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rim chucks

Funny thing about specialized applications chucks; they're good for certain projects but not for all projects. When you need a rim chuck there's nothing else that I know of that will do the job that this chuck can do. This rim chuck design is really quite well known (commonly known as the Longworth Chuck) and you can, in fact, find a variety of sites that offer instructions on how to make one yourself.
It is, IMHO, an improvement on the cole jaw adapter to the Nova chuck but I wouldn't pay the $250+ price to buy one when I can make it for considerably less money.
 
Google Longworth Chuck

Herb, I made two Longworth Chucks out of 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood. Both work perfectly, and I wouldn't trade them for any other chuck for turning bottoms of bowls/platters/etc.
Google Longworth Chuck, and you'll find a fine set of plans on Fred Holder's Website.
It'll cost you a sheet of plywood, and some bolts with wingnuts.
The first one is shown using Vinyl tubing for buttons. On the second one, I used white rubber cane tips, filled with 1/4"i.d. vinyl tubing for strength, for the buttons. They're tapered, and I've never lost a bowl.
I also made a hardwood faceplate that mounts in my SuperNova2 Chuck.
Go for it! 🙂
 

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Think about a vacuum chucking system....

herb said:
Hi,

I saw an ad for a rim chuck at chickandduckmfg.com. Wonder if anyone has experience or can suggest a better option?

Herb
Click to expand...

Herb:

I saw the 'Chick and Duck' rim chuck (...which is actually made by two guys who started this business, named Dick and Chuck) demonstrated at the AAW Symposium in Portland last summer - I can tell you that it is pretty well built (aluminum plates, good machining, easy mounting to the lathe, etc.) but I got the impression that mounting the bowls is a bit cumbersome (.....like needing three hands to work the levers and tighten a retaining nut, while keeping the bowl in place!), and I can't see any significant deisgn improvements over a Longworth Chuck (mentioned above) or "cole jaws" fitted to a scroll chuck's jaws.

I have a set of reversing "rim" jaws for my Vicmarc VM100 chuck, which work fine, however I haven't used them in nearly 2 years. For the amount of money you're talking about for the chick and duck rim jaws, you'd be well on your way to setting up a vacuum chucking system which is what I would recommend if your lathe will permit its use. Everyone I know who has a vacuum chucking system really loves it, and lives by the motto:

"Once you go vac, you'll never go back!"

Just some food for thought.....

Rob
 
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I'm hesitant to offer negative comments about an AAW advertiser, but here goes anyway:

According to one review (can't remember where), Dick and Chuck developed their device without knowledge of the Longworth. I think they missed the boat somewhat by making their arcs in the pattern they used. The arcs cross at a steeper angle than the Longworth, and thus the need for the rim pliers and the locking nut at the hub. I consider the Longworth superior in that regard.

Here's three that I made: http://n-fl-woodturners.org/images/2007-07/2007-07-09.jpg
Six buttons are easier to lay out than 4 or 8, because you can use a compass alone. The 4-button version places too much concentrated force on the rim of a thin-walled bowl (discovered the hard way), but it's still useful for rosettes larger than available with standard rosette cutters. I probably used more holes than needed in the front disk, but I drilled half-holes in the rim of the back disk for one-handed adjustment (thumb and forefinger). With tailstock assist for centering, I tighten the wing nuts working across the diameter instead of around the perimeter (similar to the sequence of tightening the lug nuts on a car wheel). This seems to center the piece better. The buttons are rubber bumpers from the Borg. The HDPE washers were DIY, as was the HDPE itself (empty milk bottles via my oven).

This type of chuck is used principally for finishing the bottom of a bowl. I think I once used it for something else, but I can't remember what.

Joe
 
Better option for what? As a chuck guaranteed to have no gaps in coverage like those Cole jaws, and strong grip with the steep angle and scissor grab as mentioned to apply it, it's merely an overpriced gadget to a hobby turner, which is what hobby turning is about. Latest and most high-tech for bragging purposes, and a convenience where used.

Production types might appreciate it as a bit less fussy than a vacuum chuck for bottoming, especially on porous or poorly filled woods, or as a chuck able to grip the bottom of a box for lid fitting and sanding, or for holding the lid for finial truing without digging in. There are workarounds, of course, but it's probably worth mentioning a couple other obvious uses for the device.

Guess it depends on you. It'll do more than even I have suggested, even things you can't do with a vacuum chuck in the reverse area. Now decide if you want to spend the money. Brag or bang, both good reasons, in perspective.
 
It does look to be well made, and you can make a Longworth chuck yourself, but I'm hooked on vacuum chucking. I'd purchased a set of Cole jaws for my Nova way back and they've sat unused ever since I hooked up the plumbing. I opted for a Gast constant duty pump that holds zebrawood and other porous stuff quite well. I use the Oneway aluminum vacuum chucks and had a problem with their thin gaskets and warped wood. I put a 1/8" thick closed cell foam gasket on my 5" and it's held everything I've come across thus far. Neither the Longworth or Chick & Duck will do warped pieces well

When I started doing some oval turning a year ago, I found I couldn't use vacuum through my oval chuck and the Cole jaws weren't stout enough. Had to get a Vicmarc 120 and their bowl jaws (heavyweight square buttons) for the VOD, but that's the only time I use them.
 
I have to agree with Joe on the relative merits of that as opposed to the Longworth (I like the 6 and 8 point Longworths, not the 4 point)

Also Alan Lacer has a great article on a type of donut chuck in the new issue
 
Both discs on a Longworth could be about 3/4" thick, so that one could drill regularly spaced radial holes in both discs, say, 1/4" holes x 1" deep. While holding the workpiece with one hand, one tightens the chuck with the other hand, using pins in the radial holes. One then switches hands and tightens the wingnuts on the back. The finger holes are still good for getting the chuck in about the right place to start. That's how mine works.
 
I asked about this a couple months ago...

...And the general consensus was that a vacume chuck trumps the Rim-Chuck/Longworth Chuck, but for those without a vacume chuck; a longworth trumps the Rim-Chuck in cost savings, especially if you do it yourself.

On another note, I don't think the Rim-Chucks are being manufactured anymore, as I believe the father in the "Father - Son Business" passed away.

...just my $.02...
 
As far as unimpeded working on, and finishing the bottom / foot of a turning goes, an easy to make Donut Chuck works very well, and turnings do not try to orbit around inside the shop after the little buttons give up their grip. Of course, it helps if the piece has a reasonably even top and no bark (but even that is not insurmountable).
My DIY Vacuum Chuck is nearly ready to test drive, and I might like it more than the Donut Chuck (until the first time we loose power with it in use).
 
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