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Ruined with mildew?

Odie

Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!
TOTW Team
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I'm normally very disappointed when I see mildew form on roughed bowls......but, this one may be the rare exception to the rule! I almost didn't even try to finish turn this bowl, because I was expecting it to be a complete failure......

The darker mildew stains may have made this more interesting, along with fairly plain maple grain, and spalting.

Does this mildew look ok to you.....or, am I just fooling myself?

ko
 

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nice form, nice finish if you like shinny, that is where you decide if you are a crow or not.......not much mildew on bottom........might do some experminations.......
 
I would say it is a keeper. The stains seem to be in harmony with the rest of the figuration and I think they add interest. I'm somewhat surprised to see mildew go so deeply into the blank. I don't see that often here with roughed out bowl blanks.
 
I would say it is a keeper. The stains seem to be in harmony with the rest of the figuration and I think they add interest. I'm somewhat surprised to see mildew go so deeply into the blank. I don't see that often here with roughed out bowl blanks.

My experience is the same, Dennis.....

I weigh and inspect roughed bowls each month for mildew and cracks. When I see mildew cropping up, I re-turn and take off a layer. Usually that eliminates all or most of the mildew, but this one was different. I've seen deep mildew before, but it's normally the exception to the rule. When the mildew can't be eliminated, a shape specifically intended to eliminate mildew is also in the cards......again, not with this one.

ko
 
I'm normally very disappointed when I see mildew form on roughed bowls......but, this one may be the rare exception to the rule! I almost didn't even try to finish turn this bowl, because I was expecting it to be a complete failure......

The darker mildew stains may have made this more interesting, along with fairly plain maple grain, and spalting.

Does this mildew look ok to you.....or, am I just fooling myself?

ko
I agree with Dennis -- fits and looks good. What is a killer to me is when the bowl is just grey in large sections. Your mildew has character.
 
I'm far from an expert on turning and wood but we turn wood that has mineral streaks in it. How about rust stains from nails, wire, etc. after they have been removed? The coloration of odie's bowl would lend to a unique look when turned and finished with the appropriate finish.
 
In common usage this is mold and not mildew. The difference is that mildew is a light gray to white color and has a powdery appearance. Mildew grows on top of damp surfaces. I have found that when black mold is on waxed wet turning blanks, I can almost bet that the mold will go just about all the way through. It's a matter of personal taste whether you like or don't like it.

You might be able to remove the mold stain with chlorine bleach. Household chlorine bleach might be sufficient, but if not you can try a much more powerful type which is sold as chlorine based shock oxidizer for swimming pools. There are various types of shock oxidizes so check the label to make certain that it is a hypochlorite salt (sodium, calcium, potassium, etc.). Oxalic acid generally doesn't work well on on mold stains since it is generally for removing stains caused by metallic oxides and other non-organic stains.

As an aside, the other type of bleach removes the color of the wood itself. It is a very hazardous bleach and consists of two parts: sodium hydroxide and 30% hydrogen peroxide. This used to be available as a two part bleach, but is no longer available. A clever person can find these chemicals to make their own bleach. Unless you are well versed in handling these hazardous materials then don't even think about using them.
 
I was wondering if it was spaulting? When I think of mold or mildew, I think of stuff on the surface, and not some thing that runs all the way through the wood... This coloring of the wood looks great.

robo hippy
 
it is not spaulting........
 
it is not spaulting........

It is, what it is, what it is.......or something like that! 😛

Bill may be correct about it not being mildew, and some kind of mold or bacteria. I have another piece of this wood, cut from the same log. It's roughed, but not finish turned yet. It doesn't look much different than the finished piece shown in this thread......sort of a sporadic blotchy mix of dark and light staining. I had a thought that the lighter color may be the initial stages of spalting......but could be wrong about that, too......🙄

ko
 
Up here maple is the most abundant wood, costs around 1.50/bdft and everybody has a woodstove so most of it gets burned for firewood. Most of the pieces I have encountered are boring because they're just blah. most pieces have tiger striping in them but no real variation in color and that's what I like best. Your piece has an almost ambrosia maple look with the streaks so yes i'd keep it. plus I don't imagine you get a finish like that in 2 minutes. there's always some who don't like it and some who love it! P.S. how'd you do the finish on that one?
On second look I have a bowl that has very very similar grain to it. mine is hard maple, most hard maples that I have used have more color than other types. I don't know how to post a picture or i'd show you what I'm talking about.
Chris
 
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Up here maple is the most abundant wood, costs around 1.50/bdft and everybody has a woodstove so most of it gets burned for firewood. Most of the pieces I have encountered are boring because they're just blah. most pieces have tiger striping in them but no real variation in color and that's what I like best. Your piece has an almost ambrosia maple look with the streaks so yes i'd keep it. plus I don't imagine you get a finish like that in 2 minutes. there's always some who don't like it and some who love it! P.S. how'd you do the finish on that one?
On second look I have a bowl that has very very similar grain to it. mine is hard maple, most hard maples that I have used have more color than other types. I don't know how to post a picture or i'd show you what I'm talking about.
Chris

Hiya Chris.......

The finish is a simple Danish Oil natural. The surface is sanded to 600 grit. The DO is applied in one coat but continually applied until the wood doesn't soak up any more. Then the final abrasive is 0000 steel wool applied wet with the DO while still on the lathe. After several days of drying, a Beall buffing 3-step method is done......

Is your tiger stripe maple the same as what others refer to as curly, or fiddleback......or, is it something else entirely?

ko
 
curly is different, tiger striped is much like fiddleback but fiddleback is more like the most figured tigerstripe. the terms are often interchangeable but curly is it's own bear. at least in my neck of the woods. I use the same finishing system as you, but I usually only go to 400, does the extra grit make that much difference?

striped maple
https://www.google.com/imgres?imgur...hXjtYMKHVUtC8Y4yAEQMwg8KDkwOQ&iact=mrc&uact=8

curly maple
http://www.bellforestproducts.com/_includes/product-photos/3524.jpg

fiddleback
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/e2/ff/3e/e2ff3e7676474a052a6ee1ffa6a739aa.jpg
 
curly is different, tiger striped is much like fiddleback but fiddleback is more like the most figured tigerstripe. the terms are often interchangeable but curly is it's own bear. at least in my neck of the woods. I use the same finishing system as you, but I usually only go to 400, does the extra grit make that much difference?

striped maple
https://www.google.com/imgres?imgur...hXjtYMKHVUtC8Y4yAEQMwg8KDkwOQ&iact=mrc&uact=8

curly maple
http://www.bellforestproducts.com/_includes/product-photos/3524.jpg

fiddleback
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/e2/ff/3e/e2ff3e7676474a052a6ee1ffa6a739aa.jpg

Chris in woodworking terminology I think you will find that all 3 of these definitions are now combined into curly figure. I have always wondered why the differentiation anyway. I think I read that in Popular Woodworking, not sure who the authoritative author was.
 
Odie, I personally love the extra color that developed from the mold. I have had some magnolia do this and create a stunning gray pattern like yours throughout the piece. It sold immediately. What the mold does is not the same as spalting, but similar, it seems to stain certain area of the grain patterns in unique ways.
 
Chris in woodworking terminology I think you will find that all 3 of these definitions are now combined into curly figure. I have always wondered why the differentiation anyway. I think I read that in Popular Woodworking, not sure who the authoritative author was.

Yes, that's pretty much the way I've come to evolve on the definitions as applied to maple......but, every time this subject comes up, there seems to be some disagreement about it. In the end, it doesn't really matter much, but I've come to conclude that the word "fiddleback" may have a little more weight as a "buzzword" to prospective buyers. The word can be used to create a mental image that leads me to believe it can be used as a sales tool.....whether or not it's applied absolutely correctly. (That's strictly an opinion on my part.....)

ko
 
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Odie, I personally love the extra color that developed from the mold. I have had some magnolia do this and create a stunning gray pattern like yours throughout the piece. It sold immediately. What the mold does is not the same as spalting, but similar, it seems to stain certain area of the grain patterns in unique ways.

Hi Breck......haven't heard from you for awhile! 😀

Looks like we were typing at the same time!

Yes, my reaction to the discoloration in this piece is entirely different than I was expecting......I was expecting something that looked ugly to the eye!

Just checked out your web page.....and, as always, like the current work you are doing. 😀

ko
 
W
hy not, Charlie????

sort of know it when I see it......black line spalting is the most saught after......usually is a mix of spault.......spaulting is a rotting of the wood, extreme cases the wood gets punky, mold or mildew is a same color distortion of the wood (stain)usually grey but can be dark as in other color

at one time it was frowned upon to turn spalted wood, as usually its dependant on what the turner sees......to me its time to get the mineral spirits out and take the finish off, resand, and decide what to do from there.....other people may like it, but the orginal question was is this mildew and is it ok

rotting verses stain

a lot of time the spaulting happens in the sapwood as in oak, this case the mold is in the heartwood and sapwood
 
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In reading the last post I thought of something we have not discussed in the issue of spault-mold-mildew. Spault is caused by a fungus, Mold is a specialized type of fungi and not all caused by the same type. Mildew is also caused by a fungus.
I have had that blue-gray color in magnolia as well as black spault lines in the same piece. Looks good , just hard to get reduced tearout. Oh, the extra ting is to be sure to wear good dust protection as these things are nasty in the dark moist area of our lungs.
Odie I like the look of the piece and I have been turning a lot of spaulted pieces lately to get it off the pile before it is too far gone.
 
2 kinds of "spaulting

I took these pictures a few weeks ago to reply to Jamie's inquiries about spalting. Too much work that supports my turning "habit" got in the way. The first 2 pics are smallish bowls from firewood stored in 8 foot log lengths for 3 years in my front yard. They were stacked up to 8-10 feet high during the 3 years (off the ground). Each year the spalting got better and better.DSCN1959 (640x360).jpgDSCN1962 (640x360).jpg\

The latter 2 are from the black "smudge" (vs lines) spalted soft maple from Massachusetts obtained last fall. Had been lying in field for 6-8 months. DSCN1961 (640x360).jpgDSCN1960 (640x360).jpg. Didn't know how they would turn out but I like the black "smudge"

Well I see the pictures got swapped and I don't know how to reverse them. The first and 4th picture are different batches of product. the second and 3rd are same 3 bowls from different view. Gretch
 
#1 & #4 the black line spaulting to my eye is 100% better

I agree with odie......great coffer table.....what type of wood is it???????????
 
Well, you can look up Dr. Spalt, Sari Robertson. Some types of it are black likes, some appear to be smudges, there can be a rainbow of colors. The fungi that cause the spalting are designed to digest plant material, not people. Some of the things on the forest floor that are not for wood, can do harm to people. If you ever get the chance to see her, do so. One of the most interesting demos I have ever seen.

http://www.northernspalting.com/about-me/

robo hippy
 
#1 & #4 the black line spaulting to my eye is 100% better

I agree with odie......great coffer table.....what type of wood is it???????????

3-4 years ago while at the west coast of Mich (Leland) visiting relatives, there was a new store that just opened. Sign said 50% off wood items. off course I dropped every thing to go there!!!! Went in and there were trays, carved handled bowls and 2 coffee tables. This is "shan mu tree". Looked it up and was ? forget now, but southern asia. . I got the table for $275. and frankly it was a steal. I love it-sort of my personality. The base is a convoluted or uneven diameter trunk. Also bought some tray and carved bowls (burlish) for gifts, and one for Gretch.
 
the wood is beautiful and the shape is distinct....ya got a steal
 
the wood is beautiful and the shape is distinct....ya got a steal
Here are pictures of the table alon. The other included was a smaller table I got at an "antique" store last summer. It had just been reduced by the artist to $75 -black walnut, Had no room for it except for my 3 seasons room which is in disarray now converting from winter firewood storage to gardening stuff. 3 days of clear weather and to get to 75 -I am in heaven

DSCN1977.JPGDSCN1978 (640x360).jpgDSCN1981 (640x360).jpgDSCN1980 (640x360).jpg
 
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