Just started using a screw chuck in attempt to save time (over face plate). The blank tightens down so hard that I can't get it off after roughing the outside. I have to open the jaws, take the blank off and then use a wrench to back out the screw chuck. Needless to say, I'm not saving any time. What's the secret?
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Screw chuck
- Thread starter Brian Grenia
- Start date
Odie
Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!
Use a strap wrench.
Work pieces and bowls tend to tighten with heavy cuts and.........catches!
ooc
You'll see a strap wrench that I lengthened to fit around larger objects just above the garbage can. At some size point, larger turnings can be removed without the strap wrench, because larger bowls have a mechanical advantage for turning them off the screw center chuck. In your case, a worm screw held by your chuck.
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at the risk of asking the obvious...
have you tried to loosen it with the spindle locked? Does the spindle on your lathe have a lock? There are ways to jury rig, if necessary.
have you tried to loosen it with the spindle locked? Does the spindle on your lathe have a lock? There are ways to jury rig, if necessary.
Sounds like your screw whole is too tight... try going up one drill size I use a 5/16 for my 3/8 s wood worm screw and words great for both hard and soft woods that is green and dried. I think that might be the problem, cause I was having some of the same issues too.
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Brian,
I try to tighten the bowl onto the screw well.
Drill the right size hole for the screw. I use 10mm for the ONEWAY screw.
The longer you leave wet wood on the screw the tighter it gets. I rarely take more than 10 minute to rough the outside of bowl.
If your new to turning you will turn each bowl faster.
You can put Wax, wd40 etc on the screw.
To loosen I lock the spindle or put a Tommy bar in the chuck that I rest on the tool rest so I have two hands to turn the bowl off.
I got myself into a little trouble a few weeks ago in a demo where I was turning a bowl on a screw. I had finished turing the outside but discovered I had forgotten to ease the edge of the rim.
So I could not pull on the rim hard because it would cut me. It was a powermatic and I needed two hands so I pushed the lock in and got both hands on it and got if free.
Most bowls I start between centers using a spur drive and tail stock to old the bowl.
The screw center is one of the most secure ways to rough a bowl.
Between center is good if you don't get catches. A catch will turn the spur into a drill bit.
Have fun
Al
I try to tighten the bowl onto the screw well.
Drill the right size hole for the screw. I use 10mm for the ONEWAY screw.
The longer you leave wet wood on the screw the tighter it gets. I rarely take more than 10 minute to rough the outside of bowl.
If your new to turning you will turn each bowl faster.
You can put Wax, wd40 etc on the screw.
To loosen I lock the spindle or put a Tommy bar in the chuck that I rest on the tool rest so I have two hands to turn the bowl off.
I got myself into a little trouble a few weeks ago in a demo where I was turning a bowl on a screw. I had finished turing the outside but discovered I had forgotten to ease the edge of the rim.
So I could not pull on the rim hard because it would cut me. It was a powermatic and I needed two hands so I pushed the lock in and got both hands on it and got if free.
Most bowls I start between centers using a spur drive and tail stock to old the bowl.
The screw center is one of the most secure ways to rough a bowl.
Between center is good if you don't get catches. A catch will turn the spur into a drill bit.
Have fun
Al
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