RIT Fabric Dye - How?

[Bob Salvetti]

Just back from the grocery with some RIT fabric dye.
Been wanting to try out on some wood turnings and now I'm one step closer. Any suggestions on how to mix - how much? with water? with alcohol?
Any other cautions? etc., etc., etc.
What finishes before / after application?

Many thanks for sharing your experiences.

Bob in Georgia. 😉

 

[ian upwood]

rit dye

if you look on the inside of the pkg it tells you how to mix for wood dying. My experience is that mixed with alcohol will not raise the grain as water does.

 

[waltben]

I wouldn't put anything you use Rit on in sunlight or under florescent lighting for long. My wife's experience is that none of their dyes are all that permanent. There's several other brands that will last much longer, especially when used with alcohol.

 

[gary rock]

Bob

I use Ritz dye mixed with acohol or acetone ( I use thei with all my dye mixing). Both won't raise the grain like water will. Usually I pour about 2 oz. or either liquid into a jar then add the dye to the color that I want. Have found the the liquid dye will mix and have some seperation between the dye and the additive. If using a brush ( foam or bristle) all you need to do is shake the jar just before inserting the brush. Also if using the powder, ther will be some settlement in the bottom of the jar. If using an air brush, you need to filter the liquid so it won't clog the jet on the air brush. Have had good luck with either the powder form or the liquid.

I let it dry for a day or two depending on how busy that I am, then start the finishing process. If the piece has open pores like Ash or Elm and planning on using Liming wax, then the first coat is Danish Oil. And a couple days later apply the Liming wax, then Danish Oil, using cleaning patces to remove the wax. Depending on the size of the piece, it may take as few as 6 up 24 (or more) to remove the liming wax. You only work in small patches on the piece such as 1 1/2 circles doing this around the whole piece. Afterwards wipe it down with a paper towel, set it aside for a couple of days to a week then start applying the Wipe-on-poly, (rubbing down with either steel wool or artificial wool between coats) usually 5 coats to 8. Then, if I think it needs it will buff the piece. Dispose of the cleaning patches by letting them dry out before feeding them to the garbage can.

Gary:cool2:

 

[Hugh]

I do not think I would use Rit dye on any wood project. I do not believe it is light fast as has been brought up. Go to Dharma Trading Co., San Rafael, CA web site and check out the fiber reactive dyes they carry. I have used them and they seem to be light fast. Dharma does sell on line I believe. I use them once in awhile and just use water. Yes it does raise the grain, but a quick sanding with a very fine grit sand paper gets rid of that. I have used it in a liquid form and also a more paste like form - just brushing it on - I have also used it through an air brush - experiment a bit on some throw away wood.

This is going to age me .......but way back when - we used to make tie dyed T-shirts and such. I tried the Rit dye - and it just faded very quickly and did not last. Tried the fiber reactive dye and the color lasted. 😀😀😀

You might do a search on this forum as I believe there has been some discussion about this earlier.
Hugh

 

[Odie]

Quick question:

How deeply will the dye absorb into the wood?

Reason I ask, is the thought of dying, and then turning, or cutting away the wood and expecting a clean separation from the dyed surface and the freshly cut surface........does this work?

thanks

ooc

 

[Bill Boehme]

Quick question:

How deeply will the dye absorb into the wood?

Reason I ask, is the thought of dying, and then turning, or cutting away the wood and expecting a clean separation from the dyed surface and the freshly cut surface........does this work?

thanks

ooc

You really can't count on a particular depth of penetration other than it is not very deep in most cases. However, if the wood is soft and especially if a bit punky, it can go very deep.

I use TransTint metallic dyes on figured soft maple to enhance the texture. The degree of penetration depends a lot on the figure, but it isn't more than a few thousandths of an inch. I don't soak the wood, I just lightly wipe it with a rag or paper towel that has been wetted with the dye. The way that I apply it, only light sanding with 400P sandpaper is enough to cut back to mostly bare wood.

 

[Mark Mandell]

TransTint dues are metalized and light-fast.

http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.com/

For turning, use the pre-dissolved alcohol concentrate, diluted with DNA. This can be applied by spray, wipe, brush or immersion. Penetration will vary from face grain to end grain, summer to winter growth. Don't forget the gloves and apron!

Regardless of the carrier (alcohol or water), you should plan on sealing with a spit-coat of dewaxed shellac to prevent leaching into the finish layer.

Just a note on Rit. If the stuff is separating in the mix jar, your alcohol is not dissolving the powder, only wetting it. The dye particles will not penetrate the wood that way, but rather just sit on the surface like other pigment stains.

 

[Mike Brazeau]

Method from our newsletter 2003

In 2003 Leon Michaels of the Woodturners Guild of Ontario did a demo at our Golden Horseshoe Woodturners Guild using Dylon Fabric Dyes which are from the UK and small solid pucks. It is written up in our April 2003 Chip Flyer at http://www.ghwg.ca/chip/78_nl_apr_03.pdf Leon was very entertaining, but has unfortunately gone on the place where all wood is good and a never ending supply.

 

[ebrannon]

my experience with wood dyes

I have been experimenting with wood dyes for the past year. Here are some tips:

1. Alcohol based dies will penetrate deeper than water based. I find Behlen dyes the best. To answer Odie's question, they can penetrate deeply depending on the vascular system (I died the outside of a 1/2" thick Maple Bowl and the inside had black dots.
2. Creating sharp edges is tricky, but can be done by sequencing finishes. For example, I wanted a natural finish inside the bowl rolling out to a deep dyed exterior. To get a crisp line, I finished the inside and rim and put on wipe on poly. Reversed the bowl on van or jam chuck, I re-cut the edge sharp and sanded. Put on dye on the outside and let dry over night. Coated with wipe on poly and I had a sharp edge.
3. You can create interesting patina finishes by layer the dyes. I put a red dye first and let it dry for a few minutes. Then a black dye over it. After 24 hours, you can use a buffing wheel to polish and take off some of the black exposing the red. With careful buffing, you can create different effects, including removing all of the dye in places to expose the natural wood surface.
4. Wear good Nutril or Vinyl gloves. It dyes your fingers as well. I often look like I just voted in an Iraq election with black finger tips.
5. If I am finishing with oil, I can do it as soon as the dye is dry to the touch. Some comes off, but not much. If I am using a poly or other finish, best to let the dye dry overnight. Then finish.
6. When using dyes, every tear out or imperfection in the surface will stick out like a sore thumb. Make sure to take time to sand out all tear out otherwise it will pick up the dye and you won't be happy. Even when using jet black.
7. I also use dye in combination with milk paint. For example, I paint a piece with black milk paint. Buff it to remove some of the paint, then over wipe with a dye, buff again, and see what happens. Often, layering dyes creates interesting effects and surfaces.
8. If I have interesting grain or figuring, I do not use dye. The plainer the wood, the more I use dye to add interest.

Like anything, practice and experimentation leads to discovery.