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sealants or glue
- Thread starter turnin60
- Start date
You need to seal the cut ends to slow down what would otherwise be rapid moisture loss from the end grain. This then would lead to severe checking. This allows you to store the cut logs for a period of time and turn them green when you feel like it.
I'm a newbie at this so I can't say how long you can store a log before you need to turn it.
I've heard Anchorseal being highly recommended for this purpose. In a pinch you can paint wax, oil based paint and latex paint on the ends to do the same thing.
I'm a newbie at this so I can't say how long you can store a log before you need to turn it.
I've heard Anchorseal being highly recommended for this purpose. In a pinch you can paint wax, oil based paint and latex paint on the ends to do the same thing.
Anchorseal is the way to go. You can get it at multiple outlets. It's a paintable wax emulsion. Check out previous discussions on sealing green wood using the search button.
sealing
Sealing the end grain of Holly, Madrone, Olive, Manzanita, and others is a waste of time.....they will split length-wise anyhow along the bark. The only recourse I have had is to rough-turn and BOIL, then let stay wrapped up in paper 4 2-3 months to dry SLOW!!! The boiling seems to take care of the stresses. Has worked great 4 me.
Sealing the end grain of Holly, Madrone, Olive, Manzanita, and others is a waste of time.....they will split length-wise anyhow along the bark. The only recourse I have had is to rough-turn and BOIL, then let stay wrapped up in paper 4 2-3 months to dry SLOW!!! The boiling seems to take care of the stresses. Has worked great 4 me.
For most woods out there I have been using a cheap latex paint for years to seal endgrain.Anchorseal is great,but is more expensive.You can get a gal. of cheap latex paint for 7 or 8 bucks and it goes a long way,plus it's a lot easier to clean up than the oil base paints.Good luck in your new hobby.
Ken
Ken
Only problem with latex paint is that it truly seals the wood. Also, as cracks develope, it opens right up. Anchorseal doesn't fully seal it, so it can dry slowly and evenly. It also soaks in a bit so helps with small cracks.
Dietrich
Dietrich
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got my $0.02
I used Gulf parafin wax for years. I fire up the BBQ and put a pot of water on it. Then I drop in a block of wax. Old paint brush and Wala! you can seal the ends of coarse woods with brushable hot wax. Really cheap!
I used Gulf parafin wax for years. I fire up the BBQ and put a pot of water on it. Then I drop in a block of wax. Old paint brush and Wala! you can seal the ends of coarse woods with brushable hot wax. Really cheap!
Sealer is best
I am only at this a couple years. In my job I have access to virtually hunderds of gallons of free glue, don't ask. I tried glue, it works OK but it is a messy task and can take forever to dry when the garage is cold. You also can not allow PVA (white/yellow) glue to freeze and my loevly and generous wife does not enjoy having a 5 gllon pail of glue in her laundry room. Old paint has some of the same problems and as said doesn't work quite as well. Therefore Andchorseal or some of the store brand sealers are the best choice and at $15 per gallon are not that expensive when you think about what a big bowl blank would cost you at the hardwood supplier. Buy a gallon and fill a sports bottle with it then use an old paint brush to spread it around. This method is handy and less waste than puoring into a cup or can then brushing.
Good luck with your new hobby and be ready to explain to your kids that the tools rack and all that sawdust and shavings on the garage floor could have been thier college fund but you enjoy turning more than they need an education.
Frank
I am only at this a couple years. In my job I have access to virtually hunderds of gallons of free glue, don't ask. I tried glue, it works OK but it is a messy task and can take forever to dry when the garage is cold. You also can not allow PVA (white/yellow) glue to freeze and my loevly and generous wife does not enjoy having a 5 gllon pail of glue in her laundry room. Old paint has some of the same problems and as said doesn't work quite as well. Therefore Andchorseal or some of the store brand sealers are the best choice and at $15 per gallon are not that expensive when you think about what a big bowl blank would cost you at the hardwood supplier. Buy a gallon and fill a sports bottle with it then use an old paint brush to spread it around. This method is handy and less waste than puoring into a cup or can then brushing.
Good luck with your new hobby and be ready to explain to your kids that the tools rack and all that sawdust and shavings on the garage floor could have been thier college fund but you enjoy turning more than they need an education.
Frank
Anchor sealer
I have stated that I have used latex paint as a sealer for years with no problem,but since getting into turning and proccesing my own wood I was going to try out anchor seal.I keep seeing these 15.00 bucks a gallon prices pop up,but the cheapest price I have been able to find it at is 30.00 bucks a gal.plus S&H.If someone can tell me where I can get it at a decent price I would love to try it out.Apreciate what help I can get.I live in Tampa and NC.
Thanks
Ken
I have stated that I have used latex paint as a sealer for years with no problem,but since getting into turning and proccesing my own wood I was going to try out anchor seal.I keep seeing these 15.00 bucks a gallon prices pop up,but the cheapest price I have been able to find it at is 30.00 bucks a gal.plus S&H.If someone can tell me where I can get it at a decent price I would love to try it out.Apreciate what help I can get.I live in Tampa and NC.
Thanks
Ken
Anchorseal
Ken,
Go to https://www.uccoatings.com/ and you'll find all the info to buy direct from the manufacturer. Current price for a 5 gal pail including freight is about $50. You can also call them at 1-888-END-COAT. Good people. If you're in a cold area, you'll want to keep the pail inside. They make a version with antifreeze incorporated, but it's more expensive.
M
PS You'll be fine in Tampa, but NC will get too chilly for outside storage.
woodsmanplus said:
Ken,
Go to https://www.uccoatings.com/ and you'll find all the info to buy direct from the manufacturer. Current price for a 5 gal pail including freight is about $50. You can also call them at 1-888-END-COAT. Good people. If you're in a cold area, you'll want to keep the pail inside. They make a version with antifreeze incorporated, but it's more expensive.
M
PS You'll be fine in Tampa, but NC will get too chilly for outside storage.
Last edited:
Would you consider Artisan Woodsealer instead?
I have not used AnchorSeal or anything like it yet, but I bought me a quart of Artisan Wood Sealer when I was down at Craft Supplies a couple weeks a ago. As far as I know, it's what THEY use. I could have bought a gallon for $16 or 5 gallons for $70, but I figured that the $1 premium for getting just a quart made sense for my initial trial with it.
HERE is a picture of the actual container and label.
I have not used AnchorSeal or anything like it yet, but I bought me a quart of Artisan Wood Sealer when I was down at Craft Supplies a couple weeks a ago. As far as I know, it's what THEY use. I could have bought a gallon for $16 or 5 gallons for $70, but I figured that the $1 premium for getting just a quart made sense for my initial trial with it.
HERE is a picture of the actual container and label.
Kerry,
Looks like you are the proud owner of an Anchorseal-type product, if not a privately labeled version of Anchorseal.
Looks like you are the proud owner of an Anchorseal-type product, if not a privately labeled version of Anchorseal.
Yep, that wouldn't surprise me one bit.
I might even get to use it soon - a coworker has volunteered to give me a section of trunk from a tree that he recently took down in his yard.
I don't guess I'll be in a position to give a "final" review of the Artisan product for a while 🙄 but if anyone cares I could certainly take pictures of what the stuff looks like when it's brushed on and after it dries. 😕
I might even get to use it soon - a coworker has volunteered to give me a section of trunk from a tree that he recently took down in his yard.
I don't guess I'll be in a position to give a "final" review of the Artisan product for a while 🙄 but if anyone cares I could certainly take pictures of what the stuff looks like when it's brushed on and after it dries. 😕
- Joined
- May 16, 2005
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Water, paraffin, non-sudsing surfactant and a big blender. Or water emulsion wax from your local janitorial supply if they still carry it. Military loved buffer marks, so we always had to use soft wax.
Now the dark side. If you use it and your wood can't dry fast enough, it gives black mildew a good foothold. Be cautious on light-colored woods, spinning as much unbound water as you can out on the lathe, allow to dry under a roof until the surface is even in color - no dark wet surfaces on the endgrain - and then apply before racking if you feel you need it.
For logs, wouldn't waste the time. Staple a piece of cardboard over the end to slow loss and discard the end checks as you harvest blanks, or heap the chainsaw shavings over the end. Highest percentage of usable wood goes to roughed blanks, so the sooner you reduce your log to them, the better. Second to whole log harvested as needed. Lowest to "turning blanks," which have as a couple have mentioned, a greater or lesser tendency to develop radial checks, depending on the species.
Now the dark side. If you use it and your wood can't dry fast enough, it gives black mildew a good foothold. Be cautious on light-colored woods, spinning as much unbound water as you can out on the lathe, allow to dry under a roof until the surface is even in color - no dark wet surfaces on the endgrain - and then apply before racking if you feel you need it.
For logs, wouldn't waste the time. Staple a piece of cardboard over the end to slow loss and discard the end checks as you harvest blanks, or heap the chainsaw shavings over the end. Highest percentage of usable wood goes to roughed blanks, so the sooner you reduce your log to them, the better. Second to whole log harvested as needed. Lowest to "turning blanks," which have as a couple have mentioned, a greater or lesser tendency to develop radial checks, depending on the species.
I guess I was wrong
I just checked on the Woodcraft website and thier Green Wood Sealer is $19+ per gallon, see link http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=769
This is the one I use and I like it. I don't have to worry about freezing, easist to clean up and it works.
Frank
I just checked on the Woodcraft website and thier Green Wood Sealer is $19+ per gallon, see link http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=769
This is the one I use and I like it. I don't have to worry about freezing, easist to clean up and it works.
Frank
Thanks Mark
I was at that site and thats where I found it for 27.00.Sorry thought they said 30.00 plus S&H.My error.Anyway the weather is not a problem for me as mamma don't stay where it gets cold.When I saw that price I didn't go any further,but I went back and checked and It's 51.50 for 5 gal.total price.Sure get cheaper as you buy more.
thanks
Ken
I was at that site and thats where I found it for 27.00.Sorry thought they said 30.00 plus S&H.My error.Anyway the weather is not a problem for me as mamma don't stay where it gets cold.When I saw that price I didn't go any further,but I went back and checked and It's 51.50 for 5 gal.total price.Sure get cheaper as you buy more.
thanks
Ken
If you ask, UC Coatings will send you a 1 quart sample for free.
JimQ
JimQ
Thanks Jim,I had read somewhere that you could get a free sample somewhere,but couldn't remember where.I'll give em a call in the morn.
Thanks folks
Ken
Thanks folks
Ken
Called up this morn about the anchorseal.Got one on the way.Seems like real nice folks.Thanks for the info.Have a great and safe day.
Ken
Ken
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
You don't say where you live, but Woodcraft has it in the $19 range, or you can buy it direct. Your best bet is to buy 5 gallons probably.
Our club bought 55 gallons and sold it for about $5/gal
Check https://www.uccoatings.com/uccoat.php and see what it would cost to send it to your house.
Our club bought 55 gallons and sold it for about $5/gal
Check https://www.uccoatings.com/uccoat.php and see what it would cost to send it to your house.
I bought 5 gallons which was $65 including shipping from NY to TX. That was about 2.5 years ago and I bought another gallon locally. That 5 gallons was good for processing about 350 pieces (rough logs -> blanks -> bowls, platters, vases, etc). That's about $0.20 per piece.
The cost is pretty much inconsequential compared to the amount of time invested in each piece. Even if it was $1.00/piece it still wouldn't be very expensive. It's so cheap that I use it like someone else was paying for it.
The cost is pretty much inconsequential compared to the amount of time invested in each piece. Even if it was $1.00/piece it still wouldn't be very expensive. It's so cheap that I use it like someone else was paying for it.