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Scott Douglass

S

Scott Douglass

Joined
Jan 30, 2021
Messages
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Location
Rochester Hills, MI
Hello Folks,
I spent the last 25 years building custom cabinetry, finish carpentry and general remodeling work. A couple of years ago I purchased a 12" x 36" Grizzly lathe from a customer and have been anxious to dive into it. I'm new to wood turning and would love some insight as to techniques, stance, how to hold tools, adjust the tool rest and just about anything else that would help. I have been through a multitude of You Tube videos (too many) and really haven't picked up the basics. So far I've managed to turn a walnut mallet and a small spalted maple bowl out of my firewood pile. Since then I've purchased a Super-Nova 2 chuck bundle, a Wolverine sharpening system with the Vari-grind 2 and I've got several different chisels that I've picked up here and there. What a difference sharp chisels make!
I'm semi-retired and really want to get more involved in turning. Anyone have a suggestion as to where I can find some good basic starting points for turning techniques? I did just find a book online: 'A Course In Wood Turning' by Archie S. Milton and Otto K. Wohlers from 1919. I'm sure some techniques may have changed since then, but it may be worth a look. Looking forward to any suggestions.Spalted maple bowl cropped.jpg
 
His video makes a lot of sense and, from what I can tell, makes control a lot more precise. I have always used my core to control movement when doing things like routing. Always more accurate and easier for control. I was surprised by what I read in 'A Course In Wood Turning' about position:

POSITION OF THE OPERATOR
The operator stands firmly on the floor back far enough from the lathe to allow him to pass the tools from right to left in front of his body without changing the position of the feet. It may be found convenient to turn slightly, bringing the left side of the body a little closer to the lathe. In no case, however, should the tools be brought in contact with the body as the cutting operation from right to left should be accomplished by a movement of the arms alone and not the swaying of the body.

Thanks for your response Owen
 
Welcome! It is a good move to join a local chapter. Chapters are a great source for learning and having mentors to help.
 
Welcome to the forum. There are lots of good videos out there. Check out Reed Gray (Robo Hippy), John Lucas, Lyle Jamieson, Stuart Batty, and there are more but these are some basic teachers. Do not look for a project video but how to sharpen, basic bowl gouge, Stuart has several videos he calls the Seven Basics.
 
Scott Douglass said:
His video makes a lot of sense and, from what I can tell, makes control a lot more precise. I have always used my core to control movement when doing things like routing. Always more accurate and easier for control. I was surprised by what I read in 'A Course In Wood Turning' about position:

POSITION OF THE OPERATOR
The operator stands firmly on the floor back far enough from the lathe to allow him to pass the tools from right to left in front of his body without changing the position of the feet. It may be found convenient to turn slightly, bringing the left side of the body a little closer to the lathe. In no case, however, should the tools be brought in contact with the body as the cutting operation from right to left should be accomplished by a movement of the arms alone and not the swaying of the body.

Thanks for your response Owen
Click to expand...

This is from the 1919 A Course In Wood Turning book, right? I'm fairly certain that the tools of 100 years ago were not of the same length as the current long-handle style of the last 25-30 years. Take a look at vintage Craftsman or Monkey Wards tool sets of the '50s to '80s -- the entire tool length was on the order of 12"-14". You could probably maneuver these short tools similarly to the 1919 book advice. Additionally, the turning in 1919 was largely spindle orientation and smallish bowls using continental gouges and scrapers. I don't believe the deep fluted bowl gouges existed then - I think they were a development in the '70s or '80s. Large bowls were hand carved using carving gouges, scorps, and adzes. Leverage and stability offered by long-handled tools was unnecessary so it's not that surprising our current body positioning advice differs.

One last thought... long sweeping curves (like on a moderate to large sized bowl) require stable whole body movements to ensure a smooth sweep. Spindle coves and beads don't have such long curves and rely on smaller muscle groups (wrist and hand twists and squeezes) to achieve.
 
Welcome aboard, Scott. The best way to learn is to get with a mentor although the pandemic has put a damper on that for the time being. The Detroit Area Woodturners meet in Pontiac. Here is their Contact Information. You could call then to see if they are having virtual meetings using Zoom and also inquire about their Mentoring Program.
 
John Torchick said:
Welcome! It is a good move to join a local chapter. Chapters are a great source for learning and having mentors to help.
Click to expand...
Yes. I've been looking at that. Right now everything is over Zoom.
Owen Lowe said:
This is from the 1919 A Course In Wood Turning book, right? I'm fairly certain that the tools of 100 years ago were not of the same length as the current long-handle style of the last 25-30 years. Take a look at vintage Craftsman or Monkey Wards tool sets of the '50s to '80s -- the entire tool length was on the order of 12"-14". You could probably maneuver these short tools similarly to the 1919 book advice. Additionally, the turning in 1919 was largely spindle orientation and smallish bowls using continental gouges and scrapers. I don't believe the deep fluted bowl gouges existed then - I think they were a development in the '70s or '80s. Large bowls were hand carved using carving gouges, scorps, and adzes. Leverage and stability offered by long-handled tools was unnecessary so it's not that surprising our current body positioning advice differs.

One last thought... long sweeping curves (like on a moderate to large sized bowl) require stable whole body movements to ensure a smooth sweep. Spindle coves and beads don't have such long curves and rely on smaller muscle groups (wrist and hand twists and squeezes) to achieve.
Click to expand...
I'm sure you are correct. I got a link to the book through one of the many websites I've visited.
 
Gerald Lawrence said:
Welcome to the forum. There are lots of good videos out there. Check out Reed Gray (Robo Hippy), John Lucas, Lyle Jamieson, Stuart Batty, and there are more but these are some basic teachers. Do not look for a project video but how to sharpen, basic bowl gouge, Stuart has several videos he calls the Seven Basics.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the leads Gerald. I'll check them all out. I've run across Stuart Batty and Robo Hippy a few times on the web.
 
Bill Boehme said:
Welcome aboard, Scott. The best way to learn is to get with a mentor although the pandemic has put a damper on that for the time being. The Detroit Area Woodturners meet in Pontiac. Here is their Contact Information. You could call then to see if they are having virtual meetings using Zoom and also inquire about their Mentoring Program.
Click to expand...
They are meeting via Zoom. I have spoken to a couple of their members at local demos in the past. I'm definitely going to connect with them, being local.
 
Thanks Lamar. I've found a lot of good information here. I just wish we could get past this virus thing and be able to experience some one on one turning. I really need guidance.
 
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