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Salad bowls and expoxy

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OK - let me start by saying that I'm pretty sure it's not a good idea but I'm gonna ask anyway.

I did post this on anbothe forum too but knew there are people with experience who might not go to other forums.

I have a 14" diam walnut salad bowl rough turned. It has come beautiful figure. But a bark inclusion went in way deeper than expected.

With all these river tables people are making with wood and epoxy pours it made me wonder if that might be a viable option. Some of these tables I have seen have the voids in the table filled with colored epoxy, then sanded and finished with poly. Others I have seen where they coat the entire table with epoxy as the final finish. Yet, I never hear of any bonding failures due to wood movement between the wood & epoxy.

But with a salad bowls usually finished with a walnut or other food safe oil and washed and dried after use I was concerned about the amount of potential wood movement.


Has anyone had any experience long term with filling voids or cracks with colored resin/epoxy specifically on salad bowls?
Thanks
Ricc
 

Randy Anderson

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Ric, I've done it numerous times and no issues. I use two part JB Weld epoxy and mica powder for color if desired. My experience is the epoxy is very strong and the wood bond stays in place. I finish with walnut oil and wax same as usual. Another approach, depending on the size of the inclusion, is CA glue and dark sanding dust. If done right it will look just like a knot or solid dark wood inclusion area.
 

john lucas

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I have a friend who epoxies every bowl he sells. He doesnt have an issue with it and he is a retired nurse and his wife is a retired doctor.
 
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25yrs ago I made a cedar strip canoe that was fully coated on both sides with epoxy. No problem with epoxy-wood bonding integrity and stands up well to water :)
 
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25yrs ago I made a cedar strip canoe that was fully coated on both sides with epoxy. No problem with epoxy-wood bonding integrity and stands up well to water :)
Ron, thanks for the input. I wasn't planning on fully coating with epoxy. Iif fully coated I figure there wouldn't be as much of an issue. I was more concerned with just filling a void with epoxy and leaving the rest just natural wood with a walnut oil finish. Wasn't sure if there would be moe movement between the wood and epoxy in that situation or not.
 
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Ric, I've done it numerous times and no issues. I use two part JB Weld epoxy and mica powder for color if desired. My experience is the epoxy is very strong and the wood bond stays in place. I finish with walnut oil and wax same as usual. Another approach, depending on the size of the inclusion, is CA glue and dark sanding dust. If done right it will look just like a knot or solid dark wood inclusion area.
Thanks for the input Randy. I am glad to hear of some success with the epoxy filled voids. Although I will probably stay away from the CA and dust filled voids. I have heard many state that the CA gets brittle over time. Wouldn't want that to be an issue later.

I have a friend who epoxies every bowl he sells. He doesnt have an issue with it and he is a retired nurse and his wife is a retired doctor.
Thanks John! Some day I may try to figure out the process for a complete epoxy finish.
 
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I made a 14 inch sycamore bowl 4 years ago that I used alumilite amazing clear cast to fill a large knot hole. I sold it a year later and it was still solid. It traveled to many outdoor shows with lots of humidity changes since I store my wares in a humidity controlled basement. The hole I filled was around 2 inches and 1/4 inch thick.
 

hockenbery

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I made a 14 inch sycamore bowl 4 years ago that I used alumilite amazing clear cast to fill a large knot hole. I sold it a year later and it was still solid. It traveled to many outdoor shows with lots of humidity changes since I store my wares in a humidity controlled basement. The hole I filled was around 2 inches and 1/4 inch thick.
Chris - Thanks! That was one of my concerns since I do some summer arts/crafts shows.

Hockenberry - Thans for the video. While finishing with epxoy isn't my original concern I appreciate the video. I will definitely watch it!!
 
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Ricc, like Ron’s experience, I’ve made several wood boats (some cedar strip and some marine ply), including two Adirondack guide boats like the one in my avatar (at left). The guideboats are epoxy and glass on the exterior and just spar varnish on the trim and interior. Never had a problem with epoxy delaminating or moving differentially at the edges where it meets wood. Boats in some cases are 30+ years old.
 
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