Router bit for segments???

[Chuck Wood]

Hi All,

I was minding my own business the other day looking through one of my 1000s of tool catalogs I receive in the mail and came across a multi-sided glue joint router bit. It dawned on me that maybe I could use this bit to make segments. Thinking further, I know there are several other degree angles available, which might be helpful on the router table to make about any number of segments I would ever want. Might be easier than cross cutting each segment on a table saw. Just wondering: anybody ever tried this?

Thanks,
Chuck

http://eagleamerica.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_190-2865

Hope this hyper-link works.

 

[blackhorse]

I'm not very good at visualization, but it seems to me that as you turn such a ring, you would gradually epose end grain next to side grain because of the angle. Does that make sense?

Joe

 

[underdog]

It seems to me that you'd get a little end grain exposed, even if you used the traditional segmenting method. You'd just get a little more end grain on one end of each piece using this router bit.

I end grain turned some laminated pieces on Saturday and Sunday, and other than having to sand it a lot cuz I can't get my scrapers sharp, they turned out great.

But I do think the end grain might be a problem as you're cutting that angle with the router bit. You'll need to use a "backer piece" to prevent blowout on the end of the cut (end grain!) while cutting with the router bit.

But if it makes it easier, I'd go for it.

 

[n7bsn]

Chuck, when I read the thread title, I went "why not", then I saw which bit you were talking about, which was not the type I visualized when I read the title.

What I was thinking of is this type, particularly the model 152-0205.
This has the advantage of having a bearing for the (outside) wood to ride on.
---edit---
Additional Bit
Woodworkers Supply P/N 115-565 gives 16 segments, but limits the wood to 1" (thick)

TTFN
Ralph

 

[pencheff]

It dawned on me that maybe I could use this bit to make segments.
...
Might be easier than cross cutting each segment on a table saw.

So you start with a piece of lumber 3/4" x 1 1/4 x 36". You use your handy dandy 22 1/2° router bit to put the perfect bevel on the first end. Great! Dead on miter. No fooling around with a miter gauge on the tablesaw.

Okay, you now have to cut a 1" long piece off the end you just routed, turn it around and route another perfect 22 1/2° bevel on the other end to make one segment. How are you going to hold that little bitty 1" long chunk of wood while you route the opposite end?

Or were you were envisioning some other method?

 

[n7bsn]

So you start with a piece of lumber 3/4" x 1 1/4 x 36". You use your handy dandy 22 1/2° router bit to put the perfect bevel on the first end. Great! Dead on miter. No fooling around with a miter gauge on the tablesaw. ....

Or were you were envisioning some other method?

You route the LONG dimension, on both sides, then cut to length.

 

[Richard Baker]

You still have to cut a perfect 90 on the other end. And you're limited in segment width. Seems like extra expense and effort. Easier to build and "tune" a plywood sled for the table saw. Just a thought.

 

[n7bsn]

You still have to cut a perfect 90 on the other end.

Miter saw?, or sand flat with a platform drum sander, or...

And you're limited in segment width. .....

Well, yes there would be a minimum width, based on some router work I've done, probably 1/2(narrow side), or probably 3/4 (wide side). Which would be what... about a 4 inch diameter assembly. Max would probably be more limited by the lathe then the router setup.

This method would limit you to (from the bits I have seen so far) to 8, 12 and 16 segments. But, these angled segments could be supplemented with staight.

Just on the face off it, I have yet to visualize a show-stopper. Plus I already have all the tools to try it (well, except for the lathe... the new one is till on it's way)

TTFN
Ralph

 

[Chuck Wood]

I was thinking along the same lines as n7bsn: route both sides length wise of a predetermined width of wood to what ever degreed angle needed for number of sides then cross-cut on the miter saw. Why not? Or am I still missing something? Then you could create supplemental rings the 'traditional' way if desired.
There are two types of bits I had in mind: first those special bits that produce the 90 degree glue joint which is cut at an angle, and second the standard bits with different degreed angles. Neither would really need a guide bearing since it would be used on the router table.

 

[Captain Eddie]

I've got a few of those bits from Woodcraft and have used them to make staves instead of segments. Staves, like in barrel construction. I've used them in birdhouses, bowls, etc. I have a jig which allows me to make a tapered stave and end up with a tapered bowl blank.

 

[pencheff]

I was thinking along the same lines as n7bsn: route both sides length wise of a predetermined width of wood to what ever degreed angle needed for number of sides then

Would you be routing the end grain then? I understand what you have in mind now, just trying to make it fit with the standard segmented turning process where the long grain of each segment runs horizontally. If you use the angled bit to bevel the long grain then the long grain in each segment will be running vertically. Or am I still missing what you have in mind?

I can see using these bits to make staves like Captian Eddie mentioned. My dad made tons of barrels, buckets, flower pots, planters, etc using that method, both straight staves and tapered, but he just used a table saw to cut the bevel.

 

[Chuck Wood]

Pen / All,

After drawing it in a picture so I could visualize, the long grain would end up being vertical, glue joints would be long grain and top of resultant ring would be end grain. You're right, they would be staves. I could do that on a table saw. This still leaves my original thought with the multi-sided bits producing the angled 90-degree glue joint (attached I hope). And here is a drawing with idea using router table (attached I hope).

 

[pencheff]

After drawing it in a picture so I could visualize, the long grain would end up being vertical, glue joints would be long grain and top of resultant ring would be end grain

Right, now we're on the same page. The only reason I'm playing devil's advocate here is because I've been toying with the same idea... using a precision ground router bit to create segment angles for me. I've done a few simple segmented turnings with 6, 12 and 24 segments. The biggest hassle is setting that miter gauge precisely to make the tablesaw cuts.

The only problem I see with your idea of having the end grain on top and bottom of the segment rings is you'd then be gluing rings together end grain to end grain. That wouldn't be very strong and I'd be afraid of the whole thing coming apart if you get a dramatic catch while turning.

Taking your same idea, if you cross cut your lumber into short pieces that are the desired segment length, then you could use the router bit to put the bevel on the end grain of each of these pieces, rip the pieces into the segment ring height you desire. Then when you assemble the rings you'd have long grain on tops and bottoms of the rings making for a very strong glue joint when assembling the rings.

 

[Walt]

It seems to me that it would have some appeal. It could be used on some type of segmented bowls, but not all. Some of my segments are as small as .25" square on the long side. In this case it would not be a good idea. But if the application fits, use it.

Walt