi wide kerf blades for my new Rikon 14" and they've been great on wet black walnut logs, also at close to my max depth of 13."

However, for the 1st one I installed, following instructions on the box about de-tensioning and then gradually re-tensioning, it took me some time to get everything adjusted correctly, running true and tensioned correctly (I think-it saws fine and tracks straight in any case). Do you guys follow those directions exactly? Any special tricks or shortcuts to get these low-tension blades set up correctly?

I'm sure that it will get easier and more intuitive after doing it a few times.
 
The 3 TPI skip tooth blade I think is the best all around blade for ripping and cross cutting green wood. The deep gullet does a good job of clearing the saw dust. I have bought pre sized and custom cut and welded blades and once in a while the weld joint is bad or breaks but the actual blade stock appears to be the same regardless of who puts their brand name on it.
 
I have been using the Lennox Diemaster Bimetal blades for years. After letting a few friends who were fans of the Timberwolf blades try them, they all switched. You do pay a bit more for them, but they cut longer and straighter, and can be resharpened, if you have a good saw filer around, not some thing I can do. 3 tpi, 1/2 inch blades, and the thicker ones. If you hit a nail with them, it may slow them down a little, but it doesn't ruin the blades. I am able to buy mine locally.

robo hippy
 
I've been using the Highland woodturners blades for years - can't remember ever having one break...they seem to stay sharp longer than other blades I've tried, and the additional set helps when cutting greenwood.
 
Reed and Jeff-Both of those brands are in my list to try out.

I just rough-turned another of the green black walnut blanks I cut out. Man, that green walnut is "hairy" for lack of a better description-or fuzzy and fibrous, however you want to put it. That said, figured black walnut is by far my favorite domestic hardwood.
 
Hi Kailua, I use a lennox bi-metal blade same 3/8 but is 4tpi. Very good blades and they last well. If you hit a nail it just cuts it. Its called the diemaster blade.
 
Aaron Harris said:
Do you guys follow those directions exactly? Any special tricks or shortcuts to get these low-tension blades set up correctly?
Click to expand...
"Real Men Don't Need Instructions"
- Tim The Toolman Taylor

Just kidding ... I set up my saw and do blade changes per the procedures detailed by Alex Snodgrass (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2VkHpI4Gm2Q_U8bm_ilUKw). Though not specific to Timberwolf blades or my Jet saw, his advice has proven to work for me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top