I would appreciate it if you guys would share your thoughts on the application of "sanding sealer" on a project. When (or if) you routinely use it...what is your "go to" sealer...etc. I try every finish that floats down the pike and I'm currently interested in the Waterlox/Tung/Ti/etc. finishes so I would particularly be interested to know if you guys routinely use sanding sealer for oil applications.
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Sanding Sealer
- Thread starter Donovan Bailey
- Start date
I have been using Bullseye Sanding sealer which is just a thinned unwaxed shellac. The finish after application and second sanding is definitely smoother. Tired a brush on Lacquer recently and wasn't impressed. I have been making some small parts that require painting and the shellac based sealer is working.
I use Zinsser unwaxed Bulls Eye for things that I am going to dye and inside of hollow forms as a sealer. I don’t use it on anything that will have an oil finish, but if lacquer or poly I usually use it.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Ive.never used sanding sealer and dont see any need to start. I've tried all.kinds of finishes including shellac and sanding sealer and just dont see the need for it.
I haven't used a sanding sealer, but what I hear other experienced woodworkers using is shellac, usually 1 lb cut. Apparently shellac will adhere to any other top coat material.
I have one surface coat product that I have stuck with (it works; it's easy). I use Bartley Gel Stain, Clear, basically varnish, which I believe is an alkyd resin polyurethane blend. It yields a satin, light amber finish which is not to thick and just what I want. I sand the wood surface to P600 before the varnish coat is applied. I apply 3 coats, which I do not sand. The final surface feels smooth, at least to my touch.
@Perry Hilbert , and others who use sanding sealers, I am also currious to know to what grit (CAMI vs P) you sanded to before the sealer was applied, and what grit you use to smooth the sealer coat?
I have one surface coat product that I have stuck with (it works; it's easy). I use Bartley Gel Stain, Clear, basically varnish, which I believe is an alkyd resin polyurethane blend. It yields a satin, light amber finish which is not to thick and just what I want. I sand the wood surface to P600 before the varnish coat is applied. I apply 3 coats, which I do not sand. The final surface feels smooth, at least to my touch.
@Perry Hilbert , and others who use sanding sealers, I am also currious to know to what grit (CAMI vs P) you sanded to before the sealer was applied, and what grit you use to smooth the sealer coat?
Dont use sanding sealers and dont see a need for them. I do use dewaxed shellac inside hollow forms but as a wood sealer not a sanding sealer. I use thinned solvent poly extensively on turnings. Tested many oil and oil/varnish mixes, and found solvent poly to be the best. Can be applied many ways depending on the look desired. For hi gloss fully filled finished I spray solvent laquer, self sealing.
As said above Zinser's Bulls Eye Sanding sealer is just a thinned unwaxed shellac. On small pieces that I use in other things, I sand to 400 grit, seal and then a light sanding of 400 again. For some reason, If I don't put some sort of sealer on the wood, the paint adheres very unevenly. and the piece looks like crap. I made part for music boxes and am so bad at paitning, that I am afraid to start .
I use Lenmar Water White Vinyl Sanding Sealer. Its meant for lacquer finishes and most every company makes vinyl sealer, but Lenmar seems to have the highest solids content. On wood turnings I always wipe it on.
I use it about half of the time for these reasons.
I apply it while the piece is on the lathe and it makes it easy to spot any defects in my sanding.
It improves my finish as it makes any wood whiskers stiff and easy to sand off.
It improves the wear resistance of a lacquer finish. Sherwin Williams says it is mandatory to use it before using lacquer on kitchen cabinets.
It can reduce splotchy oil finishes on some woods like cherry. It does this by reducing oil absorption into the wood. Of course shellac is probably the standard for this use. End grain almost always adsorbs more oil than face grain causing a difference in sheen. May or may not be desirable.
I use it about half of the time for these reasons.
I apply it while the piece is on the lathe and it makes it easy to spot any defects in my sanding.
It improves my finish as it makes any wood whiskers stiff and easy to sand off.
It improves the wear resistance of a lacquer finish. Sherwin Williams says it is mandatory to use it before using lacquer on kitchen cabinets.
It can reduce splotchy oil finishes on some woods like cherry. It does this by reducing oil absorption into the wood. Of course shellac is probably the standard for this use. End grain almost always adsorbs more oil than face grain causing a difference in sheen. May or may not be desirable.
I've always used Mylands sanding sealer on raw wood (sanded to 400 - 600 grit) before painting, adding resin or hydro-dip embellishments. The sealer acts like a primer and helps with adhesion.
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john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Yes I do agree. some sort of sealer is needed before painting. I said I never use sanding sealer but often use thinned finish as a first coat before painting. Not necessarily sanding sealer but a thinned coat of finish.
On wooden pens, I use Deft (lacquer-based) sanding sealer, cut 50/50 with lacquer thinner, followed by CA finish. For most other work, I do not use sanding sealer unless the wood is punky or I'm having trouble with torn grain.
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On some pieces I use thin shellac - double the alcohol- 1 lb cut
if a piece is likely to absorb finish unevenly in areas like punky wood or endgrain of a light colored wood
After sanding with 320 I apply the thin shellac and after it dries( 5 minutes) hand sand with 400.
if I want a finish to build up quickly the shellac will reduce the number of coats needed.
if a piece is likely to absorb finish unevenly in areas like punky wood or endgrain of a light colored wood
After sanding with 320 I apply the thin shellac and after it dries( 5 minutes) hand sand with 400.
if I want a finish to build up quickly the shellac will reduce the number of coats needed.
I Dilute water based poly 50/50. Rub it on (lathe not running) with a lint free cloth and immediately rub it off with a different clean lint free cloth. After 2 coats, Raised grain is lightly sanded with 800 grid sponge pad. When a good burnish results after a rub on the lathe with a cloth usually after 4 or 5 applications and your ready for Beale polishing. I’ve used the same method with diluted shellac, both yielding beautiful gallery high gloss finishes but I prefer poly because of durability.
If painting u might try gesso....i usually use 2 thin coats
I use zinsser sealcoat thinned 50/50 with denatured alcohol. I tend to use my sanding sealer on decorative pieces, much less on regular bowls. I will use it with drying oil finishes as well. I find it helps the wood absorb the oil more evenly. I usually just apply with a paper towel, let it dry and sand it back with either the last grit or sometimes 0000 steel wool.
I've been using Mylands sealer, followed up with Yorkshire Grit...