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sanding crosscut poplar wood
- Thread starter squirrel
- Start date
You might try a few approaches.
1 Take very light finishing passes with a very sharp tool. I like a scraper with a negative rake grind.
2) If your lathe is reversable, try sanding in both directions at each grit.
3) Coat the the "fluffed" areas with a quick drying finish like shellac. Then sand. It seems to force the wood fibers to stand "proud" for removal by sanding.
Hope this helps.
Jerry
1 Take very light finishing passes with a very sharp tool. I like a scraper with a negative rake grind.
2) If your lathe is reversable, try sanding in both directions at each grit.
3) Coat the the "fluffed" areas with a quick drying finish like shellac. Then sand. It seems to force the wood fibers to stand "proud" for removal by sanding.
Hope this helps.
Jerry
- Joined
- May 16, 2005
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Goes with the wood. The whole willow family, including the true poplars, are fuzzy and fine-fibered. Sand along the grain after a P400, then dampen the piece, let dry, and sand again. Sanding round-and-round in either or both directions won't make a bit of difference.
If it's still giving you the wrong feel, use thinned shellac or lacquer as a sanding sealer as suggested, where you sand the finish rather than just the wood.
The good news is that the grain reversals that give you the fuzzies can be quite attractive with the proper finish.
If it's still giving you the wrong feel, use thinned shellac or lacquer as a sanding sealer as suggested, where you sand the finish rather than just the wood.
The good news is that the grain reversals that give you the fuzzies can be quite attractive with the proper finish.
Here's an idea
I use mohawk pre-catalyzed sanding sealer in an aerosol can, can recoat every few minutes then after 2 or 3 coats sand. sometimes takes 1 coat sometimes 3 or 4.
I use mohawk pre-catalyzed sanding sealer in an aerosol can, can recoat every few minutes then after 2 or 3 coats sand. sometimes takes 1 coat sometimes 3 or 4.