So let's summarize:
1. There is really such a thing as "sanding folklore"
2. Skipping grits is OK (don't see why we couldn't just start with 600, cheaper and easier, as we wouldn't need to remove those 100 grit scratches since they wouldn't be there)
3. reversing rotation does nothing
Correct?
I think you are catching on, Richard........
😀
The thing to remember about MM, and Bill for that matter.......is that they don't seem to understand the concept that results are the ONE AND ONLY thing that really matters. They have a lack of understanding that other turners can, and do reach the desired results in a fashion that suits them because of their individual differing techniques.
Call it what you will, but the mentality is the "teacher/student" sort of thing...... Of those of us who have some "stick time" on the lathe, there is a lot of disagreement........but, again, the ONE AND ONLY thing that matters is RESULTS. It should be understood there are those who post here who give loads of advice, but don't show you their results at all......or, any recent results. (This is an internet forum thing......where the real physical world takes on less significance than words and concepts do.) If we were talking about a football game, we'd call these people "arm-chair quarterbacks"!
Everyone here, which includes MM and Bill, have something to offer the rest of us turners. We MUST learn to pick and choose advice which will apply, and to do some "hands on" testing of theories brought forth by others here. Not everything is going to be helpful for our own "journey", but there have been many times when forum participants have managed to make me think.....evaluate......test......and apply newly acquired knowledge.......as it relates to my concept of where I want to take it. I have changed, because I am not here to leverage myself into the "forum pecking order" as "the knowledgeable one". I have come here to improve my own efforts at the lathe......and, I have done exactly that! If I can help a few others to make some sense of turning, that's great.....but, the bottom line is I understand what works for me, may not be what works for others......
Now.......if you want to participate in arguing the point, that's what you will get with MM, and a few others. At some point, I.....as well as others, need to understand that we will NOT ever have the last word in exchanges with certain people. Say your piece, and exchange thoughts a few times, but let it stand on it's own merits. Most of us (at this stage of our lives) understand that not having the last word doesn't mean your thoughts don't stand up to honest contemplation, evaluation and testing. The others will just have to figure it out!
😉
ooc
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If Joe Famous said it ....
I find this to be a very PROFOUND statement by MM. There is a lot of hero worshiping going on in the turning community. I suppose this is what feeds the "herd". All of the famous turners got to where they are because they deserved some recognition.......but, these people put their pants on just like the rest of us do. They definitely have ideas and knowledge that others can use......but, again, we MUST learn what information can, and cannot apply to our own ideas/concepts of just where we want to steer our own course......
........that is, if you want your turnings to be distinctly yours.....and, not of the herd. :cool2:
ooc
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Getting back to the original point:
I am not getting the same results on the inside of bowls as the outside. Swirl marks do not seem to go away.
I would like to hear from others as how to get a quality sanding finish on the inside of bowls.
I usually go 60 to 320 grit using a foam hook and loop.
Thank,
Jeff
Jeff......As Bill pointed out, the information you are giving us leaves a lot for speculation of what your problems are. I do have some thoughts on this that may help, and I think you are having difficulty with the finer grits just prior to applying a finish......(not, a matter of eliminating scratching left by previous grits.)
There are a couple of methods I use to deal with these things, and you may want to do some testing. If you have a random orbital sander, it can be used at the final grit you use with regular sandpaper. I usually stop at either 400 or 600 final sanding by hand (lathe spinning at around 300rpm), and then do the same grit with a random orbital sander with lathe spinning at very slow rpm.....around 25rpm, or so. Sometimes this can be done with the workpiece being turned on the lathe with power off. In many cases, the results can be very close to "perfection". (I have a Grex 2" random orbital sander for this.)
Sometimes, I do not realize there are still swirl marks remaining, until after the bowl is removed from the lathe, and finish is applied. This is usually my fault, because if I had been more observant, I would have seen the minute swirl marks in the first place! At the point where the finish is already applied, and while the finish is still wet, I can still take care of the problem by "wet sanding" with 0000 steel wool. This can be done by hand, but I have a special jig that holds a wad of steel wool on a powerlock mandrel. This is much faster, but needs to be done at a very slow rpm on your drill. I use Danish oil on my bowls, so take this into advisement.......some finishes may not work as well with this technique.........
I think someone else mentioned lighting in this thread, and it's an important point. I have 4' shop fluorescent lights suspended a couple feet above my head level and directly over the lathe headstock......, and two incandescent positionable lamps on the lathe headstock. My particular set-up may not be optimum for everyone, but what I do think is important is to have a "sweep" of at least two light sources on your workpiece. The two (or more) directions of lighting is that which makes flaws show up better.
ooc
