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Sanding Bowls and Platters need recomendations!

Joined
Nov 5, 2005
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Location
Chesterton Indiana
So whats the best system one can get for speed and scratch pattern on bowls and platters ranging from 5" to 16" bowls and platters up to 20" + .
My fingers are wearing out so tell me the best methods and where to get the equipment and consumables sandpaper for a reasonable cost. I need both access to small spaces along inside's and larger exterior surfaces.
I'm having the greatest trouble with inside of bowls end grain .
Thanks
 
Best? Best is not to sand. Take special care with the last couple of passes and sharpen the gouge, regardless. One trip to the hone worth two grades.

I like to sand supported, same way I cut, so I use a flexible shaft I can rest on the toolrest and sand under power to help randomize direction. Since I like shiny finishes, I have to pay special attention to not dig, so only at 320 will I turn the lathe off.

I use Power Lock disks for their wear characteristics and their ability to bridge gaps and soft spots, as well as the soft-back Velcro stuff occasionally. 2" for the Power Lock, 3" for the soft stuff to keep things broadly level. Any of these available at Packard or Craft Supplies as well as other places. Prolong their useful life by favoring the center of the disk on convex surfaces, since concave will always involve more edge. You can see the basics at http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/...t=SettingBottom.flv&refPage=&imgAnch=imgAnch3

If you decide to go with the flex shaft, I wouldn't recommend grits coarser than 100/120, especially in 3" sizes because it can torque your wrist pretty well if you're sanding with the piece stationary and using a salvage 1/3 horse 1725 motor as I am. `
 
You might try checking with one of our moderators, Steve Worcester His web site
He sells velcro-backed sanding discs for your drill and sanding pads in many grits. They are great quality and good prices.....
 
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Careful cuts will start you at 150+ the vast majority of the time. If you have to start at 60-100 regularly, you're probably tearing the wood. If so, get together with a local turner and get a bit of coaching. Worked wonders for me and saves me huge amounts of time.

First, Google a wonderful product called Rhynogrip. You can buy it from Industrial Abrasives for about 10-15$ per 3ftx3ft sheet. They actually sell at a discount to turning clubs to you can get together with folks and make a large order to cut shipping costs. Turns out that you don't need to cut rounds to get good sanding. Just cut 3x3 squares. This kinda imitates the wavy edge discs you can buy and is much quicker and simpler. Cutting it yourself (I just keep heavy scissors next to my pile of sheets) drops you cost to about 15cents a disc.

Second, a 3" drill mount disc holder, as available from any handy Woodcraft or Rockler. Make sure you get a set cause the soft extension pads make curves go smoother. Also, once you're using it, don't let it overheat. You'll melt the velcro right off (believe me, I know this).

Third, go to Overstock.com. You can pick up a 55degree angle drill for about $40. Not nearly as nice as the Souix drills but, at a fifth the cost, quite effective. Had mine for a year and no problems. Much easier on the hands than a regular drill and can get down into things.

Finally, that flexible shaft that Michael was talking about. You can use the tool rest as brace and weight support while sanding curves and inside pieces.

Have fun,
Dietrich
 
Thanks for the advice.
Not having what I would call a tearout problem as much as an end grain problem. Seems to be on the inside rims / along sides of bowls just above where the side meets the bottom on two oposite sides. Probably a technique issue more than anything else but I've tried everything I know shear scraping and the like but it doesn't solve it so I have to sand these two difficult areas even tried reversing direction and had some luck but not nearly as good as the rest of the pieces surfaces. I'll maybe try and post a pic of the offending areas and you may have some added advice thanks
Tim
Thanks
 
tjchigh71 said:
Thanks for the advice.
Not having what I would call a tearout problem as much as an end grain problem. Seems to be on the inside rims / along sides of bowls just above where the side meets the bottom on two oposite sides.

What you describe is the classic tearout problem. Main thing you can do to help yourself is forget turning corners so rapidly. It's a setup for tearout or bevel bruising.

Going back to the three P's, you need to poke across the endgrain on as narrow a face as possible, and try to avoid that abrupt change of direction if you can. That will allow you to get some reasonable paring going around the transition and avoid the bruises you can get from digging the heel in a too small radius. Otherwise you may poke with a pointed tool to the bottom, than change both direction and perhaps the tool at the transition.

You should not have this problem on convex surfaces, because you have all the room in the world to change cutting angle to increase the poke as you approach 90 degrees to the grain. Don't know what type of gouge you're using, but I find shallow profile to be the best at getting the exit cut at 90 degrees while keeping a reasonable paring reference on the bevel to avoid ridging.

The shaving you want, whether exterior or interior, is one which is feathered at the trailing edge, indicating that you're making the final exit at the smallest face possible. If I can find a picture, I'll post later.

If your problem is not classic tearout, which is to say it is on the endgrain prior to 12 or 6 o'clock rather than after, then you may be suffering from bevel bruise coming off the slick face into the end while pressing too hard. Position is one way of recognizing it, other is to wipe with some mineral spirits. Bruises stay light, tears look dark. Easy and obvious answer is to press less, though, as mentioned above, you may have curves smaller than the capability of your shortest radius gouge to contend with, and that's a setup.
 
Try what Michael describes. That will likely reduce or fix the problem.

Given all other methods unsucessful, try gumming a big blob of paste wax onto the tearout, rubbing it in well, then taking a very light cut or sanding. I've found that, in last ditch situations, this lubricates the wood fibers sufficient that they either cut or slip, rather than catching and tearing. Also, making sure that your tool is super sharp for that cut helps a bit.

Oh, if you use the wax method, don't forget to clean up with a bit of mineral spirits or your finish won't soak in or bind well.

Dietrich
 
Shavings as Instructors

Here's a set of pictures showing the kind of shavings I was describing. In this case they are from wet wood, where the difference is blatant. The leading edge is thick and smooth, the trailing edge ragged and thinly feathered. The gouge angles shown are what produces them. It's a 3/4 forged type in this case, with a mild round nose to give it a bit of poke.

If you look at the gouge images left on the wood, you'll notice that the shavings are first peeled along the grain as the tool advances, and severed by a nearly vertical section of edge. That's what you are after, the final cut across the grain, with the edge trailing off. Peel with a poke.

You want to pay good attention on your method of entering the wood. I like to make a stroke in by shifting my weight, my hands locked, the elbows braced on my body. If the gouge is going to catch or run, it'll be on entry, which is almost all poke, swinging into the peel. Once the bevel is established, you can pare your way down. With a broader gouge radius, it's easy to get a lot of bevel on the wood relative to the thickness of the shaving to keep from digging and tearing out. If you start getting pressure on the cut or chatter/bounce, shift your body in reverse and stroke in again as you started to reestablish the cut.

Since nobody who studied electronics ever forgot Violet of easy virtue, you should easily remember "every stroke begins with a poke." Gives you a clean, supported entry.
 

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First be sure to get a good finish cut. Once you get to sanding most people either power sand or use a random orbital sander (ROS). If you need to get out tools marks I recoomend power sanding starting at 80 grit. Tak your time! Slow the lathe down and simply get your tool marks out. Then progress through your grits. Once you are to 280-320 you can use a ROS with great results. SLow your speed on the lathe. Abrasives are a finishing tool! You may alternate directions to help sand standing grain. You may also contact me through my site if you have any questions or if I may help you more. www.Vinceswoodnwonders.com

Hope this helps, Vince
 
Quick question, Michael. Is that a bowl gouge you're using to do the inside or the large roughing gouge?

Dietrich
 
Neither. I pare inside with my large-radius forged types. In this case it's a big one, because I still had it in hand after the preliminary rounding. You can get a lot of bevel on the wood with 'em, so I like both the control and the finish.

Bowl gouge is for hogging or reaching when I can't get the rest close. Better choices, else.
 
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